Long Travel BS Thread

you need 500/600
I have 4" top and a 18" lower. Or you can do 6" top and 16" lower but finding a 6" used 500lbs spring is hard to find. Doing 4" top an 18" will "sit higher" as I was told.
And I think I heard of some one using 12" 12" or 10" 12" which seemed to be better. Youll always squash the top tender spring.

 

so i was looking and found out method makes the double standard in 15X10 with -50 offset should i but those and sell the spacers ? idk how that would look tho

 

They look to be wrong lug pattern. If they are correct just run it. Either way a lot of work. May as well get a wider axle.

 

I always admired that truck. Wish I had 17k for another toy

 

You just have hub rings that are too small for the wheels? Not a big deal if that's all that is the matter. As mentioned you can get hub centric spacers rings to fill the gap between your wheels and the spacers, but in reality it's your conical lug nuts that center your wheel on the axle and nothing else is going to do that - tight fitting hubs make it easier to mount a wheel, but do nothing else. Your conical lug nuts will center the wheel and the ring would never bear any load once they're tightened anyway. They would have to be a press fit to do that and I have never seen any wheels that are a press fit on a hub ring for a street car or otherwise. Some people may say otherwise, but they don't know how clamping force relates to wheels being held on to hubs if they try to argue that point. I have some small plastic hub centric rings to make my wheels fit flush on the hub - you can measure the ring on your bora spacer and the hub opening on the wheel and figure out what size you'll probably need.

Snug up all the lugs evenly and torque in a star pattern.

 

been verifying shock length today. is it weird to have a 5.5inch travel shock in general? i know most kits use an 8in stroke. my MT shocks have a 4.5in stroke and 22inch extended length (top of the tophat to lower bolt center)

 

so i called bora and going to be getting new spacers that are hub centric to the oem hub to the method rim vs using hub centric ring (just don't like having to many moving parts) but now doing to a fit check on the spacers i have now not getting to many threads is that because it a 1.5 spacers ... so i drop down to a 1.25 ?

 

No


You need ET nuts

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-68037b/overview/

check the overall width of the head but that should do it.

 

ok thanks

 

Yeah basically get some extended thread lug nuts like @anthony250f said. You could also get some longer wheel studs, but that would obviously be more work and $ - most people use the Lexus IS300 studs from ARP. That would be good for you since they're 5 lug and you wouldn't have to order an extra set like guys with 6 lugs. AFAIK the width of the spacer doesn't matter - they'll just machine wider spacers more to accept the same size lug nut / stud combination.

 

DO NOT DRIVE THAT TRUCK until you get some ET lugs, Bora clearly does not make these Toyota specific like Spidertrax.

 

Mine have looked like that for thousands of miles. It looks worse than it is in mine though lol...

 

If I see a wheel rolling down the hill by my house that resembles one of yours without your truck attached I'll grab it and put it in my garage for you

 

I think I put lock tight on though lol

I better check soon

 

im not installing them just a fit check ....

 

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/d/nissan-frontier-4x4-2010/6591008594.html

 

I'm not going to bag on drop brackets, guilty of it myself in the past but using an OE CO like that is stupid because King, Fox and Icon all have drop bracket lift CO's so you can ditch the spacers that come with the drop bracket kit...

 

i believe AP sold a spacer like that to use OEM length C/Os with their LT kit.

 

Idk about 5 lugs, but I used Dorman Toyota Matrix studs on my Tacoma. Now I get a decent number of threads on the bolt on spacers and even in the front where I have to run some 5mm spacers to clear with KMCs. Also, not to beat a dead horse but hubcentric does help a bit. On my fronts if I am not careful to tighten each lug a turn at a time, the wheel ends up off center and rubs on the caliper. Mind you, I torque my wheels to 100 ft lbs.