Why is my Cylinder 2 Misfiring?

I think you have a burnt valve. I was doing the same thing with my 00 Taco 2.4l. Replace spark plugs, wires and coil packs. Ran better but after a very short time the misfire code would come back. You need to do a leak down test on the head. But my guess is you need a valve job with a head gasket.

 

Turns out you are right. Had a compression test done and cylinder 2 is only putting out 100psi. Needs a new engine or rebuild. I don't know what I'm going to do now. Im so fucked.

 

what are the others?

 

all within 2% of each other, mechanic didn't tell me PSI on others. Just that they we're all running well.

 

Do a valve job. I got the same treatment from a tech.(197k miles) Said replace the engine or get rid of it. I went to another tech and we pulled off the head.
We could see the Valve is burnt. So I replaced all the intake and exhaust valves and the other Misc parts, and the stem seals. Send the head out to the machine shop to have it put back into a complete head. I replaced the head gasket just because the head was off. Also replaced the water pump and the fuel filter. And after that she runs like a champ!!

 

I had the same thing happen to mine last year. $3K later and I just finished my new engine swap. Maybe start calling the wrecking yards for a used engine. Or just a rebuilt head as you have lower miles.

 

If it ends up being injectors I have four stock ones I took of my truck about a month the ago I'd sell you.

 

I think this is what I'll do. Problem is, removing the head seems like just too big of a job for me. I can remove all air intake components and manifold, as well as exhaust manifold and fuel rail. But I don't know how to remove the cam shaft or timing chain without messing things up to remove the cylinder head. Is it possible that I could just need a valve adjustment? One mechanic is telling me that I should do that before having the head sent off to be rebuilt.

 

Is there any way of testing for a burnt valve? Would a leak down test confirm if a valve is burnt or not? I don't want to pay a mechanic to do a valve adjustment and then learn that it was a waste because a valve is actually burnt/cracked.

 

Some old timers say to hold a dollar up to the tail pipe and if it gets sucked in towards the pipe then there's a burned valve.

 

Normally when a valve is burnt/or missing a piece is because the valves Have NOT been adjusted.

 

One mechanic is telling me that my best option is to adjust the valves and see if that restores the compression issue with the cylinder before I actually pull the head and see if there is a burnt valve. Is this a smart option? He estimated me at $400 to do a valve adjustment and said it could take a week because he'd probably have to order the shims to his shop.

My reservation is spending all that money on an adjustment and then it just being a waste because there is a burnt valve after all.

 

this was the only photo I found that I took when the head was off.

 

I believe this failed because there was never a adjustment.

 

Mechanic is going to run a leak down test in the morning and determine if it’s a valve issue or a piston problem. He’s starting to think that it could be a piston issue and the truck needs a new engine because blue smoke is coming out of the tailpipe, showing that it’s burning oil.

 

Ok. Keep us updated. With the mileage being so low I would pull the head off and inspect. That's only if you have time and another car to use.