Buyobuyo's Build Thread

Just gotta use a smaller part of the triangle near the tip when you're working around a curve.

 

I guess so, but my dremel has so many attachments that make it ideal for fitment.

 

I kept working on the passenger fender fitment yesterday. It's almost finished. There's still one small spot at the a pillar that is touching on the underside. I got it so I can run a piece of paper around the headlight. I also need to do a little work to get the trim piece under the headlight to fit better as it's pressing into the grill and bowing.

This is where the headlight gap ended up at. The light is still pushed to the driver side, so it's touching the grill. At this point, I think the only way to fix it is major surgery to either the fender or headlight.

 

My friend came over again today, and we got the driver side fender to about the same point that the passenger side fender is at in about 1/3 of the time.





Gap on this side is smaller between the back of the light and fender. The headlight is over a hair too far toward the passenger side, so the headlight and grill touch near the top of the turn signal. They don't touch at the bottom.



The bottom part of the fender on this side sticks out for whatever reason. I think I'd have to chop and reattach the piece to make it line up right.



Need to work a little to the top of the door line to open up the gap some. It's a bit too close for my liking.



Need to knock the inside corner back a little, so things don't end up rubbing.

 

Mine fit about the same trimed alot in same areas. Passenger side fit around headlight has the same gap. My driver side fit better.

 

Did you have any issues with the headlights being too far inboard? Mine are hitting the grill in the same spot on both sides (right around the top of the turn signal reflector cavity).

 

Did some more work on the fenders. I clearanced the fiberglass under the headlight tab. It helped a little. The tab is still floating as that part of the original fender was higher than the radiator support. They dropped the thickness of the fiberglass and are even with the fiberglass now. If the headlights shake when driving, there is a hole in the radiator support under each of the tabs that I can put a bolt through.

Here are a few before pictures showing the tab on top of the fiberglass and the gap between the tab and radiator support.






I think the next part that I'll tackle will be the fender sticking out past the headlight on the driver side. I was searching last night for some tutorials on repairing fiberglass because I was thinking that I would have to cut and rejoin the offending area. I came across some videos that showed heating the fiberglass and bending it to shape, so I'm thinking that will be my first attempt.

@PyritePirateBill @Casper66 Either of you ever heated fiberglass to bend it or heard of it before?

 

I haven’t personally perhaps Bill has I just cut it and reshape it and reglass for repair

 

Priming in progress.

 

First coat of bedliner.

 

How is the LT install coming?

 

The front is installed. I dropped the truck off with Dan to do the install because of all the welding work needed for the gussets, etc. I haven't posted any pictures yet because it looks goofy AF right now. Dan didn't adjust the coilovers at all, so it's sitting way too high right now (nearly no down travel). I had Baja Kits build them with 700# springs instead of 600# springs because of the extra weight upfront with my bumper, winch, and IFS skid, so that's why it's so tall. I've got around 2" of thread showing above the collar, so I should be able to drop it to center the uniballs.

I've got a pretty good rub on the passenger side reservoir hose from the drive home, as well. Hopefully, adjusting the collars will take care of the hose rubbing. If not, I'll talk to Dan about moving the reservoir mounts.

The limit straps need adjusting as well, but the adjustable hangers might need moving as it looks like there maybe side loading on them when extended. I need to jack up the truck to check. I've just been feeling lazy on the weekends and too tired/hot after work.

 

Meant to post an update last weekend but being a lazy bum won out. Oh well... Better late than never, I suppose.

I got the @Mobtown Offroad IFS skid installed back on June 21. It looks and fits great. I still hate Rustoleum Bed Liner. For supposedly being for lining truck beds, it scratches/scrapes off if you look at it funny. Even if you give it a week to cure when it's only supposed to take 3 days.

As alluded to in my last post, I had Dan (@DOUBLLD) install the Baja Kits +2 LT kit, TC Coil Bucket gussets, TC LCA Cam Tab gussets, and limit strap hardware back at the beginning of June. Last weekend, I finally adjusted the coilovers, so the collar is all the way at the top of the coilover. The truck is sitting better, but it is still a little nose high. I'm most likely going to need to swap to 600# springs like Baja Kits specs (maybe 650# springs), but I want to see how it sits after I get the rear installed and see if it settles any once I get some miles on them. I went with 700# springs based on posts on here about people running OEM series Kings going to 700# springs after putting on bumpers, skids, etc. However, I didn't account for the fact that my bumper is aluminum, so it's half the weight of a steel bumper. I'm also a 4 cylinder, which weights a few hundred pounds less than the v6.



The reservoir hose is rubbing on the UCA still, which is keeping me from being able to drive the truck. I contacted Baja Kits about the problem, and they said King's solution is to hit the fitting with a rubber mallet to bend the bit of metal tube of the reservoir hose. While I'm sure it would work, I'm leery of kinking/breaking the bit of metal tube or fucking up the fitting where the hose connects to the coilover body.




I picked up new wheels/tires from @Discount Tire Direct during their Memorial Day sale and put them on last weekend as well. My original plan was to step up to a 285/70 with a 17x9 wheel. I wanted a 6-spoke wheel, so my options were limited. I considered the Relation Race Wheel RR-2 in 17x8.5 but decided I wanted/needed a shallower BS to fill out my fiberglass fenders. I considered the Level 8 Mk6 is 17x9, but while I was talking to the DTD sales rep, we found out they were discontinued when Level 8 was bought out by Tuff recently. In the end, I went with the Black Rhino Roku in 17x9.5 with a 4.5" BS. I decided to go up in tire size to 315/70 due to the increase in wheel width.



The final issue is the limit strap hangers, but Dan's agreed to take care of those whenever I can get the truck back up to him. It should all be in a straight line instead of zigzagging.

 

Trucks lookin good you’ll be out there tearing up the trails in no time!

 

Good to see you got all of it on. You still planning to go to iron pig for the rear?

 

Thanks, Chris. That's what I'm hoping.

That's what I'm leaning toward. They've done your truck twice now and work primarily on Toyotas. Big Snatch is the only other shop that I talked to. They gave me a price that's half of IPOR, but they didn't put anything in writing or do an actual quote/estimate. Based on what's parked outside their shop/store, they do primarily Jeeps. I've tried stopping to talk to Forged Specialties twice now, and no one is there even though they should be open based on the times listed on their website.

 

Can you whip one of these up for me? I'll gladly pay! Been looking for an upgrade

 

It's just some channel iron, square tube, and a couple of longer bolts. I've got plenty of the tube and channel leftover, so it shouldn't be an issue to whip up something. I'd just need to crawl under the truck and measure because I didn't make note of the measurements. The actual bearing is from Inland Empire Driveline. Their 1.181" bore Ford Ranger bearing (part number 211590-1XS).

 

Its what I have been thinking of doing for a long time, but I dont have a garage to do fun projects. Just a tiny engine building cabinet lol

 

I feel your pain. I don't have a garage either. Luckily, I have access to the auto hobby shop at work and machine shop/workshop areas at work.