Hondo Garage's New Thing

The wires leading to the panel also could be considered a backup. Kinda like a trailer chain/hook.

 

@BivouacCoffee
What solar panels are you using? They look like glass rigid not the slim flex panel....

 

I have a single group 31 odyssey for everything and I've been able to leave stuff plugged in for a couple months at a time. I've had the battery for almost 2 years now. But I do have a battery minder AGM that I plug in once a month. If I had a solar panel permanently installed then charging would never be an issue. If I were running a second battery, I'd consider picking up a CTEK D250S DC-DC charger w/ mppt solar charge controller.

With the CTEK it would basically maintain a completely separate system without any worry that the house battery will backfeed the starter battery. When leaving the vehicle stationary long term, you can get a perfect switch (as budget allows) single rectifier isolator to combine both batteries when charging.

 

I run the CTEK with my dual battery. Works well and easy to use

 

Ok lots of questions there. 1st off Yes it is industrial outdoor Velcro that holds 2lbs per sq in. It’s literally made from metal. It is backed up with a cable lock for security.
Yes they are ridged 100w boulder panels from Goal Zero. Our power is 100% separate with a goal zero yeti but is backed up by the PTO plugs in the bed if we are not making enough energy with solar.

 

Not sure how much good just connecting to AC once a month will really do you - if you keep everything charged up on a regular basis. But above comment is perfect. Just get an isolator so that the house battery (as opposed to the cranking battery) are isolated during use but both get charged during charging sessions (truck running or any other charging system). For simplicity, I would (will) probably only put solar onto the house battery. I'll keep the cranking battery isolated at all times using the single rectifier mentioned above to allow charging of the house battery while the truck is running. With such a system, the cranking battery should never be touched and not need trickle charged - ever - unless you're leaving the truck sit for extended periods of time in storage.

From boating experience:

1) keep the cranking battery isolated at all times! some folks don't and rely on keeping track of drainage - but this is always risky. especially on a boat (I had a 35' sailboat) where cranking the engine up could save you in an emergency situation.

2) keep the system simple. high quality parts are beneficial (for example AGM batteries!!) but the more complicated the system the more chances you have of making a mistake or having something fail.

thread jack over....

 

Also, don't mix battery types, example: Don't mix lead acid with AGM. They charge and maintain charge differently.

Anyways, who's excited for the next GFC images.... I know I am ;-)

 

I can't tell from the pics, is that silver or white?

 

I just want to see what they've worked up for the 1st gen, as we should be seeing that any time.

Nothing like not knowing exactly what you've bought until the last minute.

 

I think it's white

 

Good point! But you may be able to do it with isolators... Something i need to review... it's been a while.

Can't wait to get my GFC. It's pushed back a bit more than I thought (I guess mainly because I didn't realize I was #46 in the build queue) but I'm sure looking forward to getting it!

 

Glad I asked, because I was thinking silver.

 

Yeah.... I think it's more of an off white

 

White

Gray left White Right

Gray

 

Ok, I did it. I read through the whole thread! I feel special.
All I want to know is...if the back window is closed, the driver's side is open 1/2 way and the passenger's side is open 1/3rd of the way and I'm parked facing NNE and it's raining on a Tuesday is the bed going to get wet? And let's talk about the fan some more. Just kidding.

But seriously, this hasn't been asked:
Would the mounting points of the GFC interfere with the pins for the OEM tonneau? On a long bed? Looks like it will...can anyone confirm?

 

Just a note, the 31-pc2150 can be left alone for a couple of months with no problem. Though a consideration should be made for standard Denso rectifiers do not have a high enough charging voltage for the 31-PC2150 which is happier with a 14.6v charge, that's why I use an AGM specific charger.

I work with our County Fleet maintenance team and they also recommend against linking batteries together. The biggest issue is when a battery in the system is partially or completely drained, linking the batteries will create a large current inrush. This can damage multiple components in your system, especially things like solenoid contactors, the battery with the greater voltage and/or the empty battery. The batteries themselves are not chargers and do not provide constant current and ramp up the voltage, they charge by dumping as much current as possible with a slowly decreasing voltage, this can quickly lead to sulfation.

Avoiding multiple battery types is a non-issue if they are separated with a dc-dc charger like the D250S since its sole purpose is to charge and maintain batteries by drawing power from:

1. The Alternator
   and|or
2. Solar Panels

At no point does this specific setup have any influence with the starting battery.

Actually avoiding mixing battery types doesn't really make a lot of sense either because even batteries within a specific brand have their own considerations. IE, Odyssey 34-790 vs the 34-1500 will have different considerations as well since a 34-790 will behave like an OEM battery wrt charge characteristics but the 34-1500 will require a slightly increased charging voltage like the 31-PC2150

 

Just wondering if anyone has any data on gas mileage difference with the GFC installed?

 

Just talked to Graeme, whose name spelling I just butchered, finalizing my options. #24 should be delivered the 3rd week of June.

 

Nope, I believe Graeme is correct.

 

Same here. Build #22.