Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

This is why I love this forum, learn new things everyday. So maybe you can help me with another question. I did the big 3 a while back. I used 0 for that too but it isnt fused between alt. positive and batt. positive like I think it should be. What do you recommend, fuse or circuit breaker? What amperage would be correct? And if fuse, is one type better than another? As in ANL, MIDI, ect...

 

The factory had a 100A fuse in the main box for the alternator. I'd personally consider putting one back in if you bypassed it. Strictly speaking since you upgraded from 6 ga (which is what I think the stock wire was) to a 0 ga there's really no way for the alternator to source enough current to risk melting the wire. However going the other way, the battery could if the alternator shorted. Also if the wire was cut or grounded a 100A fuse may protect the alternator from burning out, although I doubt that's why it was there stock since it's at the wrong end for that. It's probably there to make sure the battery is fused.

Whether you use a fuse or breaker is your choice. I prefer fuses for reliability just because breakers can fail due to temperatures and vibration. If you do use a breaker the typical marine types you see are fine. As for fuses, I've been using the MRBF mostly but ANL, Maxi, Mega are all fine, too. It's about space and orientation when trying to fit any of them. There's a lot to consider with a protection device, so if it's something you're interested in I can explain that more, sizing, type, etc.

 

Hmm considering it's under the hood I will go with a fuse then. In addition to a fuse at the batt, I have a circuit breaker in the cab for my main power line to my amps but the engine bay is a much more harsh environment. I have two fuse blocks I installed and one is MIDI. Seems like itd be more convenient to use the same style vs carrying around yet another type. Ive already got MIDI and mini as well as anl and the mini low profile that came with stock wiring (forgot the name). Thanks for the advice.

 

What was the install like? It seems super straight forward, just want to make sure before I pull the trigger.

 

Question. I think I have all my necessary parts but im confused on the wiring, are there any diagrams you found helpful? and I have a smart isolator but I see I need a charging relay? like the blue sea acr? trying to get some help so I don't mess this up.

Anyone? Bueller?

 

So you just pushed it? Didn't loosen the lines or bend them? Gonna kick @Red Baron, I mean get him kickstarted on this.

 

I bent them then by hand a little bit. Push, bend, repeat till desired position. Iirc there was only 1 line that I had to do that to.

Agreed. @Red Baron needs to get those 2 batteries separated. Too much weight on that side...

 

Might help if you told us what smart isolator?

 

We already ripped out that atrocity

 

Oh really..

Back to stock for now?
Glad to know it gone and he can access his oil fill again. Lol

 

I wouldn't say it's stock... but with changing the I'll once a month almost now from the driving this will be much easier on me. Good tray but needed pushed to the right a little more than it was at.

Did you get that tray off the Amazon? Cuz I been looking at this...
Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit

$142 Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit, Beige (7650-BSS)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RZNP5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XmswBbFF528F4

 

You don't need the battery switch. The SI-ACR is cheaper alone.

 

But the si dosent support the link power. That’s what the switch is for. The si says it’s rated for alt up to 120. Aren’t the tow packedge alt 140?

Personally I’d suggest the ml-acr or if ya wanna stay cheep just get a continuous duty solenoid and have it activate with key on.

Aaron, yea I got the battery tray off Amazon. And the hold down bolt from advance. Got the nut zert from ace

 

The link, self Jumpstart is silly, a good system will not use your starting battery so it won't go dead. You will never see all 140amps at the 2nd battery. I'm using an SI-ACR with no problems.

 

You’ll never use self jump until that one time the truck stays on or somthing drains the battery, even age. Can also be useful if ya have to do some long winch pulls. But over all it’s not needed most of the time.

 

@Red Baron I got those and the tool to install them.

 

Will the winch really drain the main battery that quick?

 

Only if you're Winching with the truck off. Or you're Winching up a dam
https://youtu.be/7TZTa2tgJTs

 

Depends on load. Long pulls you will use a lot of power. Some winches can pull over 400amps at full load. Your alt max output is realistically ~100A, therefor 300A is being removed from the battery. Most batteries can only sustain that load for a very short time. Then you add in the winch draws more amps as the voltage gets lower

 

Well.... Eh, it'd have to be a very tough, very long pull to worry about draining a battery.