Crank won’t turn

I’m retro. Bringing back the old ways. Like letting the air out of the front tires on a truck to make it easier to work on

 

Yes, I would hate to think he is that naive , but this thread is long past the point of “somethin just ain’t addin up”

 

Just add another 64 oz of marvel mystery oil so let’s see what this dose.

 

More pics. The crack pully I have the bar on.the crank picture is from the bottom side of the truck looking up. The belt is off and I can spin all other pulleys by hand except the crank. The fluid on it is coolant from the intake being off and the radiator being full and still in the truck. The air filter (looks new). And intake pipe. I don’t see and signs of water. The throttle as a small amount of rust but could be from sitting.

 

Will it even wiggle? Can you try spinning it the other way?

 

Just a thought, any chance you have it in gear with the e-brake on while trying to turn the crank? Just something easy to forget

 

Won’t move clock wise or counter clock wise. It’s in neutral. Just have the e-brake on

 

Another way to try is put it in 2nd gear with e-brake off. Have some help you try to rock it back and forth while you watch the crank pulley .

 

That wimpy combination breaker bar is your first problem. Get a 3' to 4' length of pipe to fit over your ratchet, get that sucker snug on crank and give it a heave!

 

If the breaker bar hasn't folded over yet, then it seems to be handling all the torque he has put onto it.

 

I got a 5 foot breaker bar for crankshaft bolts in Honda products. That thing works great

 

5 foot is just asking for trouble. That's ridiculous.
I have an LS1 sitting in the engine bay of my E46 wagon. The motor is good, it's perfect. No issues. But since the project has been on hiatus for the school year, I thought I should walk over and rotate the crank. Good thing I did as the serpentine belt was becoming rusted to the crank pulley.
I think I used a 12" rachet to rotate it by hand?

If this motor don't turn over with a 18"-24" breaker bar, using 60" is just being immature for entertainment purposes. A seized motor can't resist someone putting all their might into a 2' breaker bar. A seized piston or or welded rod bearings will give way immediately. There's something jammed somewhere here. I'm betting a bent rod at this point.

 

You have a ferrous serpentine?

 

Obviously you haven’t tried to pull the crank bolt off a Honda. They are stuck in there with crazy amounts of torque. Chevy motors are cake. I can break that bolt loose with a stubby impact

 

No I've never had to take a crank bolt off of a honda, but I can't imagine your numbers working out.
5' breaker bar, and I'm assuming you either stand on the bar, or you press down on it very hard. Even if you only apply 100lb of force, that's 500 ft-lb of torque...

Some guy jumping on a 5' breaker bar coming out the front of a car is literally some Tom and Jerry cartoon shit.

Aside from it being just goofy and "cartoon-like physics" all around, I can't imagine the head of the bolt not shearing off. Also, what the hell are you locking it up with? Put the e-brake on with the trans in 5th gear and 500lb of torque is still gonna move the wheels on a Honda. Are you removing the starter and welding the flywheel to the block through the starter hole???? like I legit can't figure this out.

 

Flywheel holder tool when the double torque socket on an impact fails to remove it. Then the breaker bar comes out with the flywheel holder

 

I just read everything up to this point... and now I want to know how this story ends!

GOOD LUCK, OP!

 

No, it's crazy hard red LocTite. I'm surprised your experience isn't that they just shear off.

 

They give way if you are able to turn it like a 64th of a turn.

 

That thin wall tubing you call a breaker bar is not putting the torque you need to break a stuck piston loose. Which most likely would be first problem if this motor just sat too long. But who knows?