Florida B.S. Thread

This one I know for a fact. The pre-Tacoma IFS trucks still had passenger side drops. Guy should know this too, haha. My 87 was definitely a passenger side drop which is why I was putting a whole Chevy drive train in it 350/TH350/NP205(bolt on version).

 

I went off this chart from Marlin to see if it was a gear or chain case. It looks like all r150 are chain and the 151 is gear and the most desirable.


R150F 1988-91 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 Chain 23-spline Top
R150F 1992-95 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 Chain 23-spline Top
R150F 1995-04 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 Chain 23-spline Top
R151F 1986-87 4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 Gear 23-spline Forward 22R-TE Turbo

Lee is correct my runner is passenger side drop.

 

I stand corrected, I swear when I looked at this morning it had a gear driven T case on it. Good eye

 

yeah i had a feeling even the IFS were pass drops, so that makes sense that it most likely is a chain driven. ive only messed with solid axles and tacoma ifs lol, never precoma ifs haha

 

Makes them nicer to SAS. Just find a Toyota solid axle and weld in some spring hangers. Don't have to worry about reengineering the steering or getting an axle with a driver's side drop or any of the BS we have to deal with on Tacoma's.

 

oooooorrrrrrr just get a solid axle pickup to begin with then a lot of your problems are solved! haha

 

If you can find one that's not rusted in half, has a good motor, and working A/C...Otherwise, it's probably just easier to SAS a '90s model HiLux.

 

AC isnt THAT hard to get working haha

but no, I feel you, my 80 will have AC in it after my resistor in my Tacoma shit out on me and I had no AC for a week. never again lol

 

Yeah, man, this is Florida. A/C is pretty much required equipment in this state, haha. I got away with not having it in my '83 because I was in Atlanta, I bought it in the winter, and by summer I was working midnight shift so the 3/80 (3 windows open at 80MPH) system made it tolerable at night. It is why I got the '87 though. I wanted A/C and a radio without having to hack up the dashboard. then I ended up driving the '83 anyway because I hated how effin' slow the '87 was with the 22RE/auto.

 

If anyone is looking for a sport hood for a 5-11 I saw one on offerup in Poinciana OEM silver really good condition, the seller was asking $375.

 

The most relevant thing I've seen so far today:

 

So, I'm not sure if this is related to the shenanigans at Richloam, but the truck is having some starting issues. Saturday afternoon, when turning the key I would get a click, pause, then start. It did the same once on Sunday, but the rest of the day it started immediately when turning the key. Yesterday, I found that my rock lights were on but very dim (switch was off). They were bright when I turned on the switch, but dim when switched back off (I promptly pulled the fuse since I suspect either the switch or relay is about to shit the bed). I attributed the hard start to that. I checked voltage, and it's at 12.6 with the truck off and 14.8 with the truck running. This morning, I turned the key and nothing happened, but it started the second time (no dimming of dash lights, etc). I just went out to move the truck into the shade, and I got nothing on the first 2, but it started on the third try. Is it possible the starter relay is on its way out?

 

After a trip to citrus a bit back I had a clicking issue. Had to tap the starter a little to get it to work. I got Home pulled the starter and cleaned it with electrical parts cleaner(pulled the solenoid). Been working great since. As for the lights that’s strange.

 

What Timbo said clean it out and dry it. Make sure all your connections are good also and see if that helps.

 

Thanks guys. Looks like I know what I'll be doing this evening.

 

will make cleaning fun

 

I'm thinking dropping the skid plates will be the most fun part...

 

This happens to me all the time. It was even happening AT Richloam. You need to pull the starter, remove the solenoid cover, pull the plunger and spray everything out with contact cleaner. If you're feeling really industrious, take apart the gear reduction and grease everything in there especially the spur gear kickout and you shouldn't have any more problems until you get into deep muddy water again.

 

If your going to open your starter just change out the contacts they're like $15 on Amazon prime.

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it. The contacts are likely fine, just coated with mud. The last time I had to pull mine apart was AFTER I replaced the contacts and plunger. But when I did it that time, I also took apart the gear reduction and greased everything in there. A couple days later I got a new starter from Kyle and haven't had a problem with the old one until Richloam, but now that it's dried out, it's been working fine. It's almost like now that I have a good back up ready to go in, it's going trying to stay in the truck as long as possible, haha.