1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

A good machine shop with a tig welder should be able to fix those holes lickety split, fairly common problem unfortunately.

It's an original TRD unit, not the later LCE branded one. You'd have to request a carb sticker for it from LCE, you just stick that under your hood somewheres so the SMOG ref can verify. The S/C has a model number stamped in it somewhere but I haven't seen a carb num. You would need to order the carb legal 4psi pulley from LCE too as I have a URD pulley on there that is not carb approved.

 

Would using the URD pulley make a huge difference versus the carb legal one?

 

More “boost”

 

Sure it's got a CARB stamp.
psssss @Speedytech7

 

Would a smog tech care since it’s part of the supercharger? I doubt he would check for PSI.

 

It's hard to tell, for one reason or another my setup is making the carb pulley PSI but I'm at 1100' altitude and I might have a boost leak somewhere. The urd pulley should make around 5.5-6.5psi but it reliably makes 4-4.5 on mine, which could just be from me having a really efficient exhaust with the headers and short pipe. But I've seen it spike to 6psi a few times too so I might just have a bad crank pulley on my 3RZ for all I know.

 

It doesn’t look like it belong so it might not pass visual smog

 

They don't check PSI. sometimes measure the pulley though, they know the diameter it should be from the the SMOG cert number

 

Luckily its easy to change pullies when its smog check time

 

Gotcha. How much of a performance difference would it be?

 

Between pulley's maybe 15-30hp depending, each PSI is arguable an additional 10hp but that can vary a lot if your engine is higher volumetric efficiency. The smallest LCE pulley looks like the smog legal one and make 10+psi supposedly and can put you well into the mid 200hp range

 

That would be hard to tell for your truck and with out a dyno

 

I think I’ll keep the performance one on there and just swap it out when it comes time to SMOG. Is it like a GM pulley where you have to press it on and off with the tool?

 

It's is a tight friction fit with a woodruff key, but you can remove it with a 3 jaw puller really easily (it's just tight enough you can't do it with your hands). Just have to either move your whole radiator out of the way or take the shroud off.

 

Is the shaft threaded on the inside so you can use a pulley tool, or do you have to use a 3 prong puller?

 

It has external threads for the nut that secures it but I would really just use a small 3 jaw it has holes through it so you could probably make a puller easily too. This is the pulley...

https://www.urdusa.com/urd-supergrip-pulley-trdalpinelce-supercharger-23rz-engines/

 

How do you press it back on?

BTW - do you think I would need to run a 5th injector?

 

It would help with high rpm pinging

 

Get it nice and hot and expanded and slip it on with a wee bit of light lube. Or just use the nut to get it on...

I would recommend some form of extra fueling. I'm going full retard next time with turbo and standalone so I can really fine tune the fueling to avoid spark knock.

 

Low RPM pinging... high RPM it'll go into open loop and dump extra fuel on its own