TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Mine are equal length. Yeah bummer for a blown motor. Awesome it's being replaced.

 

You gonna get the urd y-pipe to pair up to those headers

 

@JuanitoBunito he has equal length headers but you cant get an equal length y-pipe.....you have to fabricate it like I did for myself and @loginfailed

It makes the header and y-pipe act like one tuned unit. A 6 into 2 into 1 header.

 

Just curious....what does that shiny ass thing cost to produce? It is nice.

 

I dont know all your crazy math formula shit. I always hated having the alphabet mixed in with my numbers. Anyway to answer your question post boost but pre intercooler temps will rise proportionately with boost. Post intercooler temps normally average about 20°F over ambient.

Yours may be slightly higher than that due to that beautiful intercooler heat sink you have (Figs)!

Yes, I do have pre and post intercooler temp probes.

 

Hard to say really. This one started as a URD y-pipe $450, that's the dark colored tubes and flanges. Just the rest of the mandrel bends probably $150 and another $85 for the merge collector.
BUT you also have to figure welding supplies, 2 days labor, brisket, a lot of beer! The total cost gets really confusing.

 

I hate quoting tig welded stainless exhaust systems. You gotta start factoring in gas for back purging, stainless flanges (hopefully of the v-band type), time spent fitting everything to perfection, and all kinds of little things. The one good thing is most people don’t go that route once they get the quote, don’t even get me started on the pie cut kids.

 

Fitment is everything!

 

I guess I never really understood everything that quite goes into it. But summarizing it like that, yeah I guess I can definitely imagine how it can get pricey for a quality exhaust setup.

 

Ok. So 120/100=1.2. 70/50=1.4. That’s why the boost is better at low temp. Treating the inlet air as an ideal gas should be fine. It’s 78% n2, almost 12% o2. Science, bitches! Engineering degree was a long time ago. Makes me feel better that the boost gauge doesn’t go up as high. I hate summer more.

 

I guess that makes sense....I get it now.

 

Think SNOW!

 

I figure if I'm lucky enough to find a local guy to do it it will probably be 1200-1600. Just a guess.

 

For the guys doing it for a living it goes much faster because they have all the expensive equipment, mandrel benders for the larger pieces, jigs to fit and weld it all up, etc.
I have to do it all by hand and use the truck as I fit each bend, mark and tack it in place, then fit it back on the truck, fit next piece, etc. Then when finished both pipes have to be the same length!
Here is the one on my truck. It was my first attempt. The second one went much smoother (and my welding is much better) as I had the shape of mine to go off of.


As you can see, it's not a simple s bend in the pipe but continually changing angle to provide clearance and proper length. The end of each piece has to be cut and sanded flat for fitment. If there are any gaps the weld will be crap.

 

Unless you are the legend of @loginfailed

 

I would fit that bill, that piece is absolutely beautiful. Then you can actually get a hell of a benefit from running it. First class job.

 

More money to throw in the Tacoma black hole of mods??? I ain't scared...sign me up.

 

Sign me up too, definitely

 

Could anyone remind me what the different valve body kits we have available are? I know ratiotek, and IPT, but thought there was at least one other. I am interested in increasing the shifting and clutch holding strength of the trans with the supercharger going on soon. Will be adding a larger trans cooler, CSF radiator, and doing a trans fluid flush. So looking for input on which kit to go for when I do it all at once. My truck is a heavy overland/camping rig, I don't plan to redline the engine ever, not racing. I am not looking for hard shifts to decrease 1/4 mile E.T. I am Hauling the family on long trips, doing off road trails and getting to remote camping spots. I want smooth operation, "firm" feeling, and increased load capacity like higher line pressures.

What do you all recomend?

Also, what is the preferred fluid? I've heard some recommend the standard Toyota fluid, others are going with much higher end fluid, like Amsoil, etc. Any advice on when to choose what fluid?

Thanks in advance.

 

@Roostfactor, what is the diameter of the bottom pulley? I've gone off into equation-land and I'm playing with the ratio of the harmonic balancer pulley to the supercharger pulley. I think you've already been here.