AC Clutch Failure - How to fix! (blinking light, squealing)

Right now the only thing i ordered is the hub. Think thatll do it?

 

heres another clutch for sale https://www.ebay.com/p/AC-Compresso...itm=253621130077&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

 

Auction only! Who puts a part up like this auction only, estimated delivery may 29th. Someone buying clutch hubs just in case? Lol

 

I had those lock ring pliers from HF and could never get it to go back on using those. As Chris24 says, it's really hard to see. You're basically putting it on there by feel. It took me longer than an hour, more like 3 days, trying a couple hours a day. I'd get frustrated and quit. When I watched the video, I was like that dude either has really skinny long fingers or he paused the recording, because there's no way you get it on the first try! Luckily, I don't think you'll have to do that. Just the hub.
BTW I can't believe how much rust is in there. Those NE winters must eat through metal.

 

Yea man. The rust is real hete. Wnen i changed my spark plugs i actually had to wire brush sone off the bolts because the socket wouldn't fit on the head because of the buildup. Id like to replace the clutch bolt but can't find anything local

 

I read a review on EBAY from a guy who bought the complete clutch assembly and he mentioned if the original magnet on the truck is still functioning leave it on and just replace the pulley with new bearings in it and clutch if you can leave the magnet alone. I think this is why they completely pull and replace the compressor and replace the complete system it may actually be easier than dealing with those magnet and clips while still on the truck, plus they can charge for additional labor and system recharging. yes the dude on the video made it look easy as pie and after watching the vid makes u think a real easy fix, thanx for the info.

 

the Toyota part #88329-04050 for the bolt http://fivercompressor.com/Uploads/large20151126/88320-04060.jpg

 

thanks! I wish they would include the specs so I should buy a stainless one that matched the size and threads so the goddamn thing wont turn to crap after a few years.

 

Yeah did you notice how the camera cut while he was doing that snap ring? It could have been HOURS later, lol!

 

that would suck if you bought the kit expecting a 1/2 hour easy fix that could turn into a tow job to the Dealership because of a frigging snap ring. this is all good info tho if u plan on trying it yourself or maybe omitting not doing the magnet if possible.

 

Yeah the magnet is definitely engaging - the clutch hub engages. If the bearing is messed up on the clutch i'll just do the pulley, so i dont have to deal with the snap ring from hell.

 

im wondering if using what they call long reach internal snap ring pliers would work better on the deeper magnet snap ring, there seems to be a difference in the pliers for internal snap ring removal and the tougher internal rings.https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Pgam-YYhL._SX355_.jpg http://shop.wirecutterstore.com/assets/images/knipex-internal-snap-ring-pliers-installation.jpg http://www.spxflow.com/en/images/full11_14656671x386_Pliers6.jpg

 

Maybe.. I think there should be enough clearance between the A/C and whatever is directly in front of it.

 

I think those HF pliers might not have been long enough to deep reach in there easily and werent for internal rings seems like there is a difference for certain applications, the HF pliers were a generic type not a specific need type. check this out http://i.imgur.com/bOB1Nsm.jpg

 

LOL! I guess not hahahaha. Will definitely get deep dive pliers if i need to mess with that snap ring. If I do need to do the pulley it looks like i'll have to buy a whole kit, cant seem to find anything that just sells the pulley and hardware. I'd have to suck it up and spend the extra 125.

 

maybe u can do a borrow on a set at AUTOZONE check this video it says when removing internal type rings you compress the ring then remove it on external rings you spread the ring and remove I wonder if the people having issues removing and replacing are actually trying to spread the ring in removal instead of compressing it? and having issues the same putting it back by not compressing?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awukccq1d6k

 

if you can punch out the old bearing you can replace it this seems the less expensive way if u can do it. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/national-bearings-203-ss/18440215-P

 

How do you know if that bearing will fit?

 

im not quite sure if that wil fit but this should https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-Com...oyota-Tacoma-2005-2015-2016-A-C-/112596083846

 

It's just a shitty spot for a snap ring. There is limited area around the ring and limited area to maneuver pliers. If the pliers' handles are too large you are SOL. As I said earlier the ring tries to bend when you spread it open and you can't get your fingers in there to try and flatten it. It comes out super easy, putting it back in is the challenge. Bent nose pliers will be best, but it's kind of deep so you'd have to get the extra long nose ones.. .I used straight ones that came from Oreilly, which was all they had. I originally bought some from Amazon originally and they were too short to reach into the magnet.