Turn Signal Wiring / Fixing Hyperflashing

Yeah I never had one side or the other work fine, but they would work fine if the headlights were off but not on.

 

Can you post more pictures of how you spliced the wires please? And where did you connect the left portion of the red wire coming from the resistor?

 

Read the thread lol.

I already posted a link to the detailed wiring diagram:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rake-and-signals.471450/page-11#post-16612198

 

You sure about that? I have LED flashers in the front and no hyper flashing. The blinkers are left and right so only 1 resister should be needed for the set

 

It seems to vary truck to truck.

I didn't need it in mine once I had the pair of them in the rear, or larger resistance one. If I had added them in the front too, it probably also would have fixed the problem.

 

So I’ve tried all 3 wires on both sides with my resistors, still hyper flash. Is it possible the resistors are too low of a resistance?

 

You could need to add some. These trucks seem finicky and what works for one doesn't for another.

 

It seems as if these resistors work when they’re not plugged in. As these came with resistors and have a plug into the actual light

 

I had a set for all four corners but only needed the resistors for the rear. Apparently, the chips in the fronts worked fine. Thanks for the post op.

 

TL;DR: 2 resistors @ 50W/3Ohm fixed my 2.5 gen Taco

I swapped out every bulb on my 2014 DCSB with DTRL except for headlights (low beam / high beam) and fog lights. I had some mad hyperblink, so I bought 4 resistors @ 50 Watt/3 Ohm but only needed to install one in each of the tail light turn signals to fix hyperblinking all the way around. I found it hard to find conclusive information on what to do with this 2.5 gen and DTRLs, that's why I'm sharing.

 

I opted to change the entire relay out instead of cutting up the harness and installing resistors. In my experience, load resistors can get very warm and that makes me a little nervous.

 

That’s definitely the way to go, if it’s an option. That’s what I tried first... but for DTRLs like mine it’s not an option, unfortunately. There’s no plug-n-play relay available. I have read about some people soldering resistors to the bridge in the DTRL unit under the dash but that seems more dodgy than adding a wiretap to a taillight.

For the brief and intermittent periods that I’m using my turn signals, I’m not concerned about the resistors heating up to any significant level. They’re also bolted to the steel fender, and clear of any wires or plastic, so even if they do get hot (eg. waiting through multiple red lights in a turning lane) I don’t expect it to cause any issues.

I’ve read lots of accounts of people doing this to undoubtedly different standards of quality/care and have yet to hear of one incident.

 

My concern was for leaving my flashers on for extended periods of time, ie. while helping someone on the side of the road etc.

Are you sure that the smarttap relay wouldn’t work with day time running lights?

https://www.diodedynamics.com/smart...MI1MqGksu46AIVF2KGCh2PogX0EAQYASABEgK-XfD_BwE

 

Yeah, I’m positive. I was vehemently against adding resistors because it seemed/seems like such a hack, but as far as I know it’s the only option. You either add them inline with the lamps or you add them in the flasher assembly. I’d love to be wrong about this (let me know!).

The one you linked to is the Sequoia-specific product page, but it’s the same CF-18 listed for the Tacoma that is specifically non-DTRL: https://www.diodedynamics.com/smarttap-led-flasher-for-2005-2015-toyota-tacoma.html

Tacomas with DTRLs use a 12-pin connector, so that one wouldn’t even physically fit.

 

Quick question guys. I only want to swap my front turn signals on my 21 SR5 the front turn signals also run DTRL do you like if I had two 6ohm 50w resistors to the front turn signals that it would fix the hyper flashing? I’ve noticed that because the led bulbs don’t have a passive heat sink that if I run the DTRL on the truck it gets hot and causes the hyperflashing don’t know if it’s the temp that actually causes the hyper flashing or I just need the load resistors.