San Diego BS Thread.

Sorry late to the game just adding my .02 and I bought a t4r and didnt shop a turd gen i mean third gen

I was amazed at the 10k price difference between the ORP vs the Pro, just for suspension there is no way I cant do the same suspension upgrade for less than 5k+. Not sure if they offer an offroad premium tacoma

I agree with the suspension vs king, but you can get sweet shocks that are better for less than 5k right? You Understand shocks more than I so you would know. Is it worth the extra money when all it is is suspension mark ups? Pleather seats are nice, its why im guilty of going premium and ive never had em. But for the same offroad system with just nice seats and an overpriced albiet superior than basic king suspension, is it truly worth the extea money

Out of state is a good way to go if you want a pro. Tried to do that w the runner getting a cement ‘17 pro but only cause in texas they were selling for 12k less than cali and they have two surf parks in tejas...unfortunatey i wasnt the only one looking for cheap cement t4r pros

 

You can do a lot with 5k in suspension but if you’re trying to have a superior setup to what is on the Pro you’d have to throw some change down. Your standard King/Fox coil overs are not going to do it, at least in my opinion.

The main reason I say this is ride comfort within the ride zone. A bypass allows you to valve the piston very stiff yet still have a comfortable ride in that zone. Once you blow through the primary ride zone you cut out the bypass channels and you get your full valving. That’s essentially how you can tune a “bump zone.” It allows you to keep a relatively comfortable ride but still be able to take a hit.

The internal bypasses that King/Fox have also use valve shims for the bypass channel. This regulates the amount of fluid bypassing he piston depending on the amount of pressure. You have a lot more variables working for your ride comfort than a standard coil.

Again, I’m not saying I would pay the HUGE markup for the Pro, I’m just saying that people need to be more aware of what they are saying, before you say it.

This is also why valving your coil is so damn important. People really don’t realize the difference between a properly tuned shock in any application. You can do a lot with the valving on a standard CO but you have to be willing to take the time to do it or pay someone else. That’s why there are companies such as Accutune Off Road and others that offer those services.

 

Agreed on valving as I have learned that the hard way...i also agree with the comfortable ride that those shocks offer. All im saying is cant you do it for less than 5-10k? I bet you could buy them and install the same set up for 3-4k if the shocks are super fn pricey. Toyota wants too much imo. But valving is critical for sure, and definitely something I have been focusing on more since I dont have resis in the front and should be concerned about oil degredation and valving. The larger weight coils I have help, but ultimately valving will be the only way to solve my personal suspension issues. I really enjoy learning about it too.

 

Did you use a manilfold gauge set to check the high and low ? If a entire 20oz can went in then it may be pretty overcharged.

The system only holds 22oz, and I highly doubt that you only had 2oz in there as that would mean you had a major leak.

 

Oh absolutely, paying that much of a mark up because of the badge is insane. I really don’t know what the Pro offers other than the suspension that the OR doesn’t. Couldn’t tell you, but for the 2k more than @pooberto paid, I’d probably take it.

It’s not Toyota wanting too much, it’s the dealer markup. It’s the sales manager at the dealer saying, “these trucks are a hot item and people will pay 5-10k more than the MSRP so we are going to sell them for that much.” Same with the Raptors. They MSRP for 70kish but with a 12k “dealer package” they sell all day long for high 80-90k. You see them a dime a dozen too.

 

You can get a 2010 raptor for a bit over 10k now,lol. Probably can’t get get a 2010 stock tundra that cheap

 

That’s crazy. They are badass trucks too.

Granted the first gen Raptors weren’t quite as expensive off the show room. Like 60k?

 

All about the new trucks. Think they were about 60 k new back then. They sure depreciate fast once the new better one comes out. Not our trucks for some reason

 

Diesel trucks have huge price tags too. Banks financing up to 7 years on car loans is letting people buy trucks they can’t afford. Similar to the 08 housing bubble.

 

Shocks, interior, grill, head lights, tail lights... All things people drop mad cash on... And in 2017 color, love my cement. With that said, I'd never pay any dealer markup. MSRP was bad enough.

 

You definitely did it right by going out of state. I shopped around and managed to get dealer invoice on my t4r and paid 5k+ less than most people. But w the premium t4r all thats different is the suspension, wheels n tires. Not worth it imo. I love the cement color, tried hard to find one but was just a bit too slow, and my taco needed desperately to not be a dd. Definitely not saying you shouldnt get the truck you want! Life is short, drive what you love.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacomabeast-west-coast-bound-at-eibach.547016/

Anyone heading up to this on Saturday? Probably gonna leave by 730 to try and get a good spot.

 

The gauge read 15% (as I recall) so it was nearly zero and way down in the refill range. The AC has been fine for over 8 years and only recently was not as cold and the air was humid coming out. That it was not at 0 and a visual inspection of the line and compressor showed no obvious leaks was a good omen that it simply was low on freon.
I totally trust Jason's work... I have known him for many years and even though others have frequently praised his work, I still can't say enough about his honesty and knowledge of what he does. @Speed Freek for the win!

 

Its fine, not overcharged, was just super low, pretty much empty. This is typical of what I see on older vehicles, they tend loose pressure over time in some occasions' since some may have a super tiny leak but over a long period of time they will slowly loose pressure, which eventually results in the compressor clutch not even engaging.
It blew no cold air whatsoever. Now you can transport penguins in it and they would probably be wearing jackets!

Trust me I stayed at a Holiday Inn the night before just to make sure! Haha

 

Makes sense. I didn’t know it blew no cold air! I just replaced my compressor but still feels like the ac sucks. Especially at idle! In 80-90 degree weather it blows only 60 ish degrees out the vent

 

60?? Thats no good.
Did you use a vacuum pump to pull any air from the system before you charged it? That can make a substantial difference, it will also not blow cold if overcharged (did that on my own truck trying to get it to blow ice cubes and that was a failed attempt, lol.)

Was your compressor new or rebuilt? In my experience I have had more bad rebuilt compressors than working units! Pretty frustrating after considering all the work to install and charge one....

Thats a bummer!

 

Well, as I said... it wasn't as cold as normal the past several weeks and the air was not dry. At idle in 110 degree weather (Mexicali Border Wait a few summers ago) the air also stopped being cold, so I think they have their limits!

 

@MadTaco461 when is your tuff trucks event?

 

Yep, if the air was humid the AC wasnt working at all since it is also a dehumidifier system (thats why AC is on with the defrost, yes even when on hot!) It can get even more humid if the AC cycles just at a very low frequency causing condensation inside the system itself. Thats a sign that its almost completely discharged.
I bet I will have to charge a ton more vehicles now that its getting warm outside! Typically every June/July is the charge season, hot vehicles are not fun!

 

Wednesday the 27th of this month.