TORSPD: NEVR

I'll take credit for that but I also suggested a rod end as a guide.

 

I used the both of your inputs. Getting the flat bar too close to the diaphragm is problematic when welding. As well as you have to leave enough threads, on the gate end, to allow adjustment. I split the difference. Not having any more deflection problems. Not having any more "stuck fully open" wastegate problems. Not having anymore no boost problems. We're at a 80% win, with all of your help.

Tomorrow, I'll pull the turbo, and inspect the v-band flange halves, to determine how bad the leak is. I've known about it, and attempted some minor efforts to fix it. Was always in a rush though. I will have time to dedicate to it tomorrow.

 

The instructions for my PLX wideband said roughly 18" downstream for NA and 24" downstream for FI applications.

 

Thank you for the clarification.

 

When I was working on a Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T, I remember it being mere inches away from the outlet. Which thoroughly surprised me.

However, there was only so much distance that the catalytic converter could be, to meet lightup efficiency. Thus it had to be between the outlet and the cat.

 

Side project starting, should I not be able to fix the issue with the internal wastegate. Started this tonight.

 

From pictures I've seen, I believe it's the same way on my WRX, but I haven't been under it with the bottom cover pieces off yet to verify.

 

Such a diplomat! Running for office any time soon?

 

Mod-topia Governor? All about it.

I am betting the Subi is quite similar.

 

My speed3 has the o2 right next to the turbo on the down pipe side. Only think oem can get away with this madness because that o2 sensor is $350 compared to our $80 gauge sensors. I give my oem sensor credit with how much abuse I give it.

 

I have heard of people having problems with one of the two major brands, dont remember which. I use these and have had zero problems. I get mine from a small side job dude but I think aem also sells them pretty cheap. Really helps to dissipate heat so the o2 sensor doesnt burn up.

 

Those are sweet.

 

Pretty sure that I have solved the riddle of the low boost "issue." I believe, after careful consideration of the processes involved, that the exhaust flow is taking the path of least resistance. However obvious that seems, it is more obscure when other problems take first priority.

Now, after reflecting upon the mannerisms of its operation, I believe it to be that the exhaust is overpowering the turbine's gate. I did have a massive exhaust leak at the v-band flange, just before turbine inlet. That has been taken care of as of this past weekend.

To focus in on the boost spikes, to 7 psi, but then to fall back to a steady 4, something kept replaying itself in my thoughts. That it would only spike when at part throttle. If wide open, then it would only hit a max of 5 psi, then creep down to just between 4-5.

I could try more pre-load, sure. I could try an electronic boost controller. I could also try a stiffer additional spring, upping the base boost pressure. The later two options would prove beyond a doubt, if my hypothesis is correct. In that the engine just flows a lot of CFM, and the wastegate needs more pressure to overcome that exhaust flow.

Lastly, to follow through with completing the fabrication of the external wastegate configuration. Those are my options.

 

Try the cheapest and easiest test which would probably be a stiffer spring correct?

Regardless how does it feel?

 

weld it shut and find out

 

external wastegate through the hood

 

I would like to offer a translation: need a bigger turbo


On a serious note, I would just follow through with an external gate. It will definitely solve that issue if that's what's causing it. Leaves room for future power goals. Oh, and who doesn't love it when that external gate opens up?!?! bhwaa

 

External gate and EBC. Problem solved.