Jerzsubbie's 2018 Cement DCSB TRD OR **Lots of PICS & Links**

Facebook Group "Queen City Offroad Toyota"

 

Outstanding! I'm looking for more people to go out with.

 

Another decent local group on there is Carolina Tacomas, we met up with some of those guys on way home from URE at a Taco place by Concord Mills

 

I'm on Carolina Tacomas but I haven't seen any URE meets, probably not looking hard enough though.

 

Here you go, you can check this out also:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/uwharrie-national-forest-ure-permanent-thread.485479/

 

I'm tracking it's there

 

Dual USB Outlet w/ Volt Meter
I’ve had this sitting around for a couple months and finally installed it today.
Only $13 on Amazon

MICTUNING Dual USB Charger Socket 2.1A & 2.1A Power Outlet with Digital Voltmeter Blue LED Light 12-24V for Car Boat Marine Mobile

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4OKBSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OO1uBb9DFNKNV
Or if you prefer no volt meter, only $11
I plan on installing this one in the rear of the console.

MICTUNING Dual USB Charger 4.2A with Blue Light Compatible for Cell Phone, Tabet, GPS for Car Boat Motorcycle Marine

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D8CQYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-O1uBbG8WKZZT

Why
I don’t like that the factory USB outlet connects to the truck yet doesn’t allow me to play Amazon Music. So I have to play it via Bluetooth. The truck only wants to play music from iTunes, which I absolutely hate and refuse to use.

As a work around, I use the factory add-on phone charging kit that includes a dual USB adapter for the 12V cigarette port. I dislike how far this combination stick out though.

Install
I was a little stumped as to how the factory 12V socket would come out and looked up a how to thread of installing the Mesojdm switch panel. To my disappointment, installing that involves taking apart a large portion of the dash and console.
Thankfully the comments lead on that to simply get to the switched you only need to remove the radio trim, loosen the head unit, and remove the climate control stack. This took maybe 5min, super easy if you’ve ever taken apart interiors.
Getting the socket out was a little more difficult. It’s held in by two tabs at 3 & 9 o’clock. I just got a small flathead on the 3 o’clock tab and pushed it in while pushing the socket of from the backside. Be careful not to damage the switch panel.
Disregard the red and white usb cables below.


I didn’t want to cut the factory connector so I made a little jumper harness with space connectors. The purple wire is power, white/Black is ground.


I didn’t even need to use the backing nut for the new outlet, the switch panel hole is the perfect size to just “snap” in. It’s very secure, held in by the threaded body of the socket.

Finished product! Now my passenger’s knee won’t hit my 12V socket adapter and I have a volt meter in case I’m ever curious.
The display doesn’t show up well in pics.

 

Any updates on rear diff?? That seems absurd that they wouldn’t replace the seal?? Beautiful truck!

 

Basically they insisted that Toyota wouldn’t cover replacing the seal and that the fluid level was good. They claim Toyota fills it with the exact amount and that amount may not get to the fill hole.
I’m much more comfortable with the fluid level being at the fill hole as every mechanic knows it should be.

 

I’m about 5mo behind on updates! Here we go...

July I learned what happens when you get to “0 miles to empty”.


Got really consumed with mountain biking over the summer, kicking my own butt a few times a week in an attempt to get back in decent shape.
In September I got a new YT Jeffsy 29!

 

In October I began taking action to solve for my biggest disappoint with my truck. The damn JBL audio isn’t very good but worse than that is that the piss-poor sub removes the largest interior storage space.

I need discreet behind the seat storage for things like a GHB, IFAK, folding saw, and possibly fire extinguisher and AR pistol.

I really like the aluminum MOLLE panel that another TW member makes but hard to swallow at $265 shipped.


For starters I began seeing what is behind the seats and what needs to be done to fab my own panel out of HDPE or ABS.


I used some poly cardboard to mock up what I would need to make my own panel.


From here I realized I needed a panel of ABS or HDPE that is 51”w x 24”h. Obviously this poses a small issue in that most material comes in 48x24. So this took a back seat while I was explored alternatives.

 

In late October, I installed an RTMR to keep my accessory wiring much cleaner, safer, and to simplify hooking up additional accessories as I plan on adding some LED pods.

I bought the RTMR pre-wired on eBay during one of their 15% off sales. I then added a Bussman breaker, grounding bar, and aluminum mounting plate from Paranoid Fab. The plate requires moving the little relay that is behind the main fuse box to a new location closer to the firewall, not a big deal.


Before


After


I’m very happy with how it all turned out. I routers the switch wires into the cab, to the little cubby left of the steering wheel. I routed all accessory power wires just in front of the battery where there is a little more room.

 

The following weekend I mounted some rear LED pods, installed a CH4x4 switch, and 3D printed a switch panel found on Thingiverse.

Auxbeam LED Spot Pods mounted on custom steel mounts that are coated in bed liner.

 

For Christmas, a family member got me some Auxbeam Philips LED spot pods from my Amazon wishlist. So I got some ditch light brackets on Amazon for $35 as I refuse to pay $60 for the Rago or Caliraised brackets. They are working out great and are excellent quality.

Brackets:

6KLED BK90020 offroad LED Ditch Lights Bracket Fit Tacoma 2016 2017 2018 2019 trucks Flood Spot cube

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGLSLFD



For daily driving I added some amber diffuser lens covers to protect against rocks. Better to break $7 covers than $40 lights.

