ABS, Brake! & Traction Control lights on

Thank you very much for your post TexS4 has helped me in a great way since I have the same problem change the sensor, the only thing is that I have not verified the voltage but I am sure it is the cable as it happened. I read it from the beginning and in truth everyone helped with the advice until I could solve the problem. thanks again

 

I just checked the voltages and on the passenger side (right) only gives 1.35 and on the driver's side (left) 11.43 and on s22 11.42 on the two points. I can see that it is the same cable that is hurting you is the same one that hurt me. Thank you

 

Awesome news that you were able to fix it! In glad this thread helped you.

 

Thank you Merry Christmas

 

I could solve the problem had the cable broken near one of the anchor points, thanks to this post that was very helpful for all those who thought and for the photo that added to the post thanks to all the lights went out and you can see again and also I fell in love with my tacoma, because it really bothers me to see the lights of the cluster turned on and not have any failure in the vehicle. Thank you and happy Christmas and happy new year from Puerto Rico

 

Very glad you fixed it and found the point of failure in the wiring harness. I'm like you in that I couldn't stand seeing lights on my dash.

Feliz Anu!!!

 

This thread helped me out a ton. My rear pass side had a tear that I was able to solder back together. No more lights on in the cluster. Thanks for the info!

 

Thanks OP, just had everything light up on me on the way home from the car wash. Speedo acted up for a couple seconds before the lights which is leading me to believe it's somewhere in the rear. I'm going to pull the wheel sensors and clean them off and see what happens. My question is, how do I go about manually clearing ABS faults, battery disconnect?

 

Great thread OP. FWIW third gens do not need to have the fault cleared by Toyota or TechStream. I simply swapped my harness and all my lights went away

 

I hate ABS but I love cruise control haha.

 

Not to threadjack but I had the same indications and the code was c0210 RR Wheel Sensor. Turned out the RR Wheel Bearing was bad. Here's the thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-lights-fixed-bad-rear-wheel-bearing.561813/

 

Hey all.. im having the same problem. Getting a 39 code showing rear driver sensor issue. I removed and cleaned the sensor but when reinstalling it doesnt go flush? Also could anyone please tell this fool how to set this multimeter to check voltage at the connector for the rear sensor? Thank you for your help. Im hoping this isnt a nightmare fix.

 

V with the straight line above it is for DC voltage. Did you tighten the sensor down or just try to press it in flush? Make sure the o-ring didn’t hang up.

 

Thank you. I tightened it down but there is still a space. I couldnt get a reading from the harness that plugs into the sensor itself with the ignition on. Does the truck need to be running?

 

I don't remember if the truck had to be running or not, sorry. It certainly wouldn't hurt to have it running and check again. You should be reading around 10-11 VDC. Not sure if you sprayed PB Blaster or something similar to remove the bolts on the sensor, but it does look like you have some seepage on the backplate at the hub, that might be an indicator of a leaking seal. The bearing was shot on my truck and the seal was leaking just enough that it created this black graphite looking grease that was all over the sensor. I ended up having the bearings/seals replaced on both sides.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-lights-fixed-bad-rear-wheel-bearing.561813/

 

Yeah, I had a leaking axle seal that we just fixed on Saturday. Immediately after putting everything back together and driving a few hundred feet, all of the brake lights came on. I'm wondering if goop washed into where the sensor reads from, or if the harness that plugs into the sensor was damaged...

 

If you have any crap in the tone ring it could interrupt the signal to the sensor which would throw the code. Did you check again to see if you're getting voltage at the connector, if not that's probably where your problem is. Did you overextend/stretch that cable?

 

I didnt get a chance to get back out tonight. Ill check the connector again tomorrow, this time trying with a probe in each of the connector holes, last time i tried using the body to ground. I do not think the connector was stretched but the tab was broken upon removal so something definitely could have been jarred loose. However the 39 code points to debris on the sensor, which seems strange to me if the connector wire was busted. I can also try cleaning the tone ring somehow..