Help ASAP! Stuck in 4WD!

No the whirring occurs regardless of movement. Even just standing-N into R or D it makes that noise. I tried rolling 4H to 2WD and it just blinks. I can get it into 4L no problem, coming back out to 4H while standing to avoid the noise requires power-off, knob to 4H, power on, D, but it just stays in it, never makes it to 2WD, endlessly blinks.

 

Not many options (read NONE) for a mid size truck with a stick shift.
I am fixing my 93 with manual shifters to enjoy the reliability

 

I don’t know about the third gen trucks, but they are presumably similar to the second. My second gen had the t-case actuator crap out and you could get it into 4wd high/low range by taking a cover off and spinning some plastic gear on the back of the tcase. You could try that and see if it gets you out of 4wd or just pop the front drIveshaft off.

 

I mean that could have caused the initial problem.

 

May have somehow, but I followed the steps to the word, literally had my gal reading it to me shot-gun as I rarely use it. We both have been wtf-ing it since then.

 

When moving from 4Lo to 4Hi or from 4Hi to 4Lo, you must be in Neutral or Park, and the wheels must not be spinning at all. If you're rolling, it can cause issues.

 

Lets say there’s an issue somehow, range of transfer case is spaghetti to actuator just stuck, regardless that I did everything per manual, if it gets to a dealer, how near or far am I from them just getting it into 2WD so I can continue my trip? Can they just unhinge the damn thing?

 

from his signature --looks like he drives 2!!??

 

That's what many have already said in this thread... remove your front driveshaft. That makes it a 2WD.

 

I wonder if this happens to MT Tacomas.

 

If you need to, you can manually (electrically override) the front ADD actuator to disengage, which means the truck will act like it is in 2wd.

You get to the front ADD connector (6 pins), and apply about 4 or 5 volts to pin 1 and 2. (I dont recall which way is positive and negative.

Note, this runs the actuator past it's intended range of motion and causes open circuits on the feedback pots, so when you are done using the override, run the actuator back into a mid position.

 

If you did damage the transfer case when first trying to disengage 4L, then you'll need to get it replaced. I doubt that would be a quick job at a dealer. Probably looking at a few days...

 

A dealer would just do that? This is a lease with only 4k, I’m not touching it, it’d entirely be a tech.

 

I had the exact same thing happen to my 2017 TRD OR. Toyota ended up replacing the actuator and two forks in the transfer case. The parts had to be ordered, so the job took about a week and a half.

 

Doesn't Toyota have a 24 hr roadside assistance as part of your warranty program?

Let them come and get it. And provide you a loaner while they fix it.

If they tell you it's going to be a while, continue on with your trip and come back and get it later.

Or ask them to remove the front shaft, give you paperwork, and let your home dealer complete the repair later. (Your home dealer might want to see the paperwork just to know that you didn't attempt the repair)

 

if all that is worth doing major damage to your truck you have your answer.

the adult thing to do is get the problem addressed and then move forward with your plans.

 

Mega update! : after a good night’s rest (both me and the truck) I sauntered out to it with phone in hand ready to call for a tow, fired it up, turned it to 2WD, threw it in gear, let off the brake down the drive (drumroll) the light went out and it’s back in 2!! I wanted to do donuts!

I’m still taking her in but of it’s own volition this time, I want assurance from Toyota that there’s not something else, plus I don’t have the guts to move it back out of 2 til then.

 

That's good news!

 

Just needed a hard reboot!

 

ADD got wet and need time to dry out.