Anti Seize

Anybody use anti seize when replacing brake bleeders?

 

Be careful, the anti-seize will let you apply much higher torque. While building some BBS wheels, I had some new bolts with out the dry thread-locker, so put the liquid thread locker on. Broke two of them using the correct torque values. Found out that I had to decrease the values by 16% from Lock-tite . I imagine that the anti-seize will lubricate the threads like the Lock-tite did.

 

No.

New bleeders should come with coated threads. Material that resists seizing and leaks both.

Kinda like a teflon tape. But different. Most I've seen have been red.

 

As an engineer and user I have deviled Loctite for years about a definitive number for torque reduction when using the various locking compounds. The new owners (a German WW2 bomber builder) won't commit to a set torque reduction for any of them. They always refer you to their tech sheet for the product - which says it is subject to your own testing (look it up). Total B.S. as no one short of CAT or Komatsu could afford such a thing.

 

I use it all the time even on new ones .

I have yet to see any bleeders with any coating

I have slowed down some I used to buy a case on Never Seize once a year.

Being in the Liquid Brine belt it gets used on every thing

 

I'll look for the .pdf I scrounged up on the Interwebs a few years back...

 

The problem is, the torque reduction is going to vary based on thread type, class of fit, thread material, thread length, type and amount of product, ect.

There's no way loctite can give an accurate number

For threads over 3/8 I don't even bother reducing torque...for smaller screws I'll reduce it around 15% when dealing with oil, loctite, anti seize, ect

 

Everything I take apart with intention of keeping gets a dab.

Here in the salt belt, it is your friend if you intend to keep the truck past the end of the warantay.

 

Amen brother!