05-11 Tacoma TRS retro fit projectors

How's it going guys! This is gonna be my first write-up for this installation. I noticed that I couldn't seem to find a good guide on 05-11 headlight retrofit installs anywhere on Google. So I decided to do the write-up and help some people out. The install will be done on a 2009 Tacoma TRD Sport DC 4x4 that was purchased a while back in September. The headlights I chose to use for the install we're purchased off of eBay they have clear reflectors instead if amber and are also painted black in some areas. I purchesed the headlights and decided to work on them before i start working on the actual retrofit so i purchased primer, clear coat, and my matching body color paint for pyrite mica from automotive touch up paint.


HEADLIGHT HOUSING

1. I noticed that there were staples inside the top edge of the headlight that I removed with a flat head screwdriver.

2. I started by preheating the oven at about 150-200 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the oven was ready I sat the headlight on an old towel and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. Now I know what your thinking and putting the headlight in the oven was super sketchy and you could possibly freak out like I did. Just check the headlights every 5 minutes to make sure all is going to plan. Once the headlight was hot the glue would start to pull apart. The best place to start is in the corners of the headlight, you can use a razor knife to cut the glue if you choose to but i just used my hand to pry them apart. So i pulled the lens and the back of the headlight housing apart till they were completely separate. KEEP IN MIND NOT TO PULL TOO HARD DON'T TRY AND FORCE THE SEPARATION OR YOU WILL BREAK THE HEADLIGHT.

IF YOU DON'T PLAN ON PAINTING THE BOWL OF THE HEADLIGHT OR THE COVER THATS BUILT INTO THE LENS COMPLETELY IGNORE STEPS 3-4-5.

3. Once the headlight was separated there we're 2 bolt that control the left-right and top-bottom of your beam holding the bowl in place so I took a 5/16 socket with a cordless impact and gave the left side screw a few bumps and then the right side. IT'S KEY NOT TO GO TOO FAR ON ONE SIDE BECAUSE IF YOU DO YOU'LL BEND THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS AND IT WON'T SEAT PROPERLY LATER.

4. Once you have the bowl out you can paint it whatever color you want. Me personally I painted it my matching body color I so roughed it up with some 320 grit sandpaper and shot it with some primer about 2-3 coats is good. Then once dry clean it with a micro fiber towel of compressed air. Then shoot it with about 2-3 coats of your paint color let it dry then hit it with 3 coats of clear coat to give it a decent shine heres my finished product installed back into headlight housing.


You can also paint the lens part of the housing if your feeling adventures.

5. It's the same process for the lens cover, there are 2 Phillips head screws holding cover into the Lens once you remove them simply pry the cover out. AGAIN BE GENTLE IT'S NOT YOUR BOSS'S WIFE WERE TALKING ABOUT HERE IT'S A PIECE OF PLASTIC. Once removed your going to need some painters tape for cream colored masking tape to cover up any signal light lens/ reflectors. Then continue with 3 coats of primer 3 coats if paint and 3 coats of clear coat once dry pop cover back into lens then secure it with the 2 Phillips head screws. And it should look like so.

BULB/ PROJECTOR/ SHROUDS
-Super H1 Projectors x 2
-Apollo 1.0 Painted x 2(gloss black from ebay)
-90mm Morimoto XC RGB Halo x 2
-110mm Led-Concepts RGB Halo x 2
-Morimoto XBT RGB Controller x 1
-Black Butyl Headlight glue
-JB Weld Steelstik
-Small Phillips head screwdriver
-2 Part Epoxy
-Exacto Knife



