What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Alright I'm a little stumped. My new to me transmission is bolted up to the engine and I went to re-install the clutch slave cylinder and I can't get it to line up with the bolt holes. The trucks been without a transmission for basically a year an I honestly can't remember if I ever stepped on the clutch pedal during that time. I read on another forum that I could open up the bleeder and push the slave cylinder in to make the push rod fit and when I did that last night it wouldn't budge. I read on another forum that you could use a C-clamp to compress the cylinder with the bleeder open if it wouldn't go by hand. Before I try that I could use some advice on whether this seems like it could solve the problem. This is my first time installing a transmission so I have no idea if there's something else causing the problem. I looked into the bell housing and it seemed like the clutch fork is seated nicely on the pivot ball and it slides back and forth like I assume it should.

Here's how far away I am from the bolt holes lining up when the clutch fork is all the way back and the rod is pinned between the cup in the slave cylinder and the cup in the clutch fork.



Here's what the slave cylinder looks like. Is it supposed to look like that when it's fully compressed or can it be pressed in so that the wide part of the piston is flush with the cylinder?



Here's the clutch fork



@mechanicjon @Speedytech7

Edit - looks like the slave cylinder may be seized up. Ordered a new one!

 

Push the slave cylinder piston in. Looks normal to me.

 

Go with the c-clamp and bleeder valve open technique you're saying?

I drained the master cylinder a fair bit last night so I bought some dot 4 brake fluid. If it works I'm guessing I should just flush the system?

 

If crack the bleeder valve you should be able to push it in by hand.

 

Tried that last night - wouldn't budge - maybe I'm a girly man

 

Same here. Mine made it almost exactly 20 years.

But I found someone who bought a 2nd gen and wanted to get rid of an OEM bearing he never used so I replaced it for $50.

 

Use a clamp. The clutch pedal is all the way up correct?

 

Yes, but that shouldn't matter once the bleeder valve is open since there's no mechanical connection between the slave and master cylinders right?

Edit - tried a slider clamp and same thing. I'm thinks it's seized in there after sitting for a year and it was rusty before that. Next step is replace the slave cylinder I'm guessing. Looking for the best price on a quality one. Is Aisin the way to go?

$28 AISIN CRT-014 OE Matched Clutch Slave Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JZDAW6

Paid $4 to have this here by the 3rd - otherwise it was the 5th and the suspense was too much. Lol I want to see if I made a mistake putting the trans in or not.

 

I believe that valve is supposed to be at 12 o’clock to allow air bubbles to pass through.

 

Many debates have been had whether it goes at 6 or 12 - some came from the factory at 12, but the fsm states 6, maybe someone can be original and try 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, or 11... just kidding

iirc @1997tacomav6 did this recently

 

https://gearjunkie.com/toyota-tacoma-overland-build
Why do I see some of us doing this lol

 

Changed mine in February. It was installed the year prior by Hendrick Toyota at 12:00. The truck ran between 198-206. I put it in at 6:00. Truck now runs between 187-193.

 

Haha yup, 12 o’clock added 4 degress or so and 6 o’clock runs 4 degrees less, I tried both ways a number of moths ago,
I did install a new fan clutch yesterday because the truck was sounding like a garage truck
and now it runs as low as 184 degrees, never run that cool before in the summer but maybe it’s because I installed the fan clutch at 2 or 3 or maybe 5 o’clock, haha, just kidding

 

floods work great, I have them on 2 trucks for over 2 yrs. now w/ NO problems

 

on my 02 the trans temp light is on the left side of the tach.

 

Is this the bleeder mounted on the DS of the transmission just above the front transfer cas - driveshaft UJoint? I’ve bleed the other 5 (4 at wheels & 1 at proportioning valve) - might just as well do this one too.

 

Called the dealership about 4 bolts for the “engine rear mounting bracket” to “transmission” which a yotatech thread listed as 14mm head - 10mm x 1.25mm x 22mm... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/cross-member-transmission-bolt-size-210153/ and they couldn’t locate them without a part number bc their system scrubs older vehicle parts out over time... he said it was just as easy to get from a hardware store.

Asked about the frame recall - no go for mine (good & bad - as I just cleaned a bunch of it up, but a new frame would be nice.)

Asked about any other recalls - and this popped up for the LBJ assemblies. That could be really good as I’m planning on doing those bushings anyways (Energy Suspension Bushing Kit just arrived Thursday), but maybe I’ll get new LBJ installed free of charge. Recall # 50J - https://repairpal.com/recall/05V225000

And a very critical recall “The spare tire in the subject vehicles is located underneath the rear of the vehicle and held by a spare tire carrier. A lift plate on the carrier is used to help raise, lower and retain the tire. During its manufacture, the lift plate may not have been sufficiently coated with anti-corrosion materials. If the plate is insufficiently coated and the vehicle is operated in cold climate regions where road salts are frequently used, road spray can reach the carrier assembly and corrode the lift”

Should I stop wasting my time cleaning this up and maybe they’ll just give me a new 1 AND the spare tire crank (I never had) and thought to fabricate with another relic & poached from my old man?

 

My 02 -2.7 , Auto ,idles @ 500-600 when at operating Temp- a little higher w/ AC on! What it came from shouldn't matter

 

I had mine replaced on the recall , Recall covers the Lift assembly, pulley & mounting plate -I doubt they will cover the cranking handle .

 

If the bleeder is open it doesn't matter.

I put mine in at 9:00 o'clock 2 months ago. Seems to run a few degrees warmer.