Boostedka's already mostly built S/C'd single cab

I sold my Turbo'd Ext cab 2000 Tacoma to buy this single cab. It has been very well taken care of and very modded by the previous owner, another member on here. I'm mostly just doing some things to it to make it my own and functional for what I have in mind.
I'm mostly doing this thread to provide information for others that may want to do similar things to their trucks. Like many of us know, searching for info and pics can sometimes be a PIA so hopefully some of what I post in this thread will be helpful to a few people out there.

Below are the mods that were already on the truck when I bought it. There are probably more as Evan (PO) put in a ton of work to this truck.

I'll try to catch up with some of the things I've done so far. Hopefully I can keep it more up to date after that.
Highlighted in Green are the things that I've added/swapped out since I've had the truck.


Performance:
LCE/TRD Supercharger
URD 2.5" Pulley - Replaced with LCE 58mm Pulley
Walbro 190 fuel pump
Pink Top injectors
URD 2.5 inch pulley
Northwest off-road header
Dynomax cat back exhaust
Dynomax stainless cat
AFE Drop-In Air Filter
Custom 3" Intake tube
EGR Delete

Drivetrain:
Front and rear ARB lockers
4.88 Nitro Gears
URD Short Shifter
Marlin Crawler Shifter Bushing

Suspension:
Icon extended travel coilovers
SPC Upper Control Arms
Front diff drop
Extended inner poly CV boots
OME Dakar Leafs with 3rd leaf removed
OME add a leaf - Removed
OME rear shocks
All-Pro u bolt flip kit
Wheelers Off-Road super bumps
OME Greasable Shackles.
Axle relocation plates

Wheels/Tires:
33x10.5 BFG KO2
15x7 OEM Toyota steelies - Replaced with ATX Teflon Mojave 15x8 3.75" BS

Armor/Exterior:
Trail Gear front bumper with welded stinger
Superwinch 8500 winch
Rear trail gear bumper modified with swing out tire and fuel carrier - Replaced with All-Pro Rear Bumper
Rear frame boxed. (trail gear kit)
4x innovations sliders-welded
Rat products 1/8" skid plate.
ARB snorkel
Color matched Leer Camper Shell
Smittybuilt Defender roof rack - Removed

Interior:
Single A-Pillar Gauge pod with aftermarket tach- Replaced with PLX DM-6 Multigauge, AFR and Boost Senors
Gauge Cluster with OEM Tach
CB radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Dakota Digital SGI-5E

Stereo:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS
JBL 504EZ 4 channel amp
Rockville 10" powered sub
JBL 6.5" components bi-amped

Current Pic:

 

First I started with some things in the engine bay. I needed the EGR to put on my 2000 to sell it, which worked out well since I planned on deleting the EGR off this truck. So I pulled it off and installed some block off plates from LCE.

I also needed to use the intake tube to put my old truck back to stock so I made a new intake tube that deleted all the factory restrictions.

I also installed some NGK plug wires and swapped over the powder coated valve cover from the other truck as well.

Some pics...before and after of the engine bay.

 

Next I did a few things to the interior. All of the previous Tacomas I've owned had a tach in the stock gauge cluster. I didn't really like not having one in this truck and I had a hard time seeing the aftermarket one that was installed. So I did some research and found out that you can simply swap in an OEM cluster with a tach and it will work with no other modifications. So I found a used cluster on here with a tach, ordered some green LED's for it and plugged it in hoping it would work...and it did! So now the truck has an OEM tach. The only issue is that the ODO does not match with what the trucks actual mileage is. Not a big deal for me, but for those that try to do this, it's good to know beforehand.



Also, the dome light that was attached to the rear view mirror is not very bright on these single cabs. So while searching around on here, I noticed that Tacomas and 4Runners with sunroofs use rear view mirrors that have map lights on them that double as a dome light as well. I searched eBay and found one for ~$30 that was pretty much plug and play. I just had to cut a couple of square holes in the headliner for the light housing to recess into. Now I have dual dome lights and map lights as well.





With the 4.88's and 33's, the speedo was off by close to 10mph at hwy speeds. So I also wired in a Dakota Digital SGI-5E. It is pretty simple...basically 4 wires from the unit splice into 3 wires on the truck just above the glove compartment. Ground, Power, and a speed Input and Output to intercept the signal and correct what the ECU sees as the actual speed. Now it adjusts easily with a few presses of a button. I used 3M two sided stick tape to stick it to the top of the glovebox so it can easily be reached while driving to adjust it on the fly. I downloaded a Speedo app on my phone and simply used the adjustment buttons to match the truck's speedo to that. Now it pretty dead on within ~0.5mph

DD Wiring:
Ground to Blue
Power to Pink
Signal In to Green/Red (Factory taped up side)
Out 2 to Green/Red (harness side)

 

Next I wanted to take out the smaller aftermarket tach and replace it with a PLX boost and AFR gauge. Also, I wanted to install my stereo as well. So I took out a decent amount of the interior, cleaned everything up as best as I could...vacuumed/shampooed the seats and carpet, wipe down everything with Armoral, ran the wiring for the stereo, and gauges, and installed the Wet Okole seat covers that I kept from my previous truck.

