3rd Gen Owners with King Coilovers

The 600, 650, and 700 Refers to the amount of weight that it takes to compress the spring 1” (I think). Haven’t been keeping up with the thread, but if your truck doesn’t have much added weight, you’re going to want to stick with the 600.

 

Lol same scenario but went to vista the week after haha

 

Oh I see, well I have the 600 but do have plans of adding a bumper and winch in the future... will I be ok with the 600s?

 

Sexy!

 

It's going to sag a little. I have 650s and 14" springs instead of the standard 13" springs and 600 spring rates. Less preload and it's setup for the front bumper and winch on my setup. 700s is preferred but I'm not convinced after seeing it on my buddies Tacomas and riding with them.

 

I should’ve asked early, what are you putting on the rears, or did you post that earlier?

Also, looks like you have a set of SCS wheels? Which ones did you go with, or did you post that already as well and I wasn’t paying attention?

 

Are you leaving the sway bar on, or taking it off? If your removing it, a stiffer spring will help with the role, or at least it seems to on mine. I hardly notice it’s been removed and I’m running a 700# coil. I do have a steel bumper with a winch.

 

Built it for a good friend of mine. For on road drivability, I left the sway bar on. Finished product-

 

If you already have everything and are happy with the ride, I would just stick with the 600 until you get the bumper. Then look into bumping up to 650 or 700. I'm planning on doing the same in a year or two. If I time it right I'll need to be rebuilding the shocks when I get the bumper and can switch the springs out then.

 

Ohh man that sounds like a good plan. I kinda was looking at gettin the bumper fairly soon, but I actually love the way it looks now. Plus I should probably slow down and stop pouring money into the truck, It’s only 6 months old lol but it so hard to stop.

So if I’m understanding correctly, I wouldn’t have to buy a whole new shock? Just swap out springs?

 

Yes, you just need to swap out the springs. I know what you mean, once you get going its hard to stop the spending.

 

Have any idea how much the springs cost? Lol

 

I thing they are around $75 to $100, but not totally sure.

 

I have king extended with adjusters all around with TC arms and Dakar leafs from DSM. Question tho, I believe I have a 600 spring and I have 11-11.5 threads showing on driver and 10-10.5 threads on passenger side. My 285/70/17 still rub it looks like the cab mount coming off the driveway with the wheel turned. I’ll post some pics but what’s everyone running as far as threads showing with the 600 spring. No weight up front. My wheels are Scs with -10 offset. It was a pain in the ass to adjust these. I hope I’m right on target but not sure if the springs have settled yet or not. How much rubbing are you guys getting on the cab mount with this setup? Thanks

 

I'm running the same setup with the same wheels in 285-16s. I rub more on the front bumper than I do on the cab mount. I could probably crank up the coilovers and get away without the cmc. I dont want to mess with ride quality and even doing that I'll still rub offroad so I'm just going to bite the bullet and have it done.

 

Have you done a CMC? You might have too much of a negative off set on your wheels. I have the SCS wheels as well, but did a large CMC with no rub. I’ve read that some have issues with the SCS wheels rubbing even with the CMC.

 

I do not have the CMC done yet but I ordered the plates from bamf and another thing is I haven’t gotten it aligned just yet either and I know it’s way off so not sure if that is contributing. Right now Im hoping the 11ish so threads on the driver side is good enough. Are people going more than that? I am currently not rubbing but it’s about a 1/16th to 1/8th from it and like I said if I turn and hit a decline it will rub. I’m just trying to compensate for any settling too. Ya there is a lot of offset with these wheels so it’s def not helping me! Looks awesome tho. So you guys think I should leave it here or go one more turn in that would expose about 12ish threads. I think that would give me at least an 1/8 to 1/4 from the cab mount. Then align it and should be good. Well, then do the cmc just for extra clearance.

 

I’m not an expert on these matters, so take it with a grain of salt, but I would recommend a CMC and take everything you can. Then have them push the wheel as forward as possible with the alignment. At least that’s what I did and I have no rubbing on the CMC at full lock. When the tires are stuffed I do get some rub on the inner fender plastic but WTF! It’s plastic.

 

I cut back a lot of my plastic already. I def want the cmc done. When u say push the wheel forward how is this achieved? How many threads show on your coil overs at the top? Thanks

 

Pushing the wheel forward was a suggestion another TW member gave me, when I was trying to get 315’s to fit, the shop doing the alignment seemed to know what that meant. Unfortunately, that’s the best description I can give you.

I don’t recall if you said you replaced the UCA or not, but I believe it’s accomplished through the UCA. I have the TC uniball upper. Someone with more knowledge might be able to explain better.

I have about an 1-1/4” of threads showing on mine.