What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Digging the ammo can mount. Do you have any info on how you did it? or is it just drill a couple of holes and mount it to the rail?

 

Sorry for confusion. Maybe all the fuses are active with ignition. But, I am not looking for a fuse, I am looking for an actual wire to tap into (regardless of how people feel about that, i don't care).
There certainly has to be a wire under the dash that is always hot.
Does ANYBODY know a wire under the dash that's always ON, please?

 

Yes just drilled two holes and mount to rails, one side you’ll need a shim, it’s fairly easy to figure out.

These are a great deal, only $25 and free shipping if you buy two. This can sits perfectly on top of the long bed wheel wells, not sure on the short bed.

They do sit about 1” above the bed rails, but looks flush from a distance. The reason I got these is because they’re easily accessible from the side of the bed and waterproof and you can lock them and black.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MInpvgyt662wIVgo7ICh3rPwqpEAkYASABEgKalPD_BwE

 

So I just installed my first switch and it was a pain since the wires were super short with the switch. Now everything works but the blue light doesn’t turn off. It doesn’t bother me but will this have enough juice to drain the battery? I don’t think so since alarms have flash leds going eight.

 

Congratulations. You have found an "always on" power wire. Now if you could just let @Eden4x2 (above) know which one it is...

As far as drain, it's all a matter of time. Let the truck sit for long enough and yes, it will drain the battery (but it will be a very long time). Generally speaking, you want to minimize the amount of current that's drawn while "off".

 

It’s a light bar that connects to the battery terminal and runs though the firewall so not a circuit. And that just solved my question of why it’s on. Haha. Now to hope it doesn’t drain battery.

 

Ah, okay. See my edited comment above.

 

Put in some Husky Weatherbeaters with custom logos from @CBoy808

Looks like OEM but better.

 

where did you get the emblems? Looks great!

 

Been trying to find that license plate frame that has "TRD" on top. Where did you get that one?

 

Had it for like 8-9 years. Honestly don't remember where I got it.

 

I've been wanting to get some lights installed when I get the time off to tinker with them.

I sure hope the wiring and such that came with my kits will have the switches cut completely off when the truck is not running. That would drive me nuts.

Running all this wiring through that firewall opening is probably going to have me cussing. Good job on you getting that done !!!

@CBoy808 has it going on for sure !!!! He really does help us customize in many ways.

Those Husky's look great in there. Cool label.

 

Going through the firewall was very easy. It’s just a rubber gasket you have to move. If I didn’t botch the wire I would redo it and run it off a fuse but it’s to much to risk right now. Haha. Also be careful when taking switches in and out. I used a knife and got that nice slice mark running across it.

 

Bummer. So it's same as a line directly to your battery . Yep, I'm looking for a circuit under the dash that I could splice into that's always hot.

 

Ebay.

Make sure you grab the 60mm version.

 

If your switch light is always on, there's something wrong with your wiring.

I looked at the wiring diagram for a typical CH4x4 switch. For the internal switch lights to work properly. One wire needs to go to a +12V (switched, off when truck is off) source, another wire goes to the "load" which is usually a relay (especially for lighting), a third wire goes to your dash lighting circuit (so the "night time" switch light only comes on when it's dark), and the fourth wire is ground. Both of these lights inside the switch ('on" and "night time") should be off a fused circuit that is off when the truck is off. If this is the case, all the internal switch lights will be off when the truck is off.

Not knowing anything about your light bar I can't be more specific. Again, generally speaking, the high-current lighting circuit (including relay) should stay in the engine bay and only one or two low-current wires need go into the cab.

 

Yeah everything is in the bay and only 3 wires came through the wall. I know how to fix it, just have to wire the power to an add a circuit. It’s just I messed up and all the wires are extra short and would just be a major pain. Better off buying a new switch. What I have works and a single led wont do enough to kill a battery so it’s fine for now. I’ll fix it when I add more.

 

What are you planning to use this for? I only ask because if it's nothing that requires a lot of power, you can tap into the +12v constant power wire on the back of the radio.

I know this link is to 2nd gen stuff, but the pinouts for the 1st, 2nd, and the 3rd gens are the same (wire colors have changed tho). Basically, you want to tap the wire attached to pin "D" in the blue connector under the "1987 and newer" section here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-radio-harness-question.347008/

EDIT: The wire is solid white for our 3rd gens as seen here:

 

Easily doubled the value of my ride with this free upgrade