6" Lift Options

Majority of the time It'll be driven as a daily driver to and from work, until I get the money in 4 months or so in the USMC to suspension lift it etc.

That being said, Its not going to be used for mudding much at all - just the occasional trip out into the fields with my buddies.

 

I guess I can rephrase it.

It'll be driven on the road daily - majority of the time 95% of the time, and occasionally used off road.

That being said, I like lifted trucks always have always will - Mall Crawler 2018

Anyways, I was quite pissed when Rough Country came out with a suspension lift, but it's for 4WD only - apparently the kit doesnt work with 2WD trucks due to the headers or something on the axels,

 

If your a v6 you can get tge tuff county one, but thats only a 5” lift, which is still really tall

 

Or even a pro comp 4” lift, but you only option for 6” looks like the fabtech one. Sorry to say but you kinda picked the wrong truck to make a mall crawler

 

I am not interested in crawling or a 4,5 or 6 inch lift . I drive on knarlly back roads in the mountains of Montana and Idaho. This is my main rig. Period. So the less I have to modify it the better. This is my everyday rig.

 

Tbh if you just get a winch with front and rear lockers with good tires you dont need big tires or a lift, thay stuff alone will get you out of most things

 

Yeah, I missed that. So the CV joints obviously don't matter for the OP, but since the suspension is identical between pre-runners and the 4x4's, you still have the same issues with alignment.

The other thing about the blocks/spacers for the front is that, especially with a 3" spacer, you may run into a situation where you could bottom out the shock before hitting the bump stops, which would destroy your shocks. I haven't measured how much shock travel I had left with my 5100s after hitting the bump stops, but I can't imagine it's all that much...

So you'd need to either get spacers for the bump stops (which actually reduce your total wheel travel), or better yet, go with a proper lift coil (OME), that doesn't change your wheel travel, just where the truck sits at ride height - you essentially increase the up travel, but reduce the down travel).

I find that odd. The pre-runners and the 4x4's are essentially identical. If a kit fits the 4x4, it should fit the pre-runners too. Maybe they're talking about not fitting the 5-lug 2wds?

Anyhoo, don't get the rough country, there is a reason they are usually the cheapest (it uses blocks and ball joint spacers!). Just get yourself a set of 5100s with OME springs front and rear to get your 3" of lift. Run some 33's.

If you're really heartset on a 6" lift, IMO go fabtech. At least the fabtech kit has new longer spindles instead of balljoint spacers... Is it more expensive? Yeah! Better too!

If you're on a budget, just stick with the 5100s.

 

“Where can i get these BJ spacers”

 

I think that thread needs to be a sticky.

 

Every time i hear about a bad lift or these cheap drop bracket lifts i think of that guy

 

Aftermarket spindles for first gens cost $1500 and require new UCAs. Only way to do 6" without spenind the money is spacers and body lift which is worse.

 

The 6" fabtech kit is something near $3000. For that kind of money, why not spend another grand and throw a solid axle under there... Then you can really bro it out with a 10" lift and 42's

 

Another grand for SAS? LolLol


Just keep looking for deals, I bought a fabtech kit for $700 last year. Or you could get a tuff country or procomp and do 2-3 on top to get the lift you want.

 

The pro comp and ruff country are already giant spacer lifts, idk if its a good idea to stack a spacer on a spacer. The fabtech lift uses really tall shocks with the stock coils

 

Don't stack lifts...

 

Never said to use spacers anywhere. Coilovers made for these lifts will get you the desired height and adjustability. The fabtech keeps everything at a stock angle so putting 3" on top of it is like lifting a stock truck 3"

 

Feel free to stack lifts if you want, I still think it's a dumb idea and will never recommend anyone do it.

If you want a 6" lift, get a six inch lift (personally only the Fabtech seems to be a decent lift). Don't buy two crappy 3" lifts and stack them together.

 

I never recommended to do spacers and a body lift I was just saying that's the cheap way. A way I'll never do it. I'll spend 3k+ to get 6" before I do a body lift

 

I am not interested in 6" lift. I only want to make sure I have enough lift so my tires won't rub at all on wheel well. So what I am hearing is that these 5100's will do the job. Is that correct? I have shocks in back and struts in the front. By the way what is the difference between a 95 Tacoma and a 95.5 Tacoma and how do you know which one you have.

 

Generally 5100's set at their highest will give you enough to clear most 33" tires. A lot depends on your wheel back spacing, specific tires, etc... But most guys with a 3" lift do just fine on 33's. You might still need to hammer down the pinch weld, though.

You don't have struts. Tacomas have coilovers from the factory. Struts are different. They look similar, but integrate into the suspension differently.

95 was the last year of the pickup. They came out with the new body style (named Tacoma) mid year in 1995, so they are called a 95.5. Not sure there are many 95 pickups out there, actually...