How bad is my rust?

x2...thank god I live in the desert

 

I have heard, Waxoyl does a good job protecting from rust for those that dare to still live up north. Here is a link where I know to get it, because I had a Disco II before:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/m-19-waxoyl.aspx

Hope this helps.

 

that is pretty bad, mine is actually worse than that. i used chassis saver on my frame the best i could get at it and its rusting right back thru.

 

That rust is bad. I am not sure how anyone can justify that rust and say there is not a problem and still look at themselves in the mirror with any integrity. You need to get that documented by the dealership and then an independent bodyshop. Keep a record of everything you have done so far and moving forward to try and save the frame. When it finally fails you will need all this to force Toyota to step up to the plate and do what they should have done after the first recall and make it right.

 

x2. Depends on how the previous owner kept up on getting the salt off and how the rust proofing was done.

Words of wisdom: Rust proof and maintain from brand new if you buy used rusty good luck fighting the problem - Rustoleum makes products to help - or spray the sucka down with WD40 by the gallon a couple times a year in the salt belt to slow and prohibit rust. Something I've done for 20 years on my vehicles. Live and learn, its a constant battle with everything - trailers, snowmobiles, atvs, cars, and trucks!

If the trucks were built to last forever, Toyota would have future revenue issues from owners not needing to upgrade. Could Yota have rustproofed right off the lot for you? Yes, but its your choice at the Dealer when you buy new and Opt for the rustproof package they offer..mine looks brand new after 2 winters in the Fricken Salt World I live in here in Northern WI. I choose to get the package and bring it in once a year to get touched -up, and I realized the future value that it had on protecting my purchase. Unfortunately the person who bought yours new did not do that - that does not look undercoated properly to me - sorry.

Basically you have 2 choices either try and fix the problem or sell the truck and start off fresh knowing what you now know.

 

Looks like just surface rust. Not to be a dick but my 96 GM Sierra has less. Must just be different weather conditions.

 

well when i get some time, I will scrub the crap out of it, but in person the rust looks different then in pics, it looks like its eating its way from the inside out, its bubbling and bumping.

Does anyone know of a good product to use to scrub off the rust?

 

WOW that is crazy, my 1998 Nissan Frontier has little to no rust on the frame or on the springs, etc. I looked underneath my Tacoma and did see tiny hints of rust here and there but just told myself it is normal.

I don't think our weather could cause rust problems so I hope that what I have IS indeed normal.

By the way, that is a very nice looking truck, looks like you take care of it pretty good.

 

Most likely the cause of that is the previous owner did not prep the surface correctly before painting.

Wirebrush, wire wheel on a cordless drill, sandpaper, whatever it takes. get the welds extra good, the rust to metal stuff takes care of the rest..get creative in what you use and how you get it off..and wear a mask and eye protection...your gona get dirty. Get right in there and grind that shit off.

 

I dont live in any areas where the roads are salted, but all this talk about rust has me worried. I was thinking of getting the spray on bedliner material sprayed on almost every part of the frame and undercarriage. Now i know some places have told me they do undercoating not bedliner on the frame and undercarriage. Whats the difference and wouldn't bedliner material be better?

 

Don't know about other places, but here in the Northeast, they supposedly switched to an especially corrosive (because it is 'cheaper') mix in many areas over the last 3-5 years. (Thanks for that) My understanding is that the brake shops (etc) can attest to the more aggressive corrosion due to the more recent mix.

This obviously adds to our expense in trying to deal with the resulting corrosion. This also makes comparisons to how vehicles rusted years ago suspect. Vehicles driven in like conditions for similar lengths of time would be the only useful comparable.

 

i would go with a coating that was made for your under carriage, who ever coated mine did it with be liner by the look of how thick it is, seems to me like it just holds more moisture in.

 

Its that crazy liquid they pour on the road before snow, and they add something to salt sand mixture. it takes out snow ice in matter of minutes but I can only imagine how well helps rust

 

I've heard about the liner holding moisture in but then they also advertise it as preventing rust if you have a metal truck bed, like on a chevy. Plus if the stuff is just about everything proof, dont see how it will hold moisture.

 

its its not perfectly sealed moisture can get in between the coating and the metal, then it just holds it there.

 

This is true of any rubberized undercoating products. I was told that it is ill-advised to use them on bare metal. Supposedly one small perforation can allow moisture to enter and rust it sight unseen.

I did do a test on one of the painted legs of my rock sliders with 3M™ Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating. I have to say that it seemed to make a very durable surface. It's main ingredients are: calcium carbonate, asphalt, toluene, and propane.

A few months ago I consulted a competent body shop to find out the best way to protect certain parts of the trucks frame. I got a recommendation to use cavity wax for the section of the boxed frame in the front where paint can not be applied.

 

Ouch! My old 97 Subaru spent 10 years in the Ontario salt belt driving on the 401 and it looked cleaner than that!

I had the car treated with Krown every year, tho I have found since I moved to Manitoba that the company does not operate out here

 

mine is bad kinda im in northern ohio.....i just hit the whole underneathe with used oil in a bug sprayer.....i will do this once a year maybe twice im not worried

 

I do the annual fall spray with a product called 'Carwell',which appears to be the equivalent of your 'Crown'.

Kind of a waxy oil application that supposedly continues to creep into nooks and crannies and displaces moisture where it lurks. Stuff drips out of the doors and tailgate weep holes on hot days throughout the year.

Mine was sprayed (new) before it ever saw the salt, and will continue to be each fall.

 

How much does that annual treatment cost? Does it work?