Show off your aux fuse panels.

I get it scott. Thank you sir. My search continues. I'll let ya'll know how I make out....

 

Cool Jason. Thanks.!

 

For those of you running your aux fuse panel off of the auxillary dual battery, can you show the location of where you protected the fuse box with either 100 A fuse of circuit breaker? Matt from OGE recommended it be no more than 8-12 inches from the battery. Since the circuit breaker comes to be mounted and that seems like a more popular option I'm curious how y'all have been doing that...

 

Nothing that fancy, not running air compressor, not running dual batteries and only 1 set of lights running off it right now...............(pic is before lights hooked up)

 

I'm gathering the parts to build me one of these - does anyone use a a solenoid between the circuit breaker and the aux fuse box? The idea being that I would wire the solenoid to switch on with the keyed power and thus control power to the aux fuse box and accessories. Something like this:

$17 RAREELECTRICAL New 12V 150A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay Compatible With Golf Carts 300A In Rush By Part Numbers 1114208 15-88 1588 SWX88 1513215108 1114218 5117340 SWX88 502265300 SWX-88 15-132

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGTL9G...&pd_rd_r=c2532d76-8532-11e8-9f96-9391f60fc1b0

 

I think most people just use an ign keyed trigger wire for the relays instead of a solenoid for the whole fuse panel.

 

So run the power for the switches to a switched source in the cab fuse box and then run the switch to the relay? I'm a newb at this and there's clearly some parts I'm not getting!

Essentially if the switch doesn't have power then it can't trip the relay - eliminating the risk of leaving something on when I turn the truck off?

 

Exactly. There are things that I want to be able to run without ignition on and those get powered straight from the rtmr.

 

Makes sense - thanks. If I run the entire aux box with a solenoid I'd lose the ability to run anything without the truck being on.... Thanks!

 

It's not needed because the relays you'll find will have an option to turn them on/off with the ignition if you wire them properly.

 

it will depends on what his end goal is. if he doesnt want any of that aux fuse box powered when the car is off then he will need a high powered relay. I dont think i would use a old school solenoid, as they make some nicer ones.

 

I think I want the option to run stuff while the truck is off - on board air maybe - roof rack lights. I would want driving/bumper lights switched though.

 

then he is right, just run the wire (short wire) from the battery to the circuit breaker to your fuse block. from there you will setup your relays and allow them to be triggered if the car is on or off

 

Since I want to have power ports that are always hot I'll be using the 12v socket line to feed a separate aux fuse box that's ignition only for low power items so I don't need a fuse tap. It's located under the cup holders in my 5m. I removed the clips and filed down the rear tab to make it easier to pull out but it still snaps in securely enough. I like that spot as you don't need to be a contortionist to access it or see it.

 

Some nice setups here.

Still need to wire up another panel in the bed cubby.

 

The left was a failed attempt. But the right, has rear support leg to hold up the

$338 ckma12 on-board air compressor high performance 12 volt for air locker differentials and tire inflation

ckma12. Hopefully I can fit a breaker and a blue sea fuse block upfront? it’ll be tight, but I think it will work.

 

Kinda like this....... but the

$338 ckma12 on-board air compressor high performance 12 volt for air locker differentials and tire inflation

ckma12 in back instead.

 

Just double checking to make sure I have this right. I've got a pelfrey aux fuse plate, blue sea fuse box and am adding a breaker. The breaker gets rated for the maxium the box can handle correct? Which the one I have is the 2 banks of 6 circuits rated at 30amp / circuit.

 

Yes, the breaker is for the fuse box but not for the sum of all the 30A circuits it can hold. Each box has a max amp rating, that's the rating the breaker should have. The Bussman rtmr is 80A and one of the Blue Seas models is 100A.

 

Just about done. Have to make the 4awg ground and positive cables and connect them but overall happy so far. Thanks to ALL for the inspiration, ideas and help!

Anyone know the bolt size to mount the panel to the fender well?