Overwhelmed By Suspension Options

265 will fit. I’ll be leaving my overload in as well. BFGs might come in c rated option. I’ll have to check.

 

Just curious as the tires are not any wider but only 1" taller. That little bit of difference with the lift makes that much difference...?
Really don't want the CMC..!!

 

You won't rub with this setup at all. Even if you avoided the lift entirely and ran on a stock setup, you wouldn't rub.

 

Perfect....
Thank you..!!!

 

This is probably the perfect setup, I just internally struggle with the 285s vs. 265s. I love the look of the 285s, and it does produce more lift, but at what cost?

 

I plan on taller tires (pizza cutters) when mine wear out. No plan on a lift for me.

 

For the undecided, I’ll just leave this here...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ads-off-road-racing-shocks-information-pictures.341630/

I bought mine from @HeadStrong Off-Road and couldn’t be happier.

 

255x80x17 or 255x85x16, depending on what wheel you have now. Those are full 33"

Stock wheels, no lift, no rub, no cut, no chop.

Read up here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-skinny-on-skinny-tires.529656/

Use the truck.

Then do other things as you find a functional reason to.

Lift may improve some access/departure angles, but you are still axle limited in pure clearance. Only tires affect that. If you don't need those angles, you may not need a lift.

Depending on the terrain you drive, a nice set of sliders may be more valuable than a lift.

 

OK, here is a stupid question: does the TRD Pro provide lift compared with the SR5?

 

You should get 1" lift in the front with the Pro suspension. No difference in the back

 

Only 1in supposedly.

 

I called my dealership about the TRD suspension kit. Still waiting on labor quote, but the parts gave me sticker shock.

 

So there are two lines of thought here, in part due to the specific use of the shocks and the stigma behind them.

The person buying Kings is likely an enthusiast and will be doing some heavy offroad and is under the expectation that they need rebuilt every 30k-50k. Regardless of how those shocks are used, that person will likely rebuild at 30k-50k because thats what you do. This is basically considered preventative maintenance and if the shock is used to its full potential should occur in order to prevent other issues.

An OME or Bilstein shock is a traditional shock and thus people treat them like a traditional shock in that they buy them with no expectation of maintenance or replacement until failure. Really these shocks should also undergo preventative maintenance which is full replacement but that is expensive and inconvenient which is why people push them to 75k-90k.

The oil in shocks is relatively the same and breaks down just like normal oil under varies conditions. The degradation is slow an often unnoticeable until you replace/rebuild a shock.

If you took a set of King shocks and a set of Bilstein shocks and used them the exact same way, their liftspan would be exactly the same. Meaning, I can push my King shocks as far as an OME shock without rebuilding, but why would I? It's only $100 to rebuild a shock and I reduce the risk of total shock failure.

 

Joe, I have to disagree a bit with you here.

Oil degradation is just one portion of shock failure, and a minor one at that. The biggest culprit is seal failure, next is component failure and then comes oil.

If you took a set of Kings and Bilstein and used them the exact same way, chances are the Bilstein shocks will las a lot longer. Why? Proprietary materials and design for their components.
King is a small company compared to Bilstein. Bilstein spends more on just R&D in a year than King is worth as a company. Bilstein is just a much better designed and manufactured shock with materials built for reliability and durability.

Not to say King is shabby at all. King is one of the best high performance shocks out there. They can handle the big hits all damn day. But, Bilstein, especially in the 5100 or 6XXX series, is built to go a long time under normal conditions. There is a Big difference in the engineering required to make that happen.

Sort of like comparing a NASCAR Tundra to a stock Tundra. The NASCAR Tundra will outperform the regular Tundra... for 500 miles lol. If the race was for 5000 miles the Regular Tundra would win. One is built for high performance, the other is built for decent performance but also reliability and durability. NASCAR Tundra costs a lot, regular Tundra not so much. This is like comparing King and Bilstein.

 

I was in a similar situation. I will be doing some offroading but not rock climbing but drive >10 000km highway in a single trip to California (which I do three times a year from Alberta).

I opted for this in my 2017 sport:

2" up front 2.0 Fox Coilovers
2.5" 2.0 Fox w/ Resi
added leaf

Tires switched from stock 17" rims to:
BFG k02's 265/75/R16 (was going to get the Falken Wildpeaks but couldn't get a set in time)
Method NV rims

Im now getting about 2.5" total lift (maybe a bit more as the tires added about 1" of added height). I also maintained some rake to my truck so that as I add weight to the box and be at least level.

What I found:
It more than handles the offloading I am doing right now (I'm a surf/Sup/ Mountain biker so service roads, mountain terrain, Moab, but nothing super gnarly like rock climbing or high speed etc.) Drives amazing, even better than before, on the highway and am even getting a bit better gas milage than before (without the leaf and added lift in back I was level or worse so it affected my gas milage...due to weight in back).

Total cost, had a shop do it as I didn't want to risk screwing something up, was:
For lift + parts+ and shop time (wheel balance etc): somewhere in realm of 2800$ CAD
Tires + Rims + Shop time: $2000 CAD (sold old tires and rims that only had few 100 kms for $1000CAD)
KRave Automotive in Calgary did it. THEY ARE AWESOME!!

So far love it! Haven't got a tonne of time on it but its been great so far.

 

That's why you buy used take offs. I guy in this thread offered his to you at a very good price FYI. You get one inch height increase up front from them.

 

You are correct

 

Did you adjust your front Fox 2.0 Coil-Overs, or did you just put them on right out of the box. I have the same fronts and rears for that matter; I will be installing in the next week or so.

 

Hey... WTF are you doing in the 3rd gen thread? Go back to SoCal Thread Squatters...

 

Haha... Just giving you shit. At least you can coexist in the 3rd gen threads without getting into trouble like a some unnamed others (@dtaco06)...