Recharging system issue

I read all connections are good, and cables have no visible damage on them...

I noticed you mentioned corrosion, could it be that corrosion somewhere is not letting all the juice flow thru?

Not sure where you are located tho, or if its an issue there...

 

Corrosion was because someone mentioned that after cleaning them well they should not be corroded within a month again and it MIGHT have something to do with the problem. Salt air from the ocean but nothing thats given me trouble in the last 3 years or with any other vehicle. I edited a previous post with the alternator readings.

Something that I found online that has not been mentioned on the thread is belt tension. I don't know the vehicle specs but there is very little give to the belt. Before replacing the alternator I painted the bolt threads and tightened back to that level.

 

I missed this post. That shows alternator not charging.

 

Key on during this test?

 

You know what, the key was not on . Still in learning phase for this forgive me. Disregard the previous. I'll retake it and get back. I'll also take some multi-meter checks on both the alternator AND the wires going to the vehicle. This was just the wires. Raining right now so it'll be a while.

 

You need to check the battery voltage while the engine is running. Should be 13.5-14.5v. If you are in the 12s, then your alt isn't work. Either you have a loose/bad connection or your belt isn't on properly and could be slipping

 

The key was off for these tests? Either Pin 1 or Pin 2 should be 12+ volts with key in ON position.

On the 96 there is an 80A ALT fusible link and a 7.5A (?) ALT-S fuse. The ALT-S fuse is in line with one of the 3 small wires, maybe the constant voltage one, so yours is probably good if that's the pin 3 wire. 80A ALT protects the big wire coming back to the battery (+).

 

Looks the white and the red should have power with key on. S & IG

 

The 3 pin connector wires are labeled B in the diagram but they are not the 3 wires next to each other on the right side of the alternator in the diagram. Kind of funny how Toyota drew it that way.

 

You right.. Damn didn't even catch that.

FIXED IT.

 

This is after the battery grounds have all been cleaned.

Also once the system voltage drops to low the ECM shuts down to protect it`s self


I would look at the ECM ground !!

If this is loose or corroded it will cause the shutdown of the engine .

As the battery charge light seems to work it would appear the alternator is putting out enough to satisfy that .

Then OP had the time where things worked fine

Much more fun to deal with these things in person

No one you can borrow a battery from??

It comes down to bad battery or a poor connection

Battery almost sulfated the bouncing of driving is enough to short out enough cells it quits .

During a static test it checks out just fine.

Just things that drove me crazy over the years

 

Ok, I have new readings-

Alternator I could not get any readings. It's not hooked up to anything so that did not surprise me. As for the 3 pin wire going to the vehicle, with key turned on (auxiliary), using multimeter;

For pins 1-3 refer not to the diagram but to photo below. Taken left to right.

Pin 1 Yellow: .01
Pin 2 Red: .03 (started at .05, moved down to .01, after retesting a few times held at .03)
Pin 3 White: All over the place ranging from 3.00s to 12.80s. Lots of fast movement. It held for a moment longer at 12.11

On this test I noticed the 3 pin connector face (diagram G2B black lower right corner) DOES have some damage to the plastic. Originally when I checked it I was paying close attention to the wire itself and not the connector. Maybe this could be the cause?! Never spliced a wire but I can learn.



As for your diagram its a bit over my head at this time. I can follow some things but I'm making guesses and assumptions about some of the symbols and the actual direction the electricity is flowing in some locations. Plus I don't know what half of the items actually are. Edit~ I can go out and learn how to read basic symbols of this diagram but may need help with someone directing me to anything you tell me to look at.

 

As for fuses Checked both the 7.5 "Alt-S" and 120A "Alt" in the under hood fuse box. Both good, no issues.



Have not found the ECM ground wire yet. Looked at a few photos and watched a video but not specifically for a Tacoma. If you can tell me the location I'll verify its tight and solid.

Working on a battery borrow.

Battery is locked in tight with the bracket holding it, it wont bounce more then my entire vehicle does. I was not experiencing the problem before the alternator went bad though.

As mentioned before, belt is secure. No belts have more then a few mm of play. The only one that was adjusted was the alternator belt and I painted the bolt threads to bring to the same location.

During the battery test many people have mentioned 12s are too low. Out of the vehicle the alternator checked out (these are the only numbers I dont have on paper). Anytime I have a test done in the vehicle they say 12s are low but shouldnt cause failure.

 

So if I was to work on it today or tomorrow whats the verdict?

Try to find a battery to borrow. If not figure out how to buy and replace the 3 pin connector. If there are no batteries to borrow and the 3 pin does not connect then buy the battery (closer to 3 years old). Then, regrettably, throw it in the shop if this does not work.


Ask away for any pictures or more info. Ask away for any trouble shooting options.

 

12s are too low if your engine is running. If your engine is running and your alt is properly connected, you should have at least 13.5 volts measured at the battery terminals. Anything in the 12s indicates that your battery isn't charging, there is a loose connection somewhere or the alt is bad.

 

You want the key ON not in Auxiliary or ACC position. It needs to be ON.

 

Sometimes getting a good reading can be tough because the terminals are behind some plastic. Try taking a paper clip and flattening one side with a hammer. Then slide it in the terminal and touch your tester lead to the paper clip. KEY ON

 

Alright, Key on "ON", and I was able to get some readings that didnt bounce around as much (thin nail hammered down flat). The engine was NOT cranked for this, simply key turned to ON. Let me know if I need the engine cranked.

Same as before, left to right

Pin 1 Yellow: 11.70
Pin 2 Red: 12.02
Pin 3 White: 12.11

As for the other post, all wires are tight. Other than that connector face all wires look good to me. I can take the alternator out of the vehicle again and run it up for another in store test. Maybe swing by a few of the shops and have each of them test it..? Here tomorrow I'll have someone available I can jump every mile to get the truck to these stores, have each of them do a another recharging system test with the vehicle running.

 

That looks normal to me. Thinking bad battery at this point. A battery with a resting voltage of less than 12 volts is a dead battery.

However, there could be something wrong with the regulator on the alt. When they test the alt, do they plug it in via the rear plug, or do they just hook up the ring lead and test that way? Testing it like that will only tell half the story

 

Good enough for me to go on at the moment.

I'm going to try some felt washers and grease first and see if it'll stay up or if I get better readings anywhere. $5 before $105 and if I'm out $5 it is what it is. I'm asking around for a loaner battery too that'll fit. If not, new battery before shop.

Guys don't hesitate to share anything else. I'll share updates as I progress.