5VZ-FE 3.4L Fan and Bracket Delete / Electric Conversion

watching. popcorn at the ready.

 

Kind of a personal thing I wish you well!!

My problem always was them failing at the worst time and place

 

I've been taking this on as a project. Curious to see what you come up with...

 

is that the 2.7 all aluminum radiator?

 

Just to ask and not poke but if you are an engineer then why would you change what toyota put millions in R&D on? I've tried it many times and had a shroud made of carbon fiber to take full advantage of dual electric fans, didnt work as well as the clutch setup not saying it cant be done but toyota has electric fans on other cars just not our trucks and for their own reasons, it works!, and (reliability). Best of luck to your design and in theory it sounds good and cleans up the engine bay. Worst case scenario you would waste the money that could buy headers and that would actually cool down the engine better and guarantee you'll get more power.

 

Close to the 2.7, made to work for the 3.4l.
http://www.championradiators.com/Toyota-Tacoma-Radiator-1995-2004

 

An excellent question. The short answer is that OEM engineers need to design to a price point; we are set the task of designing a system to meet requirements that are not only dictated by performance, but cost as well. Toyota found the mechanical fan to be the best choice at the time for this specific application; but not necessarily the best as far as performance is concerned. High CFM electric fans and the associated controllers and wiring all add cost and increase complexity (which means more cost). Eventually all vehicles will move to electric fans as the EPA demands more efficient vehicles; usually this leads to an increase in the price of the vehicle as well. Back in the 90s, the associated cost with using an electric fan for a 1mpg increase was not worthwhile to the manufacturer. At some point in time I have no doubt that the engineers did consider an electric fan; imho if price were no object they would have used an electric fan as it provides significantly more control over a mechanical fan. Engineers like control.

Slow progress for now (I work long hours M-F) but I've begun to consider temperature controller options. I'm seeking an option that is within reach for the average owner (I have access to a lot of different controllers). Although I could go PID controlled with PWM fans, I realize that is overly complicated for most people to grasp, and, frankly, the benefits in this application aren't great enough to warrant the setup complexity. So it will likely be bang-bang (on/off) with a two fan setup, one or both. With an auxiliary override of course.

EDIT: I'm leaning towards this Dakota digital controller... All things considered it looks like a decent unit that is purpose built for the task at hand. I can go with a more expensive, aerospace grade unit (something like a Watlow, heavily discounted through my job) but this fits all of my requirements: Two temperature setpoints, auxiliary input, two outputs, easily obtainable, reliable (based on reviews) etc etc. I'll probably go ahead and order it and begin putting together a wiring diagram for everything.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-pac-2750/overview/

 

Fwiw, I'm running the dakota digital fan controller. I have it tapped into my stock dash temp guage. I am using a scan guage II to monitor the ECT. So far, this set up has worked pretty well.

It comes with a few preprogrammed guage settings. IIRC there are two that worked, one was really close, like with in a degree or two of what my scan guage was reading.

 

That's fantastic, I really appreciate that feedback. I already have my ultra gauge hooked up to monitor temperatures.

 

Keep in mind that the dash temp guage and the temp read by the ECU are two different temps taken by different sensors. I can't remember for sure, but I'm thinking the ECU gets it's reading from a sensor on the rear of the engine, and the guage come off the front someplace. I can't remember, it's been a while since I had a stock engine in my truck.

 

R&D that was invested in early 2000s though. What was nominal then surely isn't now. I also agree what isn't broke don't fix it but also want to see the outcome.

 

I'll double check that, thanks for the information.

I bet the 2uzfe is fantastic. I would personally love a diesel (like a real hilux) but will likely have to settle for a supercharger (one day) to keep things simple and CA legal. *rolls eyes*

Automotive technology has definitely come a long way in 20 years. Couldn't agree more.

 

I installed a kit years and years ago that came with electric fan and controller. The thing hardly ever comes in. The cooling system on the Tacoma is extremely efficient. The controller does cause the fan to come on when you turn on the AC.
The kit I used is called "Perma-cool"

 

This, and I realized that having an electric fan seemed cool but honestly if you run the right coolant you can get away without any fan and where I live it gets to 120* in the dang shade. For the fact that it's simple and problem free I run mine stock because I'd like to just watch the younger crowd chase down the ricer crowd for 1 hp gain at a time! I've had extensive talks with lc engineering about the fastest 5VZ motors they've built and N/A 500hp is about the limit and that is everything built to withstand blowing it up and that motor was almost purchased by me but needed a standalone computer. The case Im making is its cheaper to make power than worry about the engines heat efficiency, I almost had that 500hp engine for 5k just couldn't pull the trigger because Cali Smog Nazi's won't allow for the standalone minus all the rest of the "illegal" engine mods. To me an electric fan is just bling unless you need to cross actual water. I still like to watch what people do as mods of their own, hopefully it produces great results!

 

Just a quick update: Been super busy this past weekend- I had to finish up my Suzuki RMX250 Supermoto Conversion (its plated so its my way at getting back at the Cali EPA Nazis) then I spent all of Sunday working on my girlfriends Honda Odyssey. Not much will happen for a short while until parts begin to arrive, but I've made progress on the parts list.

I'm just about settled on an LS1 Dual Fan setup out of a C5 corvette; It should be a very close fit, and from what information I can gather online, the Fans put out over 10,000 CFM when both on at 14.5 Volts. Prior to this install I will be getting my auxiliary fuse box all wired up. At the same time I will be replacing the ground, alternator, and starter cables (The Big 3, as they are so commonly known). Like all of my builds, I will be going with a Blue Sea Systems Auxiliary fuse box; I've yet to have one let me down. The Electrical system will be divided up into High Amperage loads (Winches, E Fans, Compressor, etc) and Low Amperage/ Control Circuit loads. The BSS Fuse Box will handle the low amp circuits as well as control circuits, and a separate bus bar will provide the other components with power.

 

The LS1 Fans are good however check out the Taurus electric fan. Easy to do and uses less voltage on start up then the dual LS1 fans. I had the LS1 fans on a old 4.3L V6 Blazer with a Flex a lite controller and although it worked, I did overheat the truck one time (extreme conditions going up highway 18 on a 105 degree day). The taurus fan can be had for 1/3 the price and it pulls a lot of CFM (I dont remember the LS fans being anywhere near 10,000 CFM but maybe they changed them?). The Taurus fan is a twin speed but many people just wire up the high speed since a lot of the digital controllers will manage the voltage.

 

I've looked into the Taurus fan, but my understanding is they only flow about 5500CFM. For $125 its hard to beat the LS1 Option. I'm not concerned with amperage draw on startup.

 

Ok. Sorry.

 

I have a Flex-a-Lite, and it's worked fine for the past 12-13 years.

 

no harm no foul, its all good man