Serious question: what do I do? SOLVED!

Yeah, I just realized, see edit to my post.

 

Sub for outcome

 

Along these lines...

https://www.grainger.com/product/SK..._on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS

 

There are all sorts of wheel locknut removers out there.

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/locking-lug-nut-remover

 

Ive made some progress. Its definitely slow. I have put in 3 hours tonight and gotten almost 3 studs "done". I figure Ive got about that much left. Im going to go get back on it but I wanted to give you folk an update. The way I m doing it is definitely the safest for the wheel but it is putting a hurting on my back.

Ill update again when I give up for the night.

 

Apparently those were not of the ones that were done. I couldnt see which ones they were when I uploaded them. Ill find the good ones later.

 

I'm telling man, get the bi-metal hole saw. It will make short work of the remaining nut and not bugger up your back, the wheel and most likely the stud either.

 

Damn that looks like tough work. Are you going with the drill bit method or the hole saw?

 

Looks like drill bit to me, as the stud is gone.

 

At this point with how mangled up it is, a hole saw will walk all over the place and scar up the wheel. Especially since he'd have to take out the center pilot bit. I'd just keep going with the drill bits. It will get done.

Just imagine if this was a flat tire on the side of the interstate though.

Edit: In my experience those bi-metal hole saws dull out rather quick. They're meant for sheet metal, not thick steel.

 

Ya but you usually use a bit with the hole saw too. I was asking because one picture looked like the nut was chewed up too but I just realized it's because it sheared lol. Second look I do think you are right, drilling studs is not fun at all.

 

I may run back out to the hardware store. The one I went to today didn’t have one. But I’m up for trying different options.

 

You have a strategy that works and the tools to do it. I would take the time needed to run to the hardware store and spend part of it with a beer before getting back at it. Good luck!!

 

How many bits do you have? If you have a sharpener and you could get a friend to sharpen while you drill and keep rotating in a fresh bit. I've seen that work well on manifold studs.

 

I definitely like the way you think. I have been through 1 3/8" bit and 1 7/16" but on each stud. I have one of each left so I may just keep chuggin along.

I am exercising that have a beer thing at the moment though.

 

Obviously don't use the hole saw on a stud that has been removed already.

This method was recommended for the unmolested stud.

If the hole saw comes with a pilot bit, you just loosen the grub screw on the side to remove it.
The hole saw ID should be fairly close the bolt size. Just slip it over and let the stud be the pilot.
With that small of diameter hole saw, OP can use cardboard as a buffer to keep the saw from touching the wheel.
Or put a few wraps of Gorilla tape around the saw to keep the teeth tucked out of the way.

Just don't go spinning the saw a hog wild.

 

I understand the theory here but I feel like it won't work that way in practice until the saw starts to make it's own path. I feel like the uneven surface will make it walk all over but who knows.

 

I updated my original note above, as I didn't see where you were talking about using the hole saw on the already drilled stud, so my comment was a little out of order.

 

It’s coming along. I’m getting back on it now.

 

just finish that one rim, then take the truck in to the shop for a tire rotation and balance
and let them deal with it. lol j/k