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Simple towing question

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by kbUSMC2012, Jun 22, 2018.

  1. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:31 AM
    #21
    Xena1

    Xena1 Well-Known Member

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    You don't need a brake controller for a U-haul trailer. The trailers have a break mechanism in them. Should be 2" ball with 4 pin connector that's all. Before they rent you the trailer they confirm towing vehicle and if your vehicle is not rated for the particular weight of the trailer, they won't rent it to you.
     
  2. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:32 AM
    #22
    Comb

    Comb Known Member

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    Also, read through pages 170-187 in the owner's manual for info on towing a trailer (p. 175-191 for the 2018 folks).
     
  3. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:33 AM
    #23
    Brettweir

    Brettweir Active Member

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    Any U haul trailer I have seen that needed brakes, used surge brakes similar to a boat trailer. If that is the case you don't need a brake controller at all.
     
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  4. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:35 AM
    #24
    TWENTYCO

    TWENTYCO Tree top flyer

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    A lot of u haul trailers have surge brakes. Surge brakes sense the stop and use hydraulic braking in response to the forces applied from stopping. Great system for small trailers.
     
  5. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:37 AM
    #25
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    A lot of questions need to be asked of u-haul. Otherwise we are doing a lot of guessing and filling in blanks that may or may not be nessecary. I almost forgot they used surge brakes (which work great in a boat or similar trailer with a static tow weight) or many of their older trailers. Not sure if they still do or if they modernized but these questions need to be answered with u-haul.
     
  6. Jun 22, 2018 at 6:40 AM
    #26
    Taco16LB

    Taco16LB Well-Known Member

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    Incase it has not been mentioned , take some time and find large empty area like a parking lot and practice backing up with the trailer before you are in a situation where you HAVE to back up in traffic . Put something down to back around and in between like small blocks or boards and practice . Look up some you tubes on backing a trailer .
    Edit , another tip - get into the habit of thinking about if you drive into anywhere (gas station , restaurant etc.) what will happen if you need to back out of where you went in . Look for places that allow you to drive out forward without backing , places you will not be boxed in and forced to backup etc.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
    Spillproof and Exracer2 like this.
  7. Jun 22, 2018 at 7:05 AM
    #27
    kbUSMC2012

    kbUSMC2012 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It would be 600 lbs of stuff, not including the trailer.

    Also, thanks for the post. Extremely helpful.
     
  8. Jun 22, 2018 at 7:15 AM
    #28
    Enigma8246

    Enigma8246 Well-Known Member

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  9. Jun 22, 2018 at 7:30 AM
    #29
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    Very good video. I had it wag the tail once years ago. Quick adjustment and all was good.

    My personal rule is to get weight centered over the front axle on my tandem trailers. Almost perfect in terms of tongue weight everytime. On single axle trailers center the load over the front edge of the tire. This isn’t an exact science but it is a good place to start and adjust from there.
     
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  10. Jun 22, 2018 at 7:55 AM
    #30
    kgilly

    kgilly Well-Known Member

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    I trailered a 8x12 Uhaul box trailer about 240 miles when we moved about 6-7 months ago, and I had the tongue weight off and the trailer nosed down slightly, so over 55 the trailer swayed so good idea to try and keep the weight in the trailer even throughout and the tongue weight correct..your tow package comes with a 4 & 7 pin connection and most Uhaul trailers have the 4 pin male plug. just take your time..
     
  11. Jun 22, 2018 at 7:57 AM
    #31
    phsycle

    phsycle Well-Known Member

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    Man, I thought that was a Corolla when I first saw the picture. That must have been a huge trailer! Hope your wife is fully recovered or well on her way. We have the same van. I hope it will protect my family like it did yours.
     
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  12. Jun 22, 2018 at 8:19 AM
    #32
    Victory

    Victory Well-Known Member

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    You will just need the ball mount and ball. You won’t need any wiring if you have the tow package, you have the correct connection in your bumper already and the wiring at Uhaul will be on the trailer, they usually have plenty long wires, and if for some reason they don’t reach, they will add an extension for you, no need to buy your own.
    Larger Uhaul trailers use surge brakes, not a brake controller, so no need to buy a controller, you won’t be able to use it.
    The only thing you will need is the mount and ball. The larger Uhaul trailers use a 2” ball but some smaller ones use 1 7/8”. Because you are only towing 600 lbs, I’d find out from UHaul which size you need as you may be renting the smallest trailer.

