Our AC system SUCKS

I did. Since we're treating them as such .

I don't use AC in either of my trucks (one has the system ripped out) but I do go from one AC cooled destination to another.

 

Somebody PLEASE! Merge these threads!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/increase-a-c-performance.554887/#post-18081971

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/our-ac-system-sucks.556361/#post-18148789

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bebop’s-texas-summer-a-c-thread.556250/#post-18143833

 

Mexico spec meaning trucks manufactured for retail sale in Mexico. Manufacturers will modify vehicles to work better in their intended environment/country or even the area of the country. Bigger batteries and washer tanks, etc. in harsher climate areas.

For example. I’m betting your truck came with a 24F battery. Out here in AZ, all 4.0 Tacos came with 27F batteries.

 

Took my out of warranty 2014 in b/c the cool air started to blow in one dashboard vent only. The others were weak, warm airflow. Dealer was a bit perplexed but repaired and recharged for free. Texas heat can't be beat back unless windows are up in recirc mode.

 

Upon inspection of the diagram, what I have found is the usual suspects, power and ground exist at the plug for a 2008 Toyota Tundra, but the center pin wire at the connector connects directly to the AC amplifier which in their case is actually the digital HVAC unit. Inside of the unit, it uses its own built in resistor which will likely send the fan the proper voltage regulation it needs based on speed.

If we are able to utilize a blower from a Tundra, Avalon, or even Sequoia, and the fan physically fits ours properly, I don't see a reason why we can't turn the third pin into a dummy and utilize our current resistored power and ground setup.

 

I got white with aftermarket tinted side windows which helps alot

 

This is good news. I will see if I can get my hands on one of the blower motors. Sienna/Sequoia are for sure the biggest. I think tgey may be physically too big. But the avalon/camry/venza/tundra are all the same. So there is a possibility we could make it work maybe. I’ll let you know what I find out.

 

Yeah keep me updated and If they are the same bolt pattern I'll get to work on my own as the guinea pig!

Faster, quieter airflow from our trucks is finally in our sights!

 

I am even thinking if they aren’t the same bolt pattern maybe we can make them fit still and get a spacer to change the bolt pattern. Or swap the damn motors.
I am fed up of having to use max fan the whole time in summer.

 

@12TRDTacoma I totally agree with what seems to be shotty reliability of electric fan controllers. I also wanted a pwm style controller which is why I got the one I did. I also agree about clutch fan reliability. It becomes less effective over time because of the oil viscosity loss but still will almost always work somewhat unless all the oil leaks out.

With electric obviously there are more parts AND the whole controller reliability factor. This is the one I went with.

It's pretty stout internally and not digital so hopefully I never have a problem with it.

This is the temperature probe.
So you can adjust the speed of the fan for whatever your a/c system requires but the engine cooling needs will override control to keep the engine cool if required.
It is a soft start system meaning voltage will start slow preventing huge amp draws when the fan starts. Important considering the fan I'm using draws around 40 amps at full load.
The big thing with these pwm type controllers is that the fan should never even be close to max rpm. It rises and lowers to controll radiator outlet temps.

 

I'm not following how a different fan will help much. Especially the case the speeds 1,2,3 aren't that much differnt. Fan speed is controlled by the Blower resistor. If you want a faster fan I'd say you can probably change resistive values.

 

Solutions not problems right?! I would actually be on board with swapping out internal motors as well or making an adapter plate if absolutely need be. The system leaves a lot to be desired as a whole so in doing this, perhaps we can begin to right some of the wrongs on Toyota's end for giving us such a subpar HVAC system.

The only item I don't have a complaint about is the heater. Boy does that thing get HOT during the winter!

Where does that probe attach? The AC low side line on the metallic part? That looks like quite a nice controller. Where do you intend on mounting it, interior or exterior?

I actually have my beliefs that perhaps these PWM fan controller are failing perhaps due to extreme engine underhood temps rather than poor electronics. If that can be run in the interior than we may be in a better position as a whole.

 

I actually believe you have a point and at one point I contemplated what you are saying. Does anyone know if our resistors are placed inside the fan or are they external units?

 

They are external, just downstream from the Blower.

 

If they are downstream from the blower than theoretically we could utilize a resistor from a different model or even brand vehicle. I know the first generation wave of 2nd gens utilized a GM plug from like an S10 or something if I recall correctly.

 

I'm talking just solder a resistor (like from RadioShack) onto the Blower resistor.

 

It’s down stream and I believe it is also known to burn up and then the fan only works on the highest setting. Happened to my reg cab taco. Not sure if it’s a problem in newer models.

 

That's so simple it should be criminal.

As for me that has officially reached the end of my knowledge because I am not too familiar with what value resistor would be required to make these things blow faster.

I believe the problem has been corrected on the newer models. I also believe the resistor itself received a superseded PN at some point.

 

I'm pretty sure it's been talked about, but either no one's acted on it or it wasn't feasible.

 

I'm going to take a look into this and see if it is. I may just pull it out today or study the images of it shown online.