Long Travel BS Thread

yeah
RD1. Baja shits
RD2. Total chaos Race
RD3. Solo XLT 4.5 and 4 link

didnt plan on a round 3 but thats what happens when your factory rear diff/axel goes boom

 

I'm trying to figure out how a blown up rear axle necessitates a new front end, but I'm drawing a blank. Last I checked they were opposite ends of the vehicle. All this time your truck is in the shop can't be doing much to help others, except the shop owners.

 

rear axle is unrepairable.
so i required a fully aftermarket replacement such as a currie or camburg
i had to make a decision
buy twice or buy once

so
i can buy once at 66" wide wms
or 70" wms
if i bought the 70" it is then too wide to keep the current +2 kit
so the only option was buy either a 3.5 or the 4.5
so following the mindset of buy once cry once and not wanting to ever do this again i saved up the cash to buy the rear end and 4 link it
and selling all the old stuff is affording me the option of paying for the 4.5 kit with very little out of pocket.

So

TLDR
wider rear end meant needing a wider front
investing now instead of doing a round 4 later
Also
There are two of us so far who work together to cover for the other when one of us is busy,
That way one of us is always available to cover our responsibilities
I have the taco
My best friend has an F150 and a mustang

 

what makes short course more dailyable? If your on the buy once cry once trend do normal links??? Why have a 18” front kit and only short course links in the back? Just doesn’t make sense

 

Custom Radio Flyer $550 OBO

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/custom-off-road-radio-flyer-wagon.553346/#post-18012655

 

Badass

 

Because the mounting for short course vs traditional is exactly the same minus tabs for putting the coilovers on the axel

So
When I have another 3k I could put on normal links

And short course should still pull 20-25 from any of the shops I’ve talked to

 

Yeah but $550 and no suspension?

 

If you had any idea how much the parts alone cost, you would not be saying that.

 

I was building and selling these about 10 years ago for $500 all day long. People will by them and parts are expensive!

 

Possibly, and to each their own. But I don't see spending that much on a wagon

 

Cool story bro

 

Anyone know of a great inner tie rod joint for 1st gen? I rebuilt my entire front end recently (if it moves it's new) and I've already chewed through the oem ones that came on the Toyota roller rack.

Here's a cool pic so more people read this.

 

What’s the extra 3k for? U can run those ibp’s by themselves without a bypass... and if everything is the same why not do it traditional?

 

Hiemed steering

 

3k is the cost of the trailing arms themselves

48” links with dual shock mounts all tig welded chrome moly

 

I have heim outters now. I guess i could make a clevis adapter for the rack. Then its just harsher on the rack. Howe is the next step beyond that. The rabbit hole continues.. Eating inners is still better than changing racks for now.

 

3k for trailing arms is absolutely retarded

 

Camburg makes a clevis... and I you built a slider tube thing like a lot of people do for first gens to keep the strain off the rack you’ll be fine

 

I know it’s cool and all but for anyone except elite racers is chrome moly completely tig welded really necessary? Use mild steel and have it mig welded and I would be surprised if you could break them and you would save a ton of money.

Same goes for the bed cage. A competent welder could use mig and make a bed cage out of DOM tubing and it isn’t going to break. Sure it will be a tad heavier and you won’t be able to put chrome moly tig welded on your build page but are you racing the Baja 1000 against other elite drivers or driving down forest roads by yourself for fun/work.