The Lair

No, it’s not gas capable nor can I change polarity. And I agree that I think wire speed is too fast. I also need to mess with my stick out and angle. All these problems started happening trying to weld the 14 gauge sheet metal to the tube doors, so maybe it’s just a difficult thing to weld into that gap between the round tube and sheet metal.

 

I have these. Great radios.

 

It’s definitely not the amps. I have 4 settings and I’m on #3. I’ve welded 3/16” together on this setting. Right now I’m just welding 14 gauge to 1/8” wall round tubing. And the wire is literally brand new. Just opened it today. And it did it with my old roll before it ran out.

I think it’s mostly just my wire speed

 

I was speaking of mostly steel. But you are right TIG usually is straight argon and I've heard of some guys using straight argon in MIG for certain types of specialized welding.

 

Randy, are you working nights again or just up cruising the forum?

 

Acetylene tank will not work. Different valve base and lower pressure rating.

 

I was just awake since I’ve been off the past couple of days. I go back to work tomorrow.

 

I have an old flux core welder with the two switches for 4 heat settings bullshit.
Seriously, go get a real welder instead if wasting your time trying to make that junk work. You will just end up annoyed and frustrated

 

Man I’m already there. This thing’s pissing me off. I’ll replace it soon enough.

 

Do it! Gas welds are pretty welds

 

One day! Much lower on my priority list. Next up is a locker I would like one before the next wheeling trip at the end of August.

 

Re gear as well?
That seems like a do-able time frame. I'd like to have one as well before the winter.

 

No, no regear. I’m not that ballin where I can go drop $2,200 on gears and a rear arb.

Since my truck isn’t a DD, I’ll just go lunch box locker and install it myself. Only $400! And if I hate it I’ll just take it back out.

Though arb and regear is the eventual plan.

 

What size are your new tires #randyfab?

How much less surgery is it with your tires vs 35’s?

 

They’re 295/70r17, or 33.4”x11.6”. 1” smaller diameter than most 35s when comparing manufacturer specs, hence why I call them 34s

I removed my coilover and used a floor jack to shove it up to full bump, lock to lock.

I had to do an aggressive cmc (I boxed mine), hammer the pinch weld super flat, hammer back the firewall a bit in places, and trim the lower corner of my fenders and flare.

When stuffed, it just barely clears the fender up top, so any bigger and you’ll be cutting fenders.

10/10 would recommend this size if you want a big beefy tire with minimal cutting/rubbing compared to 35s

 

I think I’ll go this route. Don’t want to cut fenders. Would I need wheel spacers if I use my new to me FJ Steelies?

 

I’m not sure. What’s the back spacing on those? And you’ll have to cut a little fender, but not nearly as much.

Plus some problems could likely be avoided with more caster. I’m only running 2.6° IIRC

 

Just buy the ring and pinion and learn how to set them correctly. That way we can all follow suit and just come to #RandyFab for regears and BLO time.

 

Heck no! You need r&p front and rear, install kits for both and the locker. That’s still like $1800, plus is need new tools.

 

I could live with a little fender surgery. I run 3.5 Deg caster.

I can’t find the backspacing specs anywhere. Do your interwebz search magic please.