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1997 Frame Rehab Thread

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by DBowers01, May 21, 2018.

  1. May 22, 2018 at 5:42 PM
    #21
    E30325

    E30325 Well-Known Member

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    What's the frame look like under the cab? Does it need major work too?
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  2. May 23, 2018 at 5:11 AM
    #22
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll investigate that next. After some time poking around at the cleaned frame I found out that the back end is fried. New plan is to see how far under the cab is bad. If I can find where the rot ends I will likely be back halfing the truck, tube frame and all new attachment points (bed mounts, shock mounts, crossmembers, etc).
     
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  3. May 23, 2018 at 5:32 AM
    #23
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    You guys are missing the point. He's been given a free truck and it's a project. Sounds to me like this isn't his first rodeo and his backup plan is building a tube frame. When it's a hobby the easy way isn't the most fun or rewarding.
     
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  4. May 23, 2018 at 8:28 AM
    #24
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Exactly....thanks.

    I'm a Ranger guy at heart.....but only square body 1st and 2nd gen trucks. The light blue one in the background of a previous pic is a simple DD 2.3L, 5 speed with 100k miles on it. If the Toyota turns into a DD then I'll possibly turbo that Ranger. I've built several V8 trucks...both 2wd and 4wd. Lifted some, lowered some, boxed frames, mini tubbed, etc. My baby is a 2wd 1985, 387 Windsor, PA Comp C4, Mopar 8.75" narrowed 15" and mini tubbed. Runs 11.90's with 3.55's and 325/50-15 MT ET Street tires. A carb, gear and header change would have it going 11.40's but then I would have to cage it. It's fun right where it is.

    Hopefully tonight will shed more light on the frame situation under the cab. Does that ever seem to be an issue?
     
  5. May 23, 2018 at 8:56 AM
    #25
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    Thats bad, I can only imagine how bad the front end of the frame is. Save your time in welding and find another perfect frame. I found an extended cab though and its probably not a 97 but a later gen...:(
     
  6. May 23, 2018 at 9:16 AM
    #26
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I found a good 1992 frame. How close would that be?
     
  7. May 23, 2018 at 10:59 AM
    #27
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    Completely different trucks (1979 to 1995) prior to Tacoma. You're looking for 1995.5 to 2000 Tacoma but I think a 2001-2004 would work.
     
  8. May 23, 2018 at 12:30 PM
    #28
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    Has to be from a 95-97. if you're dedicate to reviving this truck check with https://www.tlsautorecycling.com/ . Cool peeps to talk to on the phone.
     
  9. May 23, 2018 at 12:44 PM
    #29
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I'd be doing a dis-service by not trying to revive it. New trucks cost too much money and even a used one with 47k miles is expensive. Other than one item (granted, it is a BIG item) this thing is in VERY good condition. Even if I spent $1,500 getting it roadworthy, where else would I get anything in this condition and mileage for that price.

    Time is on my side. I have a driveway full of running vehicles...three Ford trucks and two Subaru Outbacks. So the Tacoma may end up being a side chick that I work on as parts are gathered.
     
    Sweet Crude, GQ7227, E30325 and 2 others like this.
  10. May 23, 2018 at 12:59 PM
    #30
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The "wreck" was a low speed drift into another of his own cars when a brake line broke. The door seals and isn't rusted....so for now it's fine. The fender was the original owner hitting his own car in the driveway. Is it falling off....nope, so it's fine. I'm not building a show truck. If you were from the rust belt you would know what a gem this is. And if you drove it you would know that it goes straight, smooth and functions fine. Regardless of your viewpoint, that does not change my decision to tinker with a free truck. If your kid was driving it after I worked on it then your input is welcome. But since they won't and I know a thing or two about what is safe for the road, I'm consulting Toyota owner about viable options to FIX this truck. Not reason to junk it.
     
  11. May 23, 2018 at 1:03 PM
    #31
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    There's not going to be much to weld to,, like I use to tell them at work, "can't weld rust", hope you make it work.
     
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  12. May 23, 2018 at 1:04 PM
    #32
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I agree 100%. That's why it's not on the road.
     
  13. May 23, 2018 at 1:20 PM
    #33
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    I respect that, some people don't understand why we do what we do to used vehicles.
     
  14. May 23, 2018 at 1:32 PM
    #34
    lukester78

    lukester78 Well-Known Member

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    Guys like you make me feel better about the rust I'm dealing with:


    I just wish I could weld myself, I'm taking a class soon but don't plan on buying a welder for a while still. Good luck! Will be following your progress. Keep us updated!
     
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  15. May 23, 2018 at 7:22 PM
    #35
    lukester78

    lukester78 Well-Known Member

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    That's the plan. I have CBI's plates on order, might as well strengthen the whole thing now.
     
  16. May 24, 2018 at 5:12 AM
    #36
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I spent last evening beating on the rest of the frame with a chipping hammer. Under the cab, drive side has a few soft spots but certainly fixable. The pass side is like new.....very weird. I still think I'm going to open the bottom rail of the frame, empty out any crud, coat it and close it back up.

    As for the back end....I'm going to trailer the truck to a local fab shop. They are good guys and have done work for me in the past. They may be able to bend channel or box tubing to match the factory pieces and will slide inside the good rails under the cab. I just want to rails mocked up and I can handle the rest.
     
  17. May 24, 2018 at 9:31 AM
    #37
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Did you not read yesterday when I said about tube framing the back half?
     
  18. May 24, 2018 at 11:15 AM
    #38
    E30325

    E30325 Well-Known Member

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    It is strange how rust works sometimes haha, glad it's better under the cab, having a new rear frame fabbed for it sounds like a good option, I'm curious what they'll charge you for that if you don't mind saying, once you get a quote at least.
    Once you get this thing back on the road it's gonna be a sweet little driver
     
  19. May 24, 2018 at 11:19 AM
    #39
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll post up all the progress and costs that way others have something to compare with. So far I have zero invested. Title transfer will cost $100. Plan on doing the frame repairs, some new lines while the bed is off, and othet general items. I'll keep a running total
     
  20. May 25, 2018 at 10:00 AM
    #40
    DBowers01

    DBowers01 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Incurred my first expense with the Coma....not calling it a Taco. It's "Coma" until I bring it back from the dead. Title transfer was $144....not even registration....just to change names on the title. :der:

    Also went to the fab shop this morning. They can duplicate the frame rails and make some other pieces for me at a cost of "about" $500. I need to get my measurements, cut the back end off and take them one side of the frame to use as a template.

    That's all for now. Will add pics over the weekend if I get any work done.
     

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