What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Question for those of you who have worked with plastidip. Is it possible to layout a panel, and using narrow masking tape, lay out a second narrow strip around the main panel, and paint it all in one pass, then pull up the narrow tape? See the example in the image. I have not worked with plastidip, but have done considerable painting/stripping, layout of graphics, airbrush work. Just not sure if the bond with the plastidip would allow you to create the fine stripe. I have done this with paint, back in the day.

I'm just not sure if I will like the look of the hood mostly black, so thought I would do it in something not as permanent as paint.

 

if you use a razor blade to gently cut the plasti-dip i guess it would work. but i wouldnt try it

 

why are you using something like that? trying to save some money? Will it handle 500 amps continuous?

 

was just for an example. i cant find one yet lol. any suggestions?

 

I use a blue sea ml-acr. It's ideal for my needs bit it is more expensive.

 

i rather spend money knowing its not going to burn my truck down lol. I'll have OBA, fridge, lights and winch thats my heavy draw stuff. so im going to guess it'll handle my needs as well.

 

Cam seals today.

 

Yep. Staying on 15s. Cheaper tires. Works great with 35s. I'd go to a 16 for 37s though. But I won't run 37s until I can retro fit a 2nd gen front diff. 35s are good enough anyways really. Plenty of tire

 

You want to pull the tape off carefully before the PlastiDip dries completely...if you wait until it dries, you'll end up peeling the PlastiDip off with it.

 

hey guys, what’s this bearing called? Can I get it as a greasible bearing? It’s got 1/2” play.

2nd question, if my count is right there are 6 UJs on the driveshaft (4 rear & 2 front), are they all the same sizes.... gonna replace all 6 while I’m at it.

Thanks

 

its a carrier bearing and i dont think you can replace the double ujoints stacked next to eachother.

 

Just remember that most of that stuff is running when the engine (and alternator) is running; so you may not need a second battery. Depending on your adventure style, you may find that you can even support the fridge on a single battery.

I've run 1 battery to this point and not had a problem at all (esp. since the fridge has a low voltage shut-off; and it's only triggered once), but that's with trips where you're basically driving all day. If you're the type that heads to a beautiful spot and stops for a week, then you'll obviously want a second battery for that.

Edit: @Digiratus - what's the difference between the Blue Sea controller you have and the RedArc stuff? (just brand?)

 

yea, i kinda want to do both. and figured a second battery is good insurance regardless.

 

Thanks at @zero4

They’ve quite a selection of “packages” - and maybe the “complete” kit isn’t best for me as I just put in new rear springs & front shocks. Would like to not have to do 2 front alignments, but I might not be able to get all the front done b4 I put some miles on after the 4th.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/toyota_tacoma_4wd_2003

 

Just adds a lot of cost by the time you get it isolated, wired, etc. My "insurance" so far has been to have a LiIon jump starter in case I somehow kill my battery.

 

Thanks at @what road .... I seem to recall reading that about the stacked UJs too, although I see removable ring clips on all 4 sides of both.

More research needed

 

true, i'll try a single battery setup first and see how it goes i guess. probably best to wait till i get out there more to see where im getting left behind on.

 

That's what I was thinking, too. Maybe I'll just do the panel without getting fancy to see if I like it, and if so, I can do it in paint, with the stripe later.

 

That big bearing holding it up is called a Carrier Bearing. Toyota PN# is

$141 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130 for the bearing, and PN# 90179-18009 for the Stake Nut you have to replace. I’ve never seen a greaseable version.

The joint behind it called a Double Cardon Joint, some correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t think you can replace that entire assembly. However there are several u-joints you can replace throughout the driveshaft.

 

on dual battery setup you have the option of which battery you to power what. I moved the radios and fridge and the amps all to the house battery.

Are you referring to dc to dc charging systems? More of a 2nd gen thing because their alternators can't or don't charge at a high enough rate for AGM type batteries.