The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

I had (2) brand new older style LBJ, and (2) new LBJ with updated design. I stole the boots off the older model LBJ and fitted them onto the new ones for double protection. If you call Moog they might be able to send you a pair of the older boots. Hope that makes sense.

I do trust the joints though. Well made in U.S.A. And I've beat on them more than I care to admit.

 

That's good to hear - I wonder if they offer the same for the upper control arm ball joint. Camburg's original moog boots tore within 5k and they sent me these slip on boots that just suck...

 

Have you ever had to remove the roof track nuts? I'm trying to figure out how to do this on my ARE CX roof tracks.... it's a metal nut inside of a rounded nylon cup and I don't see how I can loosen the nuts without damaging the nylon cap...... I'm not even sure how they are tightened in the first place.

 

Just hold the nylon cup while turning the screw from the top side.

The nut is just sitting in the nylon cup.

 

I guess that makes sense..... I tried turning the cup, but didn't budge. I feel kinda dumb now. Thanks!

 

Not dumb - just overthinking!

 

This thread has been my go-to reference on the whole shackle-in-stock-hanger question, so sorry to resurrect something you completed a long time ago. I started with the ATO, but can confirm that they will not work with Dakar EL095 leafs. Note the interference between the shackle center support and the second leaf.


Come to find out from @gunny1005 that the replacement OEM shackles having part number 04483-04080 are discontinued and no longer offered by Toyota. Something about them having been caught up in the whole leaf-spring recall mess.
There is an alternative: part number 04005-65104 is a bare shackle with no bushings. And they're cheap. Have a set on the way along with the

$68 Energy Suspension- 8.2116G LEAF SPRING BSHING SET - REAR

Energy 8.2116G bushings which, as I understand it, is the only place to get the correct bushings for the naked shackles.

 

I had the same issues with my ATO shackles - would up having to use my stock ones (luckily they were replaced as part of the leaf spring recall). I'll have to look into these bare ones....

 

I put the new springs in on Tuesday, re-using my 94k mile stock shackles/bushings out of necessity. If this works, the only thing wasted will be 2/3 of the inbound Energy Suspension bushing kit...

 

Thanks for the updated info. The naked shackles are perfect! I used the poly bushing from Wheelers Offroad they sell for Dakar. It's a perfect fit.

 

Hi Crom, there is a discussion on auto trans flushes in another thread, and I wanted to again thank you for the outstanding help to provided old me a couple years ago. My transmission continues to shift flawlessly, now 24,000 miles and two years later! Most of my mileage last year was in Baja researching for a new road guide... tough conditions! See photos in the trip reports section (Off roading) on TW.
Thank you, again!

 

CROM!!!!!!!!!! Dude finally got around to the leaf spring isolators for the Dakar’s. I did it all my self but man no noise and it flexes a lot smoother. Been on my list forever and I can’t believe I waited this long to do it. I appreciate your write up and info on it. Thanks man!

 

cool you got it done. my dakar's squeaked the hole time they been on and I kind of liked it that way.. never did try to isolate them....got some new leafs in the garage to replace them..and figure they'll be just as noisy

 

It was every shift with the manual and every bump. Arb are ass hats for not putting them in all the leafs

 

Welcome! Glad to hear it. Mine are still silentt, love them!

 

Hey man, if you happen to remember I'm just curious if your Whiteline bushings visibly compressed after torquing down the LCA hardware. I think spec is 100 ft lbs and I maybe went a bit over that because the included washers are so smooth, unlike the stock bushings/washers, but I noticed the inside or skinny end of the smaller front bushings look like they compressed a fair bit and I guess I'm debating backing them off a hair before I mess them up.

This is passenger side, torqued with tires installed and on the ground which was not fun:

 

I think it's okay. I do use the factory torque spec, and torque wrench. Get an alignment, the shop will take care of alignment and retorque.

 

Cool. I'll assume you haven't had your cams slip or anything at 100 ft-lbs even with the smooth washers. Thought I read about some 1st gens having that issue and was my reasoning for going a bit over spec.

Anyway, I'm overthinking it. Thanks.

 

@BRONSON No problems, no worries. Cams stay put.

 

75,173 Miles

• Oil and filter change, Super Tech Syn went in
• Oil catch can drained
• Battery cells checked
• Put battery on charger

Notes: Fifteen months and 3,428 miles between oil changes. Had to dismount oil catch can and use heat gun to get sludge out. Nasty shit that would otherwise wind up in the intake. So f'ing glad for the can.

Picture of catch can contents.



Felt good to do some maintenance again.

Will do more as time permits.