For the AFR sensor and gauge, I used the PLX feature that allows you to replace the stock narrowband O2 sensor. Basically it is using an adapter plate to install the AFR sensor into the OEM O2 sensor bung. Then you used the supplied wire to run from the AFR sensor module to the truck's ECU. I depinned the Bank 1 O2 sensor wire and inserted the grey wire with a terminal in place of it. Them plugged it back into the ECU. I was hesitant as to whether this would work, but it fired right up. The only issue I need to figure out is I keep getting a CE code for the O2 Sensor heater wires since they are no longer connected. I just clear them with my Ultragauge Blue and it's not really a big deal. Just something to figure out at some point.







For the tweeter part of the stereo install, I used a set of 3rd gen 4Runner sail panel tweeter pods. I drilled out the grills on them with a hole saw and found some 3/4" JBL tweeters that the flush mount pods threaded right into. This made for a fairly stock look with the ability to still swivel them if needed.

 

I swapped over the wheels and tires from the old truck to see how I liked the set up. I like the wheels on the truck but the 32/11.5/15 tires were too small for the 4.88 gearing. So I had the 15x8 American Racing wheels mounted up with the 33x10.5 KO2's that came on the truck. I like the way it came out and I'm looking forward to seeing how this setup does offroad.







Then I swapped out the URD pulley for a LCE 58mm pulley to get a couple more pounds of boost out of the supercharger. It definitely added some more responsiveness to the motor. It's a PIA the swap the pulley out on the 3RZ S/C compared to the 5VZ. With the unit set much further down to the side, the radiator and fan shroud make for a very tight space. So the shroud needed to be removed and I was able to just unbolt the radiator and move it enough to get a puller tool in there to remove the URD pulley.
I also have a Snow Performance Meth Kit that I am looking forward to installing as well to hopefully get a little more HP.


After that, I took it up to the Jemez mountains for some MTB'ing.

 

You have always been really good at sharing details and helping everyone on the forum thank you so much for that !!
I would rather have the tach in the stock cluster too. I’ll have to study up on what all is needed and and how difficult that is.

 

Thanks Jason. I know when I was turboing my other truck it was a pain trying to find info on certain things so I just try to put something up to help out anyone else that happens to be doing the same thing.

For that cluster, it was literally a direct swap. There are 3 or 4 plugs on the back of it that just plug right into the tach cluster. The only additional thing I did was swapping the 4 main bulbs on the back with green LED lights. This wasn't necessary but I figured the "hard" part was already done (which really wasn't that hard) and the LED's themselves are cheap. The key thing is finding one that closely matches your mileage if you want it to be the same.

 

I'm along for the ride!

 

Can you describe the power difference between turbo and s/c? I'm assuming you have more grunt off the line now

 

The S/C definitely makes the truck feel torquey-er down low and more responsive everywhere, but overall the turbo felt faster and pulled harder once spooled, IMO. I'm going to install a meth kit as well to see how that affects it.
I'm hoping to try and get it on a dyno once that's done to have objective numbers to see the differences in overall power as well as what the curve looks like compared to when I dyno'd the turbo truck.

 

Subbbb

 

Awesome.

 

I'm going to be making a list of all the things that I'll be selling very soon and hope to help some fellow turbo-lo-nions with their builds.

 

Nothing too exciting... I pulled off the cap so I could do a few things with that. I cleaned it up some, it needs a new seal, and, now that I pulled the roof rack off, I need to seal the holes and also address the peeling and oxidized roof. I also took some time to shine up the paint and protect it from the intense NM summer UV rays. I washed, clay barred, re-washed, then waxed. I was pretty happy with how nice the paint looks, especially for being a 20 year old truck with original paint!
I also bought a Raptor Liner kit for the bed to replace the plastic drop-in liner.


Any suggestion on what to do with the top of this cap? I'm considering respraying with clear coat, doing a bed-liner material on it, plasti-dip, or a vinyl wrap of some sort. What do any of you think?

 

Looking great, nice truck!
Got to love the single cab,

A couple of easy add ons that I wish I had done sooner
1) gentex rear view mirror model 453, homelink, Compass, outside temp,
2) 2004 tacoma side mirrors, you don’t have to adjust them every time they get bumped
3) Honda 76810-TK8–A01 windshield spray pattern nozzels for windshield fluid

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll look into those. I had an 02 Years back and really liked the mirrors on it. Are yours electric? My truck is manual everything so I’ll thinking about how I’d power them. I’ll check into that gentex as well.

I already have a decent list of things to do. I wish there were 30 hours in the day so I could work on my truck that much more and get more things done...lol.

 

The mirrors were electric that I installed but I did not wire them up. The (glass) mirrors are in The mirror housing and once they are setup adjusted they don’t need to be rejusted. They are break away so if they are hit they pop back into place and the mirror housing are fitted in place so after a car wash the mirrors are still good to go unlike the old style the mirror glass and housing are all one unit and no break away and need to be adjusted all the time

 

Nice. Thanks for the info on that. I may keep my eye out for a set.