    Since this is your first time, see if you have a “Uhaul Moving and Storage” center near you instead of just picking up at a “UHaul Neighborhood Dealer”
    While they are both franchises, the moving centers only business is Uhaul. They are more helpful, have more trailers, have repair facilities for the trucks and trailers on site, and you will be sure everything is working and connected properly.
    The “neighborhood dealers” are just gas stations, hardware stores or other businesses with some extra parking lot space who have a few trucks and trailers they rent out for commission, they may not have the parts, straps, boxes, dollies etc if you forget something, repair facilities aren’t on site so more chance that trailer could be damaged, and employees probably won’t be as knowledgeable or helpful since uHaul is not their main business.
     
    kbUSMC2012[OP] and TWENTYCO like this.
  13. Jun 23, 2018 at 8:48 AM
    #33
    kbUSMC2012

    kbUSMC2012 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Great post man. Definitely answers all my questions. I appreciate it!
     
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  14. Jun 24, 2018 at 3:47 PM
    #34
    kbUSMC2012

    kbUSMC2012 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do I need to drive the entire way in “4lo”?
     
  15. Jun 24, 2018 at 3:58 PM
    #35
    StayinStock

    StayinStock Dare to be the same

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    No. Your owners manual has pretty good instructions on towing. Not being a smartass but it is helpful
     
  16. Jun 24, 2018 at 4:14 PM
    #36
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    They did tell you 4lo should be only used at walking speed? If not read your manual.
     
  17. Jun 24, 2018 at 4:45 PM
    #37
    kbUSMC2012

    kbUSMC2012 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’ve seen other people talk about it on some other thread and I didn’t know. Thanks though.
     
  18. Jun 24, 2018 at 6:35 PM
    #38
    Victory

    Victory Well-Known Member

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    Shouldn’t tow in 4wd at all unless you get stuck of course.
     
  19. Jun 24, 2018 at 6:40 PM
    #39
    reloader403

    reloader403 Well-Known Member

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    I'd say read that owners manual before you even think about putting it in 4hi/lo or pressing any buttons......much less hooking a trailer up to it.
     
  20. Jun 24, 2018 at 7:32 PM
    #40
    BigWhiteTRD

    BigWhiteTRD Official thread killer (only crickets remain)

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    You did the first important thing and asked first. Seriously don't worry too much, go for it.
    Most important items have already been covered... but I will mention my mental checklist.

    Need to buy ball and draw bar and hitch pin to secure to the truck. Little uhaul (I would bet) will like a couple inch drop on the draw bar. Tighten that ball tight. Install draw bar and hitch pin, draw bar will be a little sloppy (and bang a bit especially on a short light trailer.) That is normal. They sell clamps to remove the slop if it gives you the willies. Cross the chains under the hitch. Try to make sure there is decent slack in the chain for turning, but not enough to drag. If chains are too long, usually you can twist them to shorten them up.

    Check all the lights, and your mirrors before leaving. Have somebody do a walk around while you watch in your mirrors to get a better feel for them.

    Load the trailer. Strap down your crap well to get your target tongue weight. I highly suggest using a lot of ratchet straps (hello harbor freight). You don't want something flying or rolling if a single strap gets loose. Recheck strap tightness after 10 or 20 miles, then every few hundred miles thereafter. Remember flat things like to fly, and the center of pressure is a out 25% of the way back from the front, so focus some straps right near the front. If anybody in the group thinks it needs more straps, then it needs more straps. If trailer seems to be getting unstable (swaying) during the trip, items may have shifted aft. Stop and check/fix.

    Take your time. (Don't leave if you want to make it before sundown, and that will only work if....). Got-to-get-there-iris is a most fatal disease.

    You are only going to use 2hi. Leave 3 or 4 times more room than usual to people in front (8 or 10 second interval is more like it in my opinion). Go slower than speed limit in traffic light areas, so you don't end up running a light because you are afraid to stop. Surge brakes on a uhaul CANNOT be backed up a hill (without a reverse pin or a reverse lockout, i have seen them on a uhaul), so plan ahead. Expect half the normal fuel range to be safe. Be very careful using too high of a gear, especially any overdrive gears. On the auto, use s5 or s4 depending on the trailer weight and drag. 2500-3000 rpm is a good target cruising rpm. (For me with a 2000 lb total trailer s5 seems fine, with 3500 lb total trailer s4 does better. Tranny will overheat if it shifts down on the highway too often (like every 30 seconds) , using the lower gear will prevent constant downshifts and the 3000 rpm isn't too fast for the engine. If you find the transmission seems to hunt, shift down gain speed, throttle reduced, shift up, lose speed... then just stick to the lower gear. (Use similar thoughts with the manual trans, but I don't have exact suggestions).

    Swing wide, the trailer will cut the corners behind you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
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