PROJECTOR INSTALL

1. So I started by test fitting the projector into the headlight bowl. The projectors i received from TRS gave me 2 Rubber grommets, and 2 Metal flanges and a plastic connector that goes to the 2 wires that control the cut-off shield for the projector. the back of the projector has a threaded shaft with an aluminum jam nut. I began with taking the jam nut off and putting the larger rubber grommet over the threaded shaft. Then ran both wires to the cut-off shield into the headlight bowl hole and then put the threaded shaft through the hole. Then i put the small rubber grommet over the threaded shaft. Once it was on then i put the big 3 prong flange over the threaded shaft and the prongs go into the slots were your oem bulb would seat. Then place the Aluminum jam nut on the shaft and tighten it down till its snug. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE ALUMINUM JAM NUT DOWN TIGHT BECAUSE IF YOU DO THERE'S A CHANCE YOU CAN'T GET IT BACK OFF IT'S MADE SO THAT ONCE IN THE RIGHT POSITION YOU TIGHTEN IT DOWN FULLY AND IT DEFORMS THE NUT OF THE SHAFT..GIGGITY



2. Now that you test fitted your projector in the housing and your feeling pretty confident about yourself let's get into making those halos fit that shroud. So grab your shroud and your halos start by test fitting your inner halo make sure its in a good position that you feel will look good. Grab your JB Weld Steelstik and get you 3 blobs going once you have the halo where you want it put a dab of the steelstik on the back side of the halo and the shroud. Continue doing this 2 more times in different areas around the halo ring and give it about an hour and it'll be ready.


3. Now that you've finished the inner halo lets start on the outside. According from TRS they like to do the "Shakespeare" Technique which is defined by getting a thumb tack and starting 6 holes around the shroud, 3 where the projector will sit and 3 directly on the opposite side. Once they are started grab yourself a Cordless drill and a 5/64 bit and finish out the holes. Get yourself either some steel wire or Fishing Line, I went with the fishing line route and secured the outer halo ring in 3 different places once secure i noticed that the wiring for the halo was causing it to not seat flat so i took it off and grabbed my exacto knife and cut out a slot for the wiring to sit flush. I then mixed up a little bit of 2 part epoxy and got a tooth pick and start mixing it and applying it to the edge of the shroud and then mounted the 90mm halo and tied all the fishing line back up.



Once it was dry i started working on the Centric ring that makes the projector and the shroud really make it a tight fit and cut out a slot for the outer halo wiring. I then test fitted the centric ring into the shroud.. and wouldn't and it broke the damn halo ring wire....


Alright so I reinvented the wheel with this build went with Apollo 3.0s and 120mm morimoto halos. I got some 2 part epoxy from hobbytown usa and glued it to the shroud once it was dry I mounted the shrouds with eccentric rings on my projectors and mounted my projectors in the headlight housings. And put them on the truck to see how my color matched looks and I was very happy with the results check them out.



Once I got the passenger side into place I built the driver side and put it in, my headlights still need to be aimed but damn they good and hell. As for the xbt rgb control. YOU'LL NEED TO GO INTO YOUR PHONE SETTINGS>APPS>MORIMOTO APP> LOCATION, TURN LOCATION ON IN YOUR SETTINGS IN ORDER TO PAIR YOUR PHONE TO THE CONTROL OTHERWISE IT WON'T PAIR. That's about it for this install guide here are the end results.





IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR NEED HELP LET ME KNOW! CHEERS!

 

I'm glad I stumbled onto your thread. I just received my kit from TRS. I am also planning on blacking everything out and I have apollo 3 shrouds with two halo led rings. What type of paint are you using?

 

I used matching paint color for pyrite mica from automotivetouchup.com the 12 oz aerosol can was like $20.

 

Subbed, great work!

 

Awesome man looks great. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my retrofit. A bit hesitant. Not sure whether to go OEM for the headlight. And unsure about which kit to order from TRS. I'll give them a call

 

Get a set of used OEM to work on so you can take your time with it. I went aftermarket once and quality is not the same in terms of cheap mounting posts for the bowl. I had one post snapped off due to the weight of the projector. My current retrofit is on a set of OEM Sport headlamps with D2S 3.0/Apollo 1.0 shrouds. No issues and looks factory. I even used TRS retro grey butyl rubber.