All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Awesome! BTW, you should be able to score a frame around $1k off right now (for Medium black), if you want to build. Complete XT gruppos and the new NX Eagle come in affordable, full Hope 27.5+ wheels and PRO4 hubs are about $500, last year's Pikes are on sale... If you want to build, it'll likely be cheaper than stock, and better parts.

 

I ride a large frame, but a build up is tempting. Especially when I can call in a favor or two with Hubsessed up in Ogden.

 

Quick JMP (Oakland) this morning.

 

What’s the general consensus here about taking a 120mm stock fork and upgrading to a 130mm-140mm fork?

Obvious slack it out a bit more. If I went with 140 I believe my head angle would end up being equal to my genius’ head angle. May elevate the BB a bit which isn’t that bad for this bike.

Stress the frame too much?

 

@Thechist Here is my setup. I have a DCSB with a topper. I can fit my Large 6Fattie and my wife’s Med 6Fattie side by side. I can also fit my large Fatboy and my large Ti SS in there.

 

Hi guys. Just got my rocky mounts and header rail installed and ready for some mileage. Anyone in here near the central Florida area? I'm hitting clermont at 8am tomorrow if anyone cares to join

 

Great looking set up.

 

Should be fine, but on slow uphills it may seriously get lazy in the steering department. I put a 160mm MRP Stage on my Bronson (+10mm) and it definitely wanders a little more than a floor model.

 

I grew up fairly near there ... in the ‘60’s pre-mountain bikes. Is there enough trail mileage to be worth coming up from Santa Cruz? Traffic on 17/880/580 sucks pretty much 24/7.

 

What am I doing wrong? I can’t fit two bikes in that config under my ARE Z Series with 5’ bed. I can do one bike facing forward, one facing back (very tight bar-to-bar fit, plus bars to window/hinges/struts); or both facing forward (plenty of clearance, but then I have to crawl in to secure the front axle mounts. In either case I have to tip my size L 29-er to get the saddle under the rear opening, even with my dropper jammed down. What kind of shell do you have?

 

If you're already in Santa Cruz, don't bother (you already have better riding). I only do JMP during the week but hit Demo or UCSC on the weekends. The JMP trails are like a mini-Demo in that you climb up a little Ridge only to do some fun chunky stuff down. It gets pretty busy during the weekends and afternoons so it's hard to get any type of flow during those times.

 

Any of you run the KUAT transfer hitch rack? I have a topper and usually transport bike on there but taking the wheel on and off for short trips is annoying. Haha

 

It changes the overall geometry, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Like you said it will slack the head tube, raise the B.B., and it’ll also change the seat tube angle. I’d be most worrie
d about raising the B.B. too much, that can make a bike feel top heavy/weird and unstable, but 10-20mm isn’t a ton. If you wanted to put a 200mm dh fork on that’s a different story.
People definitely do it all the time, and some companies have even done it themselves/encouraged it. When I worked at a shop specialized made a version of the stumpy with a longer fork, I currently have a 1st gen Transition Smuggler which came with a 130 fork, but transition advertises that you can also use a 140. I don’t see how it would stress the frame significantly more, other than if having a longer fork encouraged you to hit bigger stuff. It will be noticeably slower to turn tight corners, and better at bulldozing stuff in a straight line. IMO is stick with only a 10mm increase from stock, but give it a shot.

 

I habe the CBI overland rack on my 16. How do the bars work with the rack? Do you then put a bike rack on them?

 

Thanks for info guys. Yea, If I go up I’ll just go up 10mm. I’m on a job in the field working shift work, so no riding but plenty of time to shop for parts...

 

@dman100 Not sure. I made the base and then dry fit the bikes in there to mark the location for the wheel mounts. I mount my bikes rear wheel in first. Then all I have to do is thread the fork mount. I did not want to have to climb in to thread the fork mount. You can see the mount on the right (empty) is setback about 4 inches from the mount my bike is in. When the bikes are mounted the rear wheels are slanted toward the driver side. When both are in they clear the gas struts for the rear and Windoors. The 4 inch setback allows the bar ends and controls on each bike to clear each other. My topper is an ARE Z series too. Standard height. I do have to slightly tip my bike to the side for the seat to clear the rear opening, but once it gets past the opening, I have plenty of room. I just leave my dropper all the way down. Seems the major difference on how we mount them is my fork mount is located on the tailgate side.

 

My Taco was in the parking lot when I filmed this. Me and my son ripping down Cat's Paw at Highland Mountain in NH. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTzTkiB6Ke4

 

Looks like a cool place to ride

 

I guess I wasn’t clear ... I started with trying to mount our bikes with forks on the tailgate end and couldn’t get ‘em to both fit. I’ll try again ... maybe our bikes’ length or height (both FS 29-ers but not long travel) and/or bar and stem dimensions are just a bit bigger than your 6Fatties. Thanks for the comments.

 

That’s some solid flow bro