2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh

I believe thin oils are hard on timing chains and sprockets too.

GF-6A will require additives that help here, while being fuel efficient.

I am flummoxed by the idea that '05-06, etc 2TR FE was spec'd for 5W30, while now it's 0W20.

Great, great stuff, Loxsl. Out.

 

All about gas mileage. Nothing about engine protection. Sadly.

 

Agreed. And in a vehicle with legendary durability. WTF.

 

You live in California you should know all about stupid car laws.

On that note. You may be fine running 5w30. Oil weight has more to do with oil clearances then anything. I'd be surprised if the new engine is any tighter then the 05-06. They're pretty tight as is.

 

LOL.

Back in 2010, I got to meet The Man.

His official title is State of California Smog Referee.

 

I would have gave you my old valves, there was nothing wrong with them. I got the others trying to upgrade but the stock seems to be the same.
Looking good

 

It's been a pretty busy week and I have a big update coming but first does anyone know what this is or what connects to it?

The bar with the port on the end? I'm thinking for oil pressure testing.

 

Block drain for coolant

 

Ah ok thanks.

 

Ok so here's where I'm at after the last 3 or 4 days.

Got the valve seals in, valves in, head on, rockers and cams in.


Then I set the timing. It was nice to not have to put all that balance shaft crap back in.



Then some gasket maker and all the covers, pans, and such plus all of the pulleys I painted.



I had to change the trust bearing for the clutch and had to pull the slave as I may or may not have pressed the clutch peddle when there was no clutch in it. Had to put the insides back in. Also bolted on the new LCE Performance clutch.



I wish I had more pictures of this process but anyone who has done an engine install knows its a lot of slow moving and checking clearances then fussing until the trans is lined up and everything is in place.

It's in!!!



Lastly, where I am at now is attaching the starter some wiring and adding oil to do a quick compression test. Also had to fix my dip stick tube as it was a little mangled from removal.




I'll let you guys know how she is a little later.
John

 

Looks snazzy with those black accessories!

 

@05Taco4x4

I have all of your valve spring info now. You may have found this somewhere else by now but here you go.

Loose height 48.1mm
OD 24.45mm
Installed height 36.1mm
Bind 24.24mm
Lift 10.59mm

Cam lift as measured was .233in or 5.92mm. I also measured the rockers at approx. 34mm overall and 19mm from lifter to roller.

Using my Google Fu I have determined the distance to be DO/DI = dO/dI

so DO/5.92mm = 34mm/19mm

or DO = 5.92mm(34mm/19mm)

DO = 10.59mm or .417in

feel free to correct anything I messed up.

 

That's a beautiful thing, you've done a great service for the community sir!

 

Well, not great. Compression was from Cyl 1 to 4, 130, 190, 0, 190.

If I had the timing off or something like that I wouldn't get 2 cylinders at 190 so I think the few valves I took .006 off are hanging open. My plan right now is pull the valve cover and cams then take the tappets for the exhaust valves on cyl 1 and 3 and grind like .004 off of those. If that doesn't fix it then I'm confused.

 

Thats curious..

I figured the lash taken up by the "lifters" would be enough to compensate for .006

 

I thought about it a little. There is a max length spec but not a min. The lifters may get pressed down to the bottom of their travel when the cam is down, then when the cam is back up the lifter moves up to take up the slack to eliminate noise. So if the valves are a little short they just don't open as far but if they're long they could end up not fully closing.

I can't come up with another reason to have zero compression in one cylinder.

 

Have you checked the valve lash?

 

No, mostly because I became lazy after the compression test, but also my feeler gauges at home dont go very low, and the rocker doesn't give much room. I may find a way to check it though

 

I bet that because you ground off on the valves, that now they are higher towards the rocker. Reducing or eliminating the necessary lash.

 

Yeah that's why I was thinking of taking it off the tappets