New England B.S. Thread

Even if you don't care about being competitive it's worth it for those reasons

 

I do get a good bit of freedom..in fairness my last 3 years of reviews I'm doing between 121 to 135 percent of expected workload, plus I train people and other things above my grade. So it's a little galling to continually watch the pets get handed everything who didn't do half of that.

 

Some items are leaking /old ( rack,struts etc.) others carrier bearing,neutral switch are $$$$ items,tires,front brakes (one caliper ) alternator.Total 15 items $6500. 10 items $4500. 7 items $2000. 3 items $850 Thanks for nothing drive away Kelly BB fair condition $ 6,316 to $8,387...Good (fix items ) $7,322 to $ 9,477 who gives BB numbers ?

 

Morning everyone. Happy hump day.

 

Happy Wednesday all

 

Probably quoting all Toyota parts with no discount on labor. Toyota rack is like 1200, aftermarket is 300. 6 hrs labor in the truck maybe an hour doing a frame to swap parts. Calipers 450 vs 150.
The area I live in we have to give the option of aftermarket because if we tried to only quote Toyota parts we wouldn’t sell any jobs. Some places can get greedy when they don’t have to worry about selling every job.

 

Why are the alternator and neutral switch suddenly an issue if they presumably worked when you last drove the truck?

When I had my 2011, my dealer told me my steering rack was starting to seep a bit but not to worry about it unless it got bad. They said they pretty much all do it around the 100k mark and sometimes they never really get any worse.

Shocks should be zero labor. They are taking them off and putting them back on anyway. Other things should be minimal labor.

 

I like my Ferd so far

Just my opinion, but reframing a truck like that is just ridiculous. You have over 300k miles on it, they should just make you a nice buy back offer and be done with it. Sure, it gets a new frame, but every other part on the truck has been through 300k miles, things wear out. And once you start tearing into something, you start breaking rusted fasteners, cracking wiring, etc and you end up with gremlins that you never get to the bottom of (or you spend a lot and replace everything).

If anything, they should give you a big discount because it would make the reinstall a LOT easier! I can't imagine what some of those components look like after that much road use.

 

That's alright, I've been poking around at 07 and older Duramax trucks

 

Morning all. Back at work again! My "what day is it?" clock is going to be all screwed up for the rest of the week now.

 

Carrier bearing isnt covered under the driveshaft recall? Neutral switch would be cheaper to buy on RockAuto for an OE parts manufacturer, brakes aren't ridiculous, but calipers should be replaced in pairs, struts really aren't that bad, and who knows how much of the stuff they said is worn out, is actually worn out... I've told some Toyota Tech's off cause they were wrong as hell, laziness. When my reg cab got a new frame they said I needed a water pump and upstrean O2 sensor (went in without a CEL and came back with one), and ebrake cable. They wanted something like $1,000 for those things. I told them to order my cable, but I'll take the truck back. O2 sensor from Toyota was $215 and Rockauto for a Denso was $110. I had a hookup with the parts department then and got my Toyota water pump for $75 (was already on my 2nd AutoZone water pump and was fed up) and the cable was like $70

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=du-TY1GUFGk

Edit:You might remember this one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LtjzQaFZ3k

 

Stupid office computer can't do the youtube any more.
I'll take a look when I get out.

 

I mean, it isn't really worth a lot of effort to watch haha

 

Damn you Wednesday, you should be Friday

 

Summer is definitely upon us.

The wife got the big check for the summer, since the last day of school is this Friday.

 

I'll drink to that

 

I have found Carmax very reasonable on older cars. Assuming you own the truck outright, this isn't a bad option. I cross compare Edmunds, KBB, and NADA quotes, average them, and then look myself in the mirror and decide what I am willing to accept, rock bottom, before ever driving out for a quote.

Ultimately, I had them do $1000 worth of work to mine I did not want / was not able to do myself. Will trickle the rest of the needed work over time. My truck has no miles on it, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to make it a brand new vehicle within a couple years of careful budgeting / elbow grease / parts scrounging. If that doesn't sound like fun for you, sell it and get the truck you want! Just $ .02

 

Carmax, for me, was right in the middle of KBB trade in value. Not sure what numbers you're giving, trade or private sale. Have you asked the dealer what they'd give you on trade for your truck?

What would they do if you tell them you don't want to sink another penny into it? They are doing the frame as a recall, I would think the items they break while trying to put the frame in would be on them.