**** CLOSED **** Redline Tuning 20% off Hood QuickLIFT systems Group Buy! Ends May 31th!

Ordered. Prop sticks on lifted trucks stink. I've been waiting for this.

 

Thanks for the GB

 

Mine are ordered.... Thanks for the discount!

 

This GB pushed me the edge!

I couldn't take the heat! Gotta have it!

 

In for a set!
Thanks @RedlineTuning for doing this!

 

I am looking everywhere for decent bit stops. The most common type is a collar that you attach tot he bit and then tighten a set screw. I am reading that even these can slip. That scares the hell out of me.

I am going to do one of two things. I am either going to make my own bit stop by using a piece of 3/8" PVC and cutting it to about 1/2" long, then using a larger drill bit, just drill a hole through it. Then make sure my bit is set up inside the chuck as far as needed to be sure only about 3/16" of an inch is protruding. Or, what I might do is just buy a single metal bit, and then using my hack saw, cut it off so that I can run it up into the chuck and use the chuck jaws as the stop. This second idea came from my buddy that builds planes. He's definitely smarter than the average bear. He's frugal too so he laughed when I told him I was looking for stops. He said he makes his own.

I also found one on Amazon that is "adjustable" and it wasn't expensive.

$9 Century Drill & Tool 73512 Adjustable Drill Stop Collar, 2 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Dril...pID=51LBz0vKUKL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I watched a video of this in action and it seemed to work fine.

Here's the classic design:

$8 Drixet Drill Stop Bit Collar Set – Kit Includes: 1/8", 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16” and 1/2" with Allen Wrench to Tighten The Stops Set-Screws (7-Piece)

https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Drill...pID=41kRFbTQJNL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I will likely use something like this as many times as I use the heavy duty rivit gun but I am not opposed to having tools sit until I need them. What I hat is needing tools and not having them.

I am still trying to find the data on the drill bit size required.

 

I've used the collar type before with good results, just make sure the set screw makes solid contact with the bit. One time I was paranoid and used two collars but it wasn't necessary.

 

@Radarninja

 

Thanks, I still might get them. I just feel like with the right bit and the right speed the collar type would be the added insurance I need..

 

Oh man the anticipation...any videos of the install available? I haven’t looked but I take it we don’t have access behind the hole? If we do, I would just tape a piece of thick rubber or small 1/2” thick wood piece to the back side to “bump” into..I guess the key here is a small pilot hole with a short bit that can be stuck deep into the drill’s chuck, then gradullay upsizing bits to slowly widen the hole...that way the bigger bit can be controlled with slow and gradual pressure instead of pushing hard to get the bigger and final bit to bite, so essentially when you end up on the final bit, your “boring” the hole as opposed to drilling it?

Or how about this, drill into a small wooden block of desired depth, put a piece of duct tape on the face the looks at the hole, and let it ride all the way to the top of the bit until it contacts flush with the chuck and leave it there while you drill? Sure it might spin but does the job too...

 

Actually here is a better quicker way...got this from a YouTube video. Use electrical tape:



Here is the install video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LX_OervyX08

 

Wait, I need a rivet tool?

Amazon has them here:

TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-Piece Rivets

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-Piece-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C

 

Thanks! Ordered

 

Yes, you do.

 

Right, nothing behind the area but the hood itself soooo, Danger Will Robinson! But you are describing probably one of the safest methods for drilling these holes without a stop. Also, the short bit idea is excellent. This is what I was describing in my post. If I have to cut bits down with a hack saw I will. Think about it this way, even if you bought the best bits money can buy and they cost you $20 bucks, that would not be as much as having a dimple or worse, a hole in the hood fixed. Also, like you said, and I said previously, some shorter bits will not require to be cut down if your chuck is deeper. I have a newer 20v Dewalt I am going to use. One of those smaller, brushless models. It has adjustable speeds. I am going to check my bits I have and see how deep they fit inside. The chuck jaws will act as a stop. I just need to find the data on the final bit size.

This is exactly what that adjustable bit stop does. You can also use wooden dowels. I watched a video just yesterday. If you have a disc grinder or a palm sander, or hell, just some concrete you can grind the tip down some to the shape of a pencil, or point, so you can see the work surface easier.

Absolutely not for me! I have seen this method fail. If you are exerting force, when you punch through the material, unless your are Bruce Lee you will not have the kind of control required to pull back before making contact. Tape is a guide, not a stop. Say it with me, tape = guide, not stop. LOL

Yes, I was just hunting this down for you. This is the video I watched and thought it was great.

Well, you will definitely need some sort of rivet gun. Before going into what does or doesn't work, just order the one from Harbor Freight specified at the bottom of this page. Or get the Dewalt version in the video. He struggled with that one. The strut kits come with steel rivets. Most guns are designed for aluminum rivets. The Harbor Freight gun is designed for steel rivets. If you have the coin and plan on doing a lot of rivet work, Harbor Freight has a pneumatic version if you also have a compressor. I have a really good, smaller hand operated gun that I know would not be enough, and I have great arm strength. I bought the one at the bottom of the page.

And yes, this is very exciting!!!! I have wanted these since I joined the forum.

 

I bought one from HF yesterday just got this project

 

This is the gun I am talking about here:

 

How about LOTS of tape until it becomes a fatty? Anyways, I ordered the one from Amazon I posted above before I saw that Harbor Freight has them, will give it a whirl with that one first. With that said, I did not see any rivet tool description where they differentiate or call out that it can handle steel or not...so fingers crossed I don't have to become incredible hulk to do this. I mean even if the rivet tool is rendered dull after this install, I don't really mind because I honestly will never rivet again.

Has anyone ventured to do this with self tapping stainless screws made for sheet metal to do this install? I know the rivet is better, but why wouldn't a self tapping screw with a small pilot to get it concentric and lines up not be recommended? Point of failure? Fatigue? Stress on the screws versus load?

tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop
tape = guide, not stop

 

Mine just shipped!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well, any gun is capable of getting the job done. With rivets the key is keeping all the metal parts as close to each other as possible until the process is complete. As long as you have the strength to push the tool against the bracket and squeeze the handle at the same time the result will be a tight secure fastener.

I thought the same thing myself about screws but I suppose they would have to be short, and if it goes in, it can come out. Not enough surface area in the threads for a permanent grip, even with loctite. I could be wrong though.