Well I guess I need a cylinder head rebuild?

I had a bad head gasket on my 2000 2.7l . I had bad compression on #3 and #4 cylinders. When I pulled the head and took it in to get reconditioned . The shop found several cracks in the exhaust ports. Ordered a new head new velves and springs already assembled for $500 ish. I did all the work over a weekend and the truck is running strong two years later . Worth mentioning that the engine has 334k miles on it. No ring lip on the block and smooth as glass when head was installed .

 

Wish I could fly you out haha!

 

Yeah timing has to be spot on because it is a interference engine

 

Buy the Chilton or Haynes manual. Find the chapter on head removal and start reading and pulling parts. I use a rectangular box to punch all the bolts through and Mark them on the box with a circle and where they came from . If I remove 8 intake manifold bolts I put the top 4 on the top and the bottom 4 under the top 4 on the box then lable them intake manifold . I do that all way down to the last bolt on teardown. It's a tedious task but makes assembly easier . I learned this from my grandfather who designed transmissions for Dodge back in the 50's.
If you can read and follow instructions you can do this.

 

If you remove the head you probably need the surface planed too

 

I don't want to be bad news sally over here, but I just wanted to point out that not 100%. You could have worn out rings.

 

I think he meant that a valve adjustment could 100% fix it if a valve were not actually burnt.

 

The surface of the engine block? I won’t need to resurface the old head because I’ll be getting a new one.

 

Old head . Just make sure to clean the top of the block don't scratch or gouge it. I used a flat blade and acetone on a rag to remove all of the old head gasket.

 

Does anyone have kind of a go to list of what to replace when taking the head off?

The plan is to do this as of now:

-Replace current head with new remanufactured head / includes new cam shafts assembled
-New head gasket set
-New head bolts


I replaced my VC gasket and spark plug tube seals about two weeks ago. Will I be able to use those again when I transfer the VC to the new head? Or will I need new gaskets and seals?
I guess I could just buy head gasket set that includes all new gaskets and replace them anyways, intake manifold, exhaust, VC, everything.

 

Shoot, I wish I was closer I would be willing to help out as well. Camshafts arent that bad to remove, just zip tie the cam gear to the timing chain. If you get the factory service manual it shows step by step picture instructions, it will walk you right through it.

Well, if you dont have much mechanical experience inside engines I cant say I recommend attempting it yourself. Its a big job, timing has to be spot on, cams need to be torqued, head needs to be torqued properly, not to mention all the small little lines etc that need to be hooked up. When I did mine that was the first time I was into a car engine that deep, at least one that needed to run again. You dont have to worry about damaging the pistons but you would have to be careful cleaning the block. But, if you feel comfortable with it or could find a friend to help, and have the service procedure, its not terrible. Just follow the manual to the "T", and triple check everything.

Yeah definitely check block deck and head with straight edge. Nice thing is a reman head is already surfaced and dead flat.

 

Did you call cylinderhead.com and see if they have a head for a 3rz?

Yup, I would buy what they call a "valve grind gasket kit". OEM from Toyota it has every seal and gasket you need EXCEPT injector spacer cups. You will need those if you buy a reman head. Also OEM toyota head bolts. For the valve grind kit, spacer cups, and bolts you should be right around $275 shipped. Get in touch with Gunny and he will hook you up with exact prices.

Yes you can reuse the valve cover seals no problem. VG gasket kit comes with all that too. Here is a link, I think this will fit yours.

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~engine~valve~grind~04112-75101.html

 

Is the Haynes manual sufficient for the job? Or should I get a different service manual? I'm pretty comfortable within the engine compartment, but deepest I've ever gone is doing VC gaskets, exhaust and intake manifold changes. Never separated a head from a block before, but the challenge is seeming less and less daunting after doing research. The shop wants $900 to take the head out and then put the new one in. I'm thinking I buy one for $450 and then a new gasket set for $95 from Felpro and just give it a go myself. I have a buddy that is willing to help me that is very experienced.

Should I go with OEM gaskets or will a Felpro kit do the job?

 

I'm waiting to hear the results of the leak down test to determine if it is a valve problem or a piston problem. If it's a piston problem, I guess I'll be on the hunt for a new engine to drop in. How are they able to tell from a leak down test if the problem is within the head or the engine block? Isn't the only way of knowing if I have a burnt valve to really remove the head?

 

Dont buy Fel-Pro, OEM only. Its not much more and you have the piece of mind that everything will fit and be top quality. Dont waste your time with cheap gaskets. OEM all the way.

Try and find the factory Toyota service manual. I will look and see if I can find a link for it if I get a chance. Or if anyone else has the link??

Yeah if you feel comfortable then go for it! Especially if your buddy can give you a hand, you shouldnt have a problem. Just post any questions or problems you have as you do it and we can help.

 

OEM gaskets it is then.
Thanks for all the help!
As soon as I get the word on the leak down test, I'll get in touch with Gunny and get a head sent my way and then all the gaskets and bolts. I've read that the chances of a piston issue on my engine (135k miles) is very unlikely because it has such low miles. Would you agree? I'm just worried that the mechanic will assume that the engine needs to be replaced and tell me that a head replacement will be a waste of money. He things there's some sort of problem with the block and that's why the center cylinders have low compression while #1 and #4 are good. But then I'm hearing that it could just be exhaust valves going out on both #2 and #3.

 

Yeah no problem. I was in the exact same situation too and know what its like. Glad I could help.

Well, its hard to say. Obviously the only way to know 100% for sure if its a burnt valve is to pull the head. However cyl #2 and 3 are buddy cylinders, so thats interesting. Doubt its worn rings though with that many miles, and especially if 1 and 4 are good. Really only way to tell is gonna be to pull the head. I think its likely exhaust valves but its anyones guess, especially without seeing it for myself. I say pull the head and let us know what you find!

 

Looks like it's just a burnt valve, the mechanic said there is 50% leak down in cylinder 2 leading him to believe that it's not a piston. I'm going to call and order a head now and get this thing going.

 

One of the best instructional videos I have seen on replacing a head on a 1st gen:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/voLBRDZL9fE

 

Got my head from cylinderhead this morning. Thanks for the reference, excited about that deal.
As far as the valve grind kit, I can't get an answer from their technical support on an itemized list of gaskets in that kit.
Does it have spark plug tube seals, I don't see those pictured? You're saying that pretty much everything I need is in there? Wish they gave details on what was included.