What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

The rims and door ribs give it away.

 

Use a large chain wrench on the smooth part of the balancer. Works like a champ

 

I took my ‘99 2.7l on 33s for a 16 hour 1000 mile trip. It handled well and surprised me with 18-20mpg at highway speeds. It actually netted the 20mpg tank once I hit the W.TX 80mph speed limit and was rolling 85-90mph. Passing on 75mph 2 lane highways was not the easiest to do. Had to do some Shake and Bake slingshot moves now and then.

 

How did you mount the handle inside?

 

We mounted it sideways on top of the trans tunnel hump, right behind the seats. It’s not the most ideal way to mount the handle, but it’s reachable and it allows the cable to have as few bends as possible.

 

Anyone know the (brake) fluid capacity of an 02? I'm getting ready to do the Tundra swap and want to completely flush the brake fluid before installing the new lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders.

Ordering the fluid but don't want to not order enough... or order too much (brake fluid has a shelf life)

Edit: Should have specified, looking for (brake) fluid capacity of an 02 with 231mm Tundra brakes... I'm assuming the larger calipers add capacity over the Field Service Manual spec.

 

Similkameen river. That’s the Chilkat conversion hey? Looks wicked!

 

I finally had a chance to test out the truck after re assembling the steering column. For those who didn’t read my post before, I did the steering shaft mod which involved tack welding the shaft between the steering wheel and the box. The procedure is best outlined here: It took me about 45 minutes to disassemble the shaft and about 1 hr to re assemble paying close attention to making sure the support bolts were tight! – It appears more daunting in the guide than it really is. Realistically you could do this job without the guide.


The improvement was immediate. My truck has 220k on the clock and it had a very very small amount of play in the shaft when taken apart however this was enough to make it wander all over the lane on the highway. If your suspension components are in good shape, have had an alignment recently but still am fighting to keep it going straight on the highway… I would give this mod a serious look. It’s basically free if you can weld or know somebody who does. It took my buddy about 10 min to weld up after convincing him I wouldn’t sue him if it failed!!

@whitetaco01

 

This is on list of things I want to do but will never get around to doing because time and money lol. Looks clean. Did you sand down and bondo over the cut slats on the edge?

 

is it a manual.. is the next question

 

The handle has always been the reason I walk away from buying this product. I wished they had a better system for actuating the cable and locking it. Thank you.

 

Nope. My roommate drives the p*ss out of that thing though in rain, snow, zero maintenance, never washed. It's a champ.

I didn't bondo or fiberglass anything for this go around. Wasn't worth the time IMO, the gaps are barely noticeable from an angle and invisible head on.

 

I would like to find a 2 door 1st gen rav4 in manual..

but instead, I just bought a 1997 Honda Accord manual, with 275k miles. Preparing to drive the piss out of it, but with a little maintenance

 

Ah, nice looking spot!
Yeah the Chilkat kit is pretty slick, definitely the way to go if you don’t have all the wiring and everything and you’re converting to an elocker axle.

 

It continues to amaze me how people convince themselves cheaper is just as good or better when talking about lower ball joints. When there is proof everywhere they need to use OEM. Example: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ball-joints.266989/page-3#post-6650774
Yes mechanics will say Moog is just as good, that"s because mechanics don't use their trucks the way a lot of people on TW do or the fact that they can get Moog down the street at the local parts store and would have to order and wait on OEM parts.
You may use Moog and never have a problem if you don't offroad. People say I offroad, I"m not talking about people that think a dirt road is offroading.



Most on here that offroad do this kind of offroading.

If these people that do this kind of offroading and most of them do their on mechanical work, recommend OEM then I would take their word over the mechanic that most of them never offroad and most don't want to hold up getting paid waiting on OEM parts.

My family rides in my truck from time to time and I would not feel good knowing there was a safer part for my truck and I used a cheaper one to save money. You may use Moog and never have a problem but if there is better why would you not use them?

Oh and I don't make 6 figures and own three to maintain also.

 

It would be pretty easy to come up with a different pull cable actuator to make it much more compact. You can buy the individual pieces of the kit also, just leave out the handle portion.

 

Well put!! I do NOT do that kind of Off Roading. I said "I use my truck for hunting and everyday use." NOT climb on top of rocks. I am pretty sure that there are others on here who do not crawl over rocks, as well.

 

Yes but why use cheaper if there is better that was my point?
Pay now or pay later.

 

I see now how this forum is. There is always that one guy??? I'm not on here to prove anything, FYI> Nor am I on here to dispute or argue with anyone. If you do not want people to post under " What did you do to your Tacoma Toady," then make sure to advise the people not to do it. I guess we cannot all be like you. With this being said, I am done posting period!! Yes!!! I can handle criticism much more than the common person considering my profession. I was under the impression that this site was "fun"to be on??? Oh well.

 

I'm glad it worked for you, it'll be close enough anyway, our systems use an expansion valve so if you overcharge it it just stops working as well.