Vagabond Drifter Camper Buildout and Mods

Why did you go with the waterport mounted to the inside rather than outside?

 

You can reach that?!
The under 5’6” crowd is collectively jealous.

 

I'm 6'2 lol.

I'm hoping I can reach it from the bed position as well

 

It’s there temporarily until I can build it into a shelf. The idea is I’ll have access to it from both the outside (through the windoors) and inside if necessary.

Edit: also, there’s no place for this thing on the outside.

 

Yea thats the reason I got rid of my road shower and getting a water tank instead.

I’d def hold back on mobbing the truck until you have the cabinet so that the waterport doesnt rip your bed rails.

 

Lol! Yeah I was feeling that right when I hung it there. It’s only there for Expo for showering.

 

How is everyone managing electrical?

I'm now looking at an additional set of lights, Propex heater, LP + Carbon Monoxide alarm, water pump etc. for the Drifter that need juice. I already have a dual 12v port routed to the bed, fused in the engine bay. Is anybody setting up a secondary fuse panel for the bed? Or just running more wire to the engine bay?

 

Early on I had @ProForce wire in some direct battery power with 12v and USB ports. Fuse box is in the driver’s side cubby. I have a water pump in a portable ammo can that will work for the sink. I also use a goal zero yeti 400 in the bed of the truck. That’s fed by the solar panel and powers the fridge full-time.

I do believe there are options for the Vagabond models to add power.

Hope this helps give you some ideas!

 

Your Yeti 400 powers your fridge no problem?

 

24/7 as long as the 100w panel gets sun or I switch to the oem bed power outlet while driving. It’ll run down the power source after about two days with no energy feed to the gz. Haven’t had any issues thus far in all my travels. As long as the source is true SINE (which the gz is), you’re good to go.

FWIW I’ve had the gz for years so I never needed to run a dual battery. I wouldn’t suggest someone choosing the gz to purchase over a dual batt though. $$$$$

 

Ah I see, you have a house battery in back. My solar and power (starter+house battery) is in the engine bay, so without adding a second house battery... i need to get more power to the rear. Time to read up on gauged wire, breakers and fuses...

 

I don’t have a battery in back. Just power wired direct from house batt.

 

doh i was referring/confused by the solar + yeti goal zero setup. the solar i have will power the house in the engine bay, so still need to run some wire...

 

The yeti 400 can burn 80% of capacity w/o any ill effects because lithium. Likewise the CFX50 only burns 27ish watts per hour. Almost 12hrs of runtime. With solar or engine the entire day, and the night only needing to come on periodically, the system is good to go. It's a lot less than my EdgeStar, I swear that thing is like 60 or 70 watts.

I bet an AGM 27F or Group 34 would be able to last 17hrs, no problem.

 

Here’s what I’m working on so far


This will be on the rear driver corner panel. Going to connect the fuse panel to the second battery. Also on the second battery is (2) 100 watt solar panels

 

Same thing here, had an indel b which was great but wanted dual zone. Upgraded to the dometic dual zone and was real happy with it as well.

 

YES. same page amigo

 

PO wired up a triple battery setup as he kept a 4WC full time in the bed. Power is wired to the bed on the drivers side with an Anderson plug. Beyond that I haven't thought much about power yet besides looking at some solar options.

 

Those panels are awesome.

 

blue seas circuit wizard is helpful. There is also a thread on diy bussman on tacomaworld that is very helpful (loads of info) even if you dont use a bussman or diy.