Az Geek Talk

So this is the ground, doesn't look bad to me? Maybe I'm missing something.


My amp is a kicker cxa600.1. max is 600 w I believe. Today it was working then stopped again. I adjusted the gain and it still did the same thing. I don't want to take apart the dash so RCA cables will have to wait till later if I change my mind or another day. They seem kind of flimsy, maybe a better pair would affect anything?

 

If the ground is going to sheet metal then the ground is worthless. The best place is the frame. You can also ground to where the seats bolt in and it seems to be a decent ground in our trucks but it's not something I prefer to suggest.

You are always welcome to swing by and I'll take a look at it real fast to see if there is anything really out of whack. I've seen some pretty sketchy installs done by professional shops (Cough cough audio cough express cough cough, best buy, cough, cough, a place really close to a local speed shop, cough, cough).



Edit: Just saw the pic of your ground. That's not a good ground at all. Take the seat out, remove all the paint between the bracket and floor. Sand the bracket a bit as well. Use a wire terminal big enough to fit around the bolt that mounts the seat, use that as a ground.

or.

Drill a hold where this one is and run it directly to the frame. Sand the frame first. (This is what I'd do).

 

Haha!! I never let a "professional" touch my audio installs.

I would love to stop by and help

 

I'm not sure I'd use the words "professional" and "best buy" in the same sentence.

 

No it was Fry's electronics, they were the closest to me so I went with them. I'm going to try the seat rail ground method and see how that goes. Do I have to only sand the one bolt where it meets the rail and floor, or the whole thing?

 

Makes sense to me. I mean I worked at best buy as an installer when I was 16-17. I didn't do the greatest installs but I had a master installer that taught me so much. Still, if he saw me ground to sheet metal like that I'd of had that Kicker amp shoved up my ass sideways. Hard guy to work for because he had his standards and methods, which all were correct.

Sand whatever it takes to make it bare metal against bare metal. No paint, coatings, rust, or anything else should be in contact with the ground. If you have a longer cable you can always run a temp ground back to the neg on the battery and see if your amp works.

 

I need to do this.

 

So would this bolt be a good spot?

 

Sand everything down real good and it should help.

 

Is it possible the amp could've died if it wasn't connected to a good ground?

 

New Spyro coming out in September. Trilogy remastered http://www.spyrothedragon.com/#buy?...search&utm_source=google&utm_term=spyro-Broad

 

Yes it's possible it may of died or been damaged to not having a good ground, but I doubt that's the case. Is it still not outputting power correctly?

 

so pumped for this! been waiting for this and the Crash remaster!

 

You get this figured out bud? If not, I'm off for 12 days starting Saturday morning. It could be a few different things, you said its going into protect mode right?

 

OK guys, wanting affirmation that I am building a great media/plex server for the best price. I haven't had to build a computer in... well a long time.

I want something with a passmark of 12k or higher. That will be overkill at this point, but as the kids get older and each end up with their own devices to stream. I do have one remote connection and when my parents move back to the states, I am sure I will have them connecting too. I figure 6 streams/transcoding should be fine. I will also be running Sonarr and Radar with Sabnzbd for video management. All my media files are already on a NAS, so don't need much space. Also, I want something that will run strong for 10 years with minimal upgrading.

OS: Linux... have decided on which build just yet.

CPU: AMD RYZEN 5 1600X 6-Core 3.6 GHz

MB: MSI B350M Gaming PRO AM4 AMD B350 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard (Model:B350M Gaming PRO) <- Has nic and HDMI, seeing video will just be OS management, I don't need a video card.

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400

CPU, MB, and Ram are in a bundle on newegg

Case: Thermaltake Core V21 Black Extreme Micro ATX Cube Chassis

Power Supply: CORSAIR CX-M Series CX550M 550W

CPU Cooling: Corsair Certified CW-9060024-WW Certified Hydro Series H80i V2 Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 120mm I don't need liquid cooled, but this is refurbished (with warranty) and the price is the same as a heatsink and fan

HD: WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD

Like I said, I am going for overkill is a small form factor. Suggestions on changing anything out for something better or affirmation that these are good choices is appreciated. Money is an issue, this build is right at $700 on newegg, I don't really want to go much above that.

Please and thank you.

 

I run a Mac Mini Server with a i7 at 2.4 gigahertz with 16 gigs of RAM. I can serve up to 6 people without any problems and some are streaming a 4K UHD file that's about 50gb running off USB HDD's. The processor is running hard but it still has no problem doing it. You just set limits of how much bandwidth everyone gets.

 

Everything ordered. My old mid 2009 aluminum MacBook has been begging to be retired for a while, in about two weeks, it will have its wishes granted.

Leaning towards CentOS 7 but maybe proxmox, just don’t think I will get that crazy with my server.. I use to assist Unix admins in patching, but never managed my own system. I always have one setup in vm on my laptop for testing and playing around.

My internal it geek is having so much fun with this. I will be watching for the men in brown all week.

 

Starting to have some network issues and not sure what to do.
Currently have a Netgear N450 modem/router then added a Linksys router EA6350 so I could seperate my TV stremaing from my phone/ipad. It was in hope of having better streaming but that is not working out well.
Now I am having issues of slow connections with my Mac that is hardwired to the modem. I do run a VPN but that has been running for a year now.

Looking for advice for a fast and secure network for computer/TV streaming and iPad. Trying not to spend too much money.

 

Quick Questions.

Do you have any google home/chromecasts or Amazon Echo's on this network?
Wifi Smart plugs? Or WiFi Smart devices (lightbulbs, switches, plugs, etc)
Is NAT turned on both routers?


Reason I'm asking is since I've introduced WiFi smart plugs and 8 Amazon Echo's to my network all sorts of weird flooding has been happening. I run one main router and 3 AP's right now (4th AP just died last night but it was in my shed so no worries there).

Modem/Router combo's have never been powerful. Anything all-in-one is always going to lack when it comes to performance.

Does your Linksys support AP mode? If so I'd go out and buy a modem and router separate. Get a Linksys Router, use the old one for an AP and run a wire to it vs using wireless AP mode. This is what I'm doing and I always have at least 40+ connected users and a VPN running all the time.

It's hard to say what might be happening but if you have two routers with two different subnets then they might be fighting or having a hard time talking to each other.

 

I believe the llinksys supports it but have not messed with that much yet. I do have it connected to the modem/router. Thinking it may be the modem having issues. I am able to use my ipad and phone with ease but the main Mac has slowed down and the streaming has always been a crap shoot. Going to take a better look at it tonight and try and make a decision by the weekend if I am going to change/upgrade anything.