Emissions Problem - Failed Smog

sounds like a good idea. The $125 just goes toward the work so might as well, having new spark plugs too will help scratch one potential problem item off the list as far as the failing cats go.

 

I know a guy who lives in Hong Kong and his daily driver is an '82 Rolls-Royce Corniche. He probably only drives a few thousand miles a year at most, and he has to get his car emissions tested and safety inspected (called an MOT, short for Ministry of Transportaion) every year!

 

If you have an OBDII scanner and you have figured out why the Check Engine light does not illminate(instant failure) I would put some new plugs, a clean air filter and reset the CEL. It will take a couple of days to clear the P1000 code(no monitors checked/passed) and as soon as it is smog ready, smog it. Unless the cat(s) are so far gone it usually takes an extended steady driving condition for the catalytic convertor below efficiency code to pop. Waiting to smog it after work because it is convienient just might be too long of a drive. On difficult to smog vehicles I will drop them off at the smog shop after hours and be there first thing in the AM and warm it up there. Unless you get a smog Nazi tech they understand and will allow it. The most difficult monitors to clear are the evap ones. This requires the fuel tank to be between 1/4 and 3/4 full and you have to do this for 2 drive cycles with an overnight period.

Now, as to your question, yes they can tell but relying on the OBDII codes is not the way. A infrared thermometer is a quick way, just see if the temp at the back of the cat is hotter than the front by some 150+ degrees F and it is working, how efficently? thats a different test.

 

This is why I like the 76 and older exemption in Calif , You can basically have a Drag race car on the street and not worry about vehicle inspections or smog test

 

I have read through this thread and it seems like you're getting a lot of great info from everybody, it can be very difficult to get a positive diagnosis on a failed cat. With the bad spark plugs, dirty air filter, exhaust leak and possibly failing/failed A/F or O2 sensor there's a good chance that anyone of these issues could cause a cat to fail. If you do have to replace the front catalytic converter we offer a Direct-fit California converter with CARB EO# Issued. Basically, it has the number that the smog shops need to see. The part# for the front converter is 914492. If you click on the photo below you'll be linked to the part on our website. One additional item that I did not see addressed is the "OBD bulb check" inspection. You may want to find out if this was a physical inspection to see if the "check engine" light illuminated when the key was turned to "ACC". If this bulb has failed you may need to factor in the cost to remove the speedometer display to replace the bulb inside. If you have additional questions please feel free to PM me or call us at 707-544-4761.

-Jason @ Flowmaster

 

Noticed a bit of improvement with the spark plugs. Revved and accelerated a bit faster. Next step is the air filter.

Last time I did either was at 136,000 and 145,000. At 280,000 now.

 

great info and response, quality vendor.

150k on an air filter? you better live in a filtered bubble

 

Your truck has athsma and has had it for a long time. Cheap, easy, routine PM will prevent or reduce costly repairs.

 

1996-2002 Toyota Drive Cycle- All Models.
http://justsmogs.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf

 

holy crap lol, when I had a paper filter I replaced it every oil change (had to, they would get filthy from offroading).

AEM Pro Dry filter is a great investment, just have to take it out and wash it.

 

A good way to check the condition of your air filter is remove it then look thru the pleats facing the sun , If you can see light thru the filter its good . if you can't see any light or if it's very dim its time to replace or clean it

 

So I cleaned the K&N air intake filter with the K&N Recharger kit. The CEL code P0420 disappeared. I never did clear the code with the OBDII scanner, it just went away this morning when I started the car after putting the cleaned intake filter back on.

It may come back on, I don't know. But I wasn't expecting that code to go away right when starting the Taco up.

 

Thanks for the info. And I had forgotten about the "bulb check" note on the paperwork.

 

I suspect I have a bad cat too. I checked them both and found my rear cat was 100* hotter at the back than the front. I checked the joint where the pipe meets the cat. Baffled.

 

Do you have a check engine light, whats the code

 

No codes or lights. Checked with a scanner and my CEL does work but isn't illuminated.

It's been almost 2k miles and my catalyst cycle will not complete. My exhaust sounds somewhat constricted and I do have loss of power above 2300 rpm. I plan to separate the CAT from the upstream pipe by a quarter inch to see if power returns, but the nuts are frozen and I'm waiting on a tool delivery.

 

Anyone seen one of these for an '03? Or do you suspect it's the same cycle?

 

That's good news and a positive sign that that may have taken care of your issue...though I must say I have never heard of a dirty air filter causing a P0420 code....usually it's a lean code or MAF sensor related code. Keep an eye on it just in case it was a coincidence...when I first got my P0420 it went away on it's own a few times after the catalyst cycle would complete and it would barely pass itself...but once the cat got bad enough the code would come back and it would stay on.

For now though that's a positive sign and let's hope that's all it was!

 

THanks. At this point I am thinking to use the info in this thread to complete the drive cycles, and if it doesn't come back, go back to smog it. I might call the shop to see how many times I can bring it in on the original $40 I paid for the smog.