Covers:

$10 OZ-USA 3" Amber Diffused Flood Lens Cover for POD Cube Lights Fog dust Off Road Motorcycle Truck 4x4 SUV ATV (1 Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CFQ27N




HIDs and LED fogs


HIDs and LED highs


LED pods only


These have a nice hot spotlight pattern like I wanted. I used my garage door at about 15ft to aim the lights and made a ven diagram to ensure they would be aimed together at longer distances.

When hooking up the switch, I made a simple little harness so that the switches can share a common ground, illumination, and power wire, then I simply hook the accessory wire up to the RTMR switch wire. Doesn’t look the greatest in the pics but works great!


Lastly, I used the below connectors to hook up the lights and keep it super clean. They work great.

Connectors:

$9 MUYI 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector 1.5mm Series Terminals Water Resistend

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2

 

And bringing us up to date, the past couple days I decided to finally pull my subwoofer, listed it for sale, and began installing sound deadening on the rear wall since I notice a lot of road noise from back there.

No more sub. Pulled the seats completely out so that I could more easily install the sound deadening mat. It was surprisingly simple to do, only like 10 bolts.


I have to retain the amp since the JBL HU doesn’t have an amp for the speakers. It relies upon this amp to power all speakers and the sub, and it has a crossover built in so for the time being I will have zero bass.

After removing all clips/wires, rear window motor, and both side panels, I began installing the Siless butyl sound deadening mat.

Siless 80 mil 18 sqft Car Sound Deadening mat - Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener - Noise Insulation and Vibration Dampening Material (80 mil 18 sqft)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7G9GV8

I used paper to make templates for my cutouts.


Then applied the first piece


A couple hours later I had this


Next up was to decide how and where to mount the amp. I considered mounting it inside the under seat storage compartment as I saw another member do but I realized it would be much easier and still out of my way to just mount it against the wall where the sub used to be.
I modified one of the amp brackets to fit to an existing bolt hole and added some CCF to the back of the amp to prevent rattles/vibration. The amp sticks out no farther than the horizontal support that goes across the back wall.


Next was to install the closed cell foam sound deadening mat on top of this.

$24 uxcell 315mil/8mm 16.36sqft Universal Car Heat Insulation Pad Underlay Foam Self-Adhesive Sound Deadening and Auto Dampening Mat 60"x 40" Black Cotton Blends

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KAD24RI
The foam and butyl mats work together to absorb different sounds, plus the foam being black provides a clean monochromatic look if I do end up going with some sort of MOLLE storage panel or similar.



I installed the CCF as a single piece, 16sqft and let me tell you this stuff is a little tricky to work with! Making the necessary cuts was tough and I figured out too late that you must use a new sharp blade to make clean cuts on this stuff. The adhesive is very tacky and will stick to your hands just trying to work with it.
I was careful to make cut outs for the rear window motor, cab vents, amp, and seat hooks. Like I said though, make sure to use a fresh blade.

The 15-16sqft of each material was the perfect amount to do the back wall and the floor almost to the under-seat storage compartment.


Now this thread is all caught up. Next up will be installing my new JBL Club speakers front and rear followed by my rear wall storage solution and the rest of my audio solution.

 

I finalized my audio plan so I began buying things as I find smoking deals.

I just got my JBL Club 6x9 components for the front and Club 6.5” coaxials for the rear.

Still need to buy:
PAC AmpPro
Kicker Key compact 4ch amp
Knukonceptz wiring
Metra speaker harnesses
Kicker Hideaway sub/amp (possibly)

 

This thread should be titled ‘The and Macgyver build’.. so damn meticulous and well thought out.. I’m over here still dragging my knuckles

 

So, is the cab quieter now? I’m looking to do some sound proofing on mine soon. I can’t take the loud tires, it’ll be worse when I switch to MT’s.

 

I wanted to give it a few days with the seats back in before providing feedback on the noise reduction and I haven’t had a chance to do that yet. Work has been crazy this week as I knew it would be.

However, I can say that I learned the majority of the noise actually comes through the cab vents. Those things are loud! Today I tested some 1/8” open cell foam just placed over the vents, still allowing them to operate, but the foam acting as a baffle, if you will. This definitely made a big difference. I’m now trying to find some black open cell foam that is 1/8-1/4” and inexpensive so that I can cut pieces out to cleanly cover the vents. I want to make sure it still looks clean and not like a hack job.

@Hookedup haha thanks. I’m not very creative so I end up finding multiple different solutions and trying to take the best bits and pieces from those to suit my needs. I’m also cheap and enjoy DIY, even if it doesn’t work out, I’ll learn something so that’s OK.

 

Hey Jerz,
I was inspired and motivated by your build and sound proofing...so I decided to gut my 2019 TRD Voodoo Pro. Just picked up 3 weeks ago!!

I installed a dual exhaust MBRP Black series and loving the sound but looking to do away with drone sound and outside noise.

My set up is similar to yours and I'll be following your thread for awhile. Lol

I'll be looking to upgrade my JBL speakers soon but they definitely sound better with the sound deadening. Which speaker so you recommend but the amp might be little complex due to crossovers.. At 30% the music is loud already in my cabin with tighter bass and mids. And blocks outside dramatically by 77%.. IMO..

Keep up the good work, keep us posted with your great upgrades and stay safe out there bro..