Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

Mine is a sport that shares the resi w/the brakes. Okay, so I'll just clamp off the soft inlet line, remove lines from old master, bolt in new master, attach lines, bleed clutch?

 

Yep. When you are done, follow the steps for setting the pedal height and free play to save your throw-out / release bearing.

 

I think I can handle that. What had happened was, a week ago, there was creaking and popping coming from the master under the pedal. Yesterday the master would not push back to it's fully extended position. I tried to bleed it and now, I think, the master cannot pressurize the system and the pedal is just barely enough to get it in gear. I had a helper to bleed it.
Sounds like the master crapped out on me, right?

 

I edited my post (it didn't make your quote in time) to be sure to set it up when done.

It is hard to say. I never had a master / slave problem on any of our MTs. Only on my motorcycles.

It could be your slave. You can get noises up top from problems at the end. Do you see any fluid around either the master or slave? Look under the seal boots. I'd look closely at the slave as it is more likely to cause problems due to heat and exposure.

There is a section in the SM about rebuilding the slave as an option.

 

There's no fluid at all at master or slave. I was just thinking master because that's where the bad noises started.

 

Interesting. That could be. In the end, if you swap the master and still have the problem, you only have the slave left (or the pivot / fork). If you can get it working with some pumping, then the pivot and fork should be good to go.

It's hard to diagnose over the internet. But then, throwing parts at it is less costly than a shop.

 

The Clutch Pedal making sounds like an old barn door is pretty common issue solved with some disc brake grease. Your issue may or not be the clutch m/c.

 

I agree for the noise, but that won't address with lack of throw noted in Post 8075?

 

After trying to bleed the clutch, the pedal is unable to build any pressure, well just enough to be able to pop it in gear.

 

Totally agree.

 

I just picked up a new master and it seems my old master is broken. The new one is spring loaded to extend back to its resting position. My old one can't do that, as if the spring is broken inside. Unless it's a piston or something stuck that is not allowing it to spring back.

 

That is a definite possibility. The spring fragments might have fouled both the piston seal and the bore.

I had that problem with the hydraulic master on my mountain bike. I was stupid and waited to long. The manufacturer (Hayes) stopped making rebuild kits. It was new in 2000 and I tried to get a kit in 2016. That is just nuts, IMO.

 

The noise it first started making definitely sounded like a spring inside. I guess I'll find out tonight, when I attempt this.

 

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

 

Will do. I also have a slave rebuild kit on order. It was backordered in HI.

 

I have a hand shaker in my 96 4x4 Xcab and I love the short throw shifter I installed. That might be a little ricey but I don't care and I wouldn't have it any other way!

 

Make sure you check the hose too!

 

Is anyone else having issues getting it into 1st from neutral? Maybe happens 1 out of 50 shifts. Normaly I feel two notches shifting into first but sometimes it will only notch once like it's halfway in gear.

 

While moving with the factory fluid? Yes. There are triple syncro cones on 1st and, I think, 2nd gears. It takes a while for all three cones to break in.

After about 500mi on Redline MT-90, this has all but disappeared.

 

It's always from a stop. Moving im always in second. I can crawl around at 4 mph in 2nd smoother then 1st, and 1st gear is so short I only use it to get moving. Easy to flush and replace gear oil? I've heard good things about redline but I've always been an amsoil guy.