Buyobuyo's Build Thread

I'll prepay, just let me know if you're even interested! I dont want to take away from your projects so be honest with me lol

 

I'll whip you up a set. Do you want me to provide bolts as well or are you good sourcing them yourself? Are you currently running any spacers on your carrier bearing? If you're running spacers, do you know how thick they are? I can add to what I made my spacers at to account for the spacers.

 

I think mine is spaced like a quarter inch? What's yours at?

I can source bolts here, no problem. Save on shipping weight

 

I had no spacers on my factory bearing since I'm on the stock rear suspension. My spacers to put the new bearing in the same place are 2.25", so I would make yours 2.5".

 

That, sounds devine

 

Are you regearing with 315/70?

 

Eventually. A complete 3rd member from ECGS with gears and Detroit TruTrac is over $1600. The idea of swapping the whole rear axle to a custom axle that's wider to match the front has crossed my mind as well, but that's around $5000.

 

I would be curious to see how your results might be with that route. I plan to keep my rear stock width as it helps in turning having an offset width in the rear.

 

Fuck yeah. A little thought and planning, and I was able to fashion a tool to bend my reservoir hose fitting. No rubber mallet/bfh required. @JT@Bajakits

Used a couple of metal bars, spacers, and 10-32 bolts/nuts. Ground the bars to contour them for room to move and not hang up, and drilled a new hole to get the spacing that I needed.



Here's the end result.

 

Nicely done man but still seems ridiculous to me dropping that much money on a kit and it seems most of these boxed UCA have this issue. I love the boxed look though as i have The dirt king/dsm UCA but no resi yet. Hopefully i have no issues when i get ADS fronts.

 

Yeah. I've seen a number of the LT guys post with hose rubbing.

Hopefully, you don't have the same issue. If you do though I've got the fix, and you're welcome to borrow it. Or I can come bend it for you.

 

Nice man, looks like it got some good direction from that piece.

 

No more baja kits stuff for me. Learned my lesson

 

What issue(s) did you have?

 

Definitely man I will hit you up.

 

Well aside from paying far too much for what I got, I waited over 4 months for a final part of the rear spring under kit I purchased.

There's more to it, but for the sake of saving face, I will leave it at that.

 

A big thanks to @LocoLocal for coming out yesterday to help with starting to figure out installing the fiberglass bedsides. We got the bed shifted back and the driver's side bedside off relatively quickly. Only broke the gas cap.

We got the front side of the bedside marked, drilled and bolted on and moved on to the rear. At this point we realized that all of the factory attachment points are integrated into the bedside. The two bolts at the top of the tailgate channel, the tailgate latch, and cable hanger all thread into nuts welded to the bedside. There's also a small gap at the rear between the bed and the fiberglass where the last bedrail bolt would go. It might suck in when a bolt is seated. I'd prefer to figure out a way to make it flush before the bolt goes in, so that will take some thought.

We started running out of daylight, so I decided to throw the stock fender back on. Normally I would have left it to keep messing with it, but I can't have the truck non-drivable for weeks like when I did the front fenders because I'm dropping the truck off to get the rear suspension done on Monday.

 

May not be a bad idea to get the fuel neck extended if you can before Monday. Def sick to see this is getting ready for the next level!

 

I've already got the part to extend it. Don't need to extend it though until I get the bedsides on.

 

Are you doing the bedsides after the rear gets installed?