3rd Gen. new audio build thread.

After looking at all the specs, pricing and fit options I chose to go a different route than the popular Kicker build.

This will be the install, I'll be sure to get pics up and note any issues.

Dynamat for all four doors, sub will be in a .46 cubic foot sealed box.

Total cost as shown, including Dynamat and sub box = $364


Dash corner:
Rockford Fosgate Prime

$45 R1T-S 1" Tweeter Kit (Pair)

R1T-S


Front door:
Rockford Fosgate Prime

$90 R169X2 6"x9" 2-Way Full Range Coaxial Speakers (Pair)

R169X2



Rear Door:
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S



Mono Sub Amp:

$280 Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D


Subwoofer:

$150 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-8 8" Punch P2 500W 2-Ohm DVC Car Audio Subwoofer Sub with Reinforced Paper Cone and Flexfit Basket

Rockford Fosgate P2D2-8

 

Just using a LOC off the stock headunit? Doing any signal processing?

 

Nope, speaker level out to the sub amp via a ********* plug and play harness.

 

Boxes piling up...nice to see they still do birth certificates.

 

Sub is wired and mounted...a little 8 AWG overkill.

 

I've been looking at these speakers too. I've Rockford Fosgate speakers in my mustang and they sound great. These have a low power rating and a high sensitivity so they should sound decent with the factor head unit.

 

Thanks to vietjdmboi for custom printing the tweeter adapters. They fit like a glove and work perfectly with the Rockford Fosgate mounting collars.

I can finally hear cymbals and highs again lol.

 

Any pics of the sub box?

 

I'll get some up.

Working on getting the speakers mounted in the adapters, gaskets on, and wiring harnesses getting wrapped.

 

Awesome!! I may follow in your steps on this one! Looking forward to seeing it all in

 

Subd

 

Total output for this setup?

 

Stock headunit running the doors, amp for the sub is running at 4ohms so 300 watts.

 

The "universal fit" Metra adapters from Crutchfield universally fit jack shit. Took me three hours to get them to actually mate up solid and work properly.

Gaskets installed between the speaker and adapter, I'll have another gasket and Dynamat on the doors. Wiring harnesses are wrapped in matching OEM loom.

 

Links to the gasket tape and wire loom.

25ft - 1/4 inch Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black – Alex Tech braided cable sleeve

$8 25ft - 1/4" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JH14WZ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_sHVlBbP1Z3NXN

Parts Express Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll

$22 Parts Express Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPLPM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_YEVlBbBCKBKZN

 

Subd as well! I’m looking at different routes to upgrade my speakers. Ran a 10in kicker in the back in my 2ng gen to give more of the bass

 

Two quick tips. Lots of people have had issues with the door lock and lever cables when they remove the door panels.

Don't remove the cables from the housing, just pop the entire housing free.

 

Tip two....you MUST seal the speaker to the door with some type of gasket. If you don't you're saying goodbye to any hope of decent midbass. If you swapped your speakers and wonder why the OEM had more punch this is one reason why.

The OEM speakers are recessed slightly and gasketed to mate up with the door. Use the gasket tape I linked above or an equivalent. The universal adapters aren't flush or recessed and will leave massive gaps.

OEM speaker with gasket and lip to seal to door...and Rockford Fosgate replacement with gasket tape mounted.

 

Looks good. I'm gonna base my setup off of your thread only thing is I bought a head unit.

 

Hey DB, did the harness do the trick? Recommend it??

LINK?