Alignment sheet - am i ok?

How do these figures look? Just curious. This was after installing LRO 3/1 leveling kit.

 

No .
You should be +2.5 and up for caster.
0 toe 0 camber

 

can stock UCAs get that much caster?

 

That's definitely the ideal settings but he'll need aftermarket UCAs. I'm assuming a leveling kit wouldn't include that.

The numbers are pretty good if indeed stock UCAs.

 

Depends on the lift, but probably not.

Exactly zero toe and zero camber is not necessarily ideal. People on here seem to love those numbers but my truck drives better with 0.05 degrees of inward toe on each side as recommended by a shop I deal with that does almost nothing but service Tacoma's, FJ's, and 4Runners. They did the alignment twice just to show me. It doesn't wear the tires at that minor a level and it helps track the truck straight on a slant from what I was told. All I know is that it definitely drives better and I haven't noticed any increase in wear.

 

It's not ideal for a 3" lift but for a level kit it should be fine.

 

I didn’t think so, but I’m not an expert. I do know that mine isn’t set 0 & 0 either. It’s close, and I agree, no abnormal wear.

OP - if you’re wandering at interstate speed, or have what people call bump steer, might want to think about a set of aftermarket UCAs to bump that caster up. If not, you should be fine.

 

Nobody on this planet, or a truck or tires, can notice a .05° difference in toe.
To OP, camber should be as close to 0° as possible.

 

Not necessarily.

Spec is 1.3*+ to -.2 deg of camber. You will find that steering will be lighter with a bit of positive camber as that will reduce scrub radius. Also too much caster will make the truck more sensitive to pull due to road crown.

I used to think a smidge of negative camber (-0.2) with a simdge of toe in and caster around 3deg was ideal (1.75in of lift up front, with SPC UCA's)

I then started truly playing with alignment and understanding what does what, and there is a reason why toyota has mid spec of camber slightly positive and caster mid spec around 1.8. This creates a steering that is light, but not too light as well is something that does not wander and does not react to rode crown heavily.

 

But .05°???

 

Using an A,B,C,D,F grading system: Toe-in: A. Caster=C- (Caster of 2.00* would be B) (2.4 to 2.7 for an A), so long as both sides are close to equal. Camber = C (A would be 0* to -.2, both sides close to equal. While i realize the rear angles are not adjustable, I prefer the thrust angle to be + or - .25 but yours is close enough, assuming the alignment tech set the front toe where the truck tracks straight. Bottom line is you have a better than average alignment, but it's not great, the way it's now set up. I'd drive it & evaluate how it tracks and handles & how the tires wear. If you're satisfied, don't change a thing...and you may discover you're satisfied with it just the way it is.

 

You are correct with stock UCAs. Just the LRO level kit and spidertrax spacers right now. Already ready to upgrade rear block to headstrong progressive AAL and 5100 in rear due to minor axle wrap.

 

They could have done better. Stock arms can get 1-1.5*. Closer to 0 on toe and camber also.

 

.05* of toe in on both sides equals to around 3/16 of an inch of difference between the front and back of the tire. A vehicle will definitely want to straight line much more with that amount of toe in rather than absolute zero.

Also the problem with absolute zero statically is it will typically lead to a toe out situation when moving as the front tires are being pushed.

 

I’d have to dig up the spec sheet for that exact number but that’s what came to mind. Anyways the point is it wasn’t exactly zero and did feel a bit better. I run 295s on my truck with 2.5” of lift and JBA upper arms. Caster is around 4ish and feels right.

If I remember correctly higher positive caster is more important with larger and wider tires in order to maintain the same or similar feel to stock.

 

If you are stock height your fine, if your lifted you may need some adjusting but honestly I cant speak on that matter.

 

The front came up about 3" and rear up about 1.5"

 

Well then your beyond what i know would be ok, basic rule of thumb is if it doesnt pull and with steering wheel held straight the vehicle goes straight your good.

 

What does everyone think about these numbers? 2017 Tacoma, 0.75” lift on front, stock rear (level). 265/75R16 (sheet is incorrect). Truck pulls a little to the right after alignment. Did not pull at all with lift before alignment (front has been lifted for a year). Tech claimed he was not able to achieve 0 camber without sacrificing caster (I asked for caster around 2-3 deg).