What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Wired the FJ Cruiser auxiliary light switch to my light bar.

 

Your right. I was thinking about running something off the firewall to the panel. Reason being, I might mount the comp towards the back and the blue sea fuse block and 120a breaker upfront. Gotta play a lil Tetris to see what will work. Totally understand where your coming from, appreciate it! It’s always good to have another set of eyes notice something.

 

Glad i could help. There is a smallish (M6?) bolt down in the engine bay maybe 8-10 inches below the elevation of that tray. Should be roughly in line with the front mounting bolt on the fender. That is the one the power tray uses as support, and it is rock solid.

You can see where it goes in this picture:


Looks like somebody had a similar idea to you as well:

 

Oof

 

Where'd you get the switch and how hard was it to access that slot? That's exactly where'd id like to put mine.

 

Fits in there perfect, measurements were dead nuts! Except the little square to access the fuse panel, kinda over measured. I’ll probably cut it off. All in all it’s starting off pretty good! IM thinking of fab’n a leg to go right by the brake master cylinder cuz it’s sitting on the sensor right now.

 

Got the switch and wiring harness from Toyota. You have to modify the switch wiring harness to work with a light bar but it’s super easy to do.

Switch -

$58 PT297-35070-AS Auxiliary Driving Light Switch

PT297-35070-AS
Harness -

$36 PT297-35070-SH Lamp Wire Harness

PT297-35070-SH

I paid $45 for the switch and $30 for the harness

If you go this route And have questions PM me and I’ll help you out.

 

Dang... Not sure I like it that much more than some of the other switches. How'd you access the blank to get it wired? Were you able to do it via the fuse panel door or did you have to disassemble the dash?

 

@Gunshot-6A After seeing that picture, I almost want to make a new piece going into the engine instead of back to the firewall. I like that idea of the comp/fuse setup. Thanks!

 

I had a “Toyota” push button switch in there but didn’t like how the back light colors didn’t match my other switches. To others it might not be an issue but it bugged the hell outta me. I used a pick tool to get the blank switch out. From there I was able to maneuver the wires into place with the fuse panel door off. There’s plenty of room back there to work with.

 

I've seen a review online where the plastic coating on the cable started rubbing/breaking off. Just so you're aware. I wouldn't mind adding this myself.
I haven't encountered a work-around yet, but perhaps there is one. I saw the other day that ARB is starting to make these for vehicles down under, but I don't know if they'll support Tacomas.

 

I'm going to wait and see what the verdict is on how much weight the EZ-Down can support by itself. I may try just removing the cable and rely on the EZ.

 

Decked Bed liner installed

 

I couldn’t justify the cost for a simple mounting plate for an extra fuse panel so I made my own out of some scrap I had in the garage. $0. It’s not perfect but good enough for me!

 

For everyone that was asking about my double cab overhead MOLLE rack that I posted in here... here's the thread that I posted about it last night.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/og-fabrication-overhead-molle-rack.558969/#post-18258807

 

I am pretty sure everyone would buy it. The Uni Filter mod would become THE delete mod.

I have a feeling (from what I have read this thing actually does for the engine) that a delete causes the O2 sensors to start reading way richer since there is less non com-busted air being forced into the exhaust so the engine leans out trying to compensate. Then we full circle back to what white lightning said.

But this is just my speculation, I also think it is along the same lines VW did with their computers when they were on the emissions dynos.

 

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE turn that budwiser bottle into your lid for the dot3 overflow. That sticking out the engine bay would look sweeeeeet.

 

I could see that being possible. My hope is the ovtune could recalibrate everything so all would be safe in the afr department.

 

It has to be a computer thing somewhere, which means it can be tuned out.
I have a hard time believing its something mechanical since engines have been running without something like this since their inception.

I will admit the WHIIIIZZZZ you can hear *edit* with the UniFilter added *edit* when you shut the truck off kinda sounds cool for the half a second it runs after shutdown.

 

Neither could I. Have the resources from work and a lot of time on